Time to build the motor

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michformulaS

michformulaS

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Well I was planning on running the 318 through the summer but it is now puking about a quart every 50 miles on the expressway so my new motor plans are off to the races. I currently have a 340 block bored 30 over with the freeze plugs and cam bearings installed. I also have a nice set of stock rebuilt X heads I got from Outrageously Vintage this winter (in my bedroom...understanding wife). Can't have them rust!
As it stands right now its a 1968 Barracuda Fastback Formula S that has a 727 and a 3.23 gear. I don't plan on changing the gear until next year. At that time I may go to a 3.91. I only have about $3000 to spend right now and am trying to decide which way to go. I see Mancini Racing has a 340 stroker kit for about $1350 on up to their balanced, forged crank kit at just over $2000. I have also added up a cast 4.0" crank, rods and pistons and I seem to end up with a much lower number. Does anybody have any advice on what works for a car that will be rarely raced, and used for occational smokey burnouts to help relieve stress. Much better than aspirin.

HPIM0092.JPG
 
I would go with the stroker. Is your block honed already? You cant do that accurately without having pistons you will be running. It will cost more than the parts. The block needs clearancing, the windage tray is special (I think you can modify a stick one, but right is right..), and IMO the mains should be studded and align honed. The assembly needs to be internally balanced too, and with a cast crank, forged pistons, and new rods, they will need Mallory Metal, which will also add t the cost. BUT, also IMHO, it is the best engine package for a small block street car, bar none.
 
When you added up the price of the stroker separate did you add the rings and bearings that come with the kit ? The 4" cranks need chamfered bearings wich are twice as much ast standard bearing.
 
Thanks for the info on the strokers. Last time I built a motor five years ago the machine shop had asked for the pistons prior to doing all my machine work. I didn't know they had to hone the block to match the pistons. I assumed they bored the block to the correct dimensions using the torque plate and the honing was just to get the cross hatch on the cylinder walls. The block I have was bored before I got it so I will be sure to bring it in to have it checked out before I start assembling. I also didn't know about the chamfered bearings. I think I will stick with a kit from Mancini or Hughes to avoid other suprises. I see AdamR is also looking into a 4.0" crank. I will also watch what kind of advice you get on the best way to go about doing this. I think I will start putting my shopping list together this weekend and order parts next week. I currently have the stock windage tray and will probably ask for advice on how to modify it when I start assembling. Thanks again, this site is awesome.
 
I hope I can start collecting parts soon. I think Mancini has the best deal. At first I was think of tha cast crank/H beam rod kit but I think If Im going to spend $1650 on it I may as well spend the extra on the Forged crank. The Callies Dragon slayer crank/eagle H beam kit is only $2050 and come balanced.
 
I am now leaning towards the same kit. I read on some earlier posts that with the H beam rods you do not have to clearance the block as much. Also, when they refer to clearancing the block is it as simple as taking a die grinder with a carbide bit and "trimming" out material until the corner of the connecting rod clears the block as you spin the crank? How much clearance do you need?
 
Yup thats what needs to be done.

heres were the eagle H beams will hit.
rodbolt.jpg


This is all that needs to be ground out though.
cylnotch.jpg
 
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