Tips and Pics of custom headers

[peelo57]

I have some cheap hookers on my 318 duster.
i have ps and pb so its really crappy on driver side.

passanger side fitted nicely.

My plan is to cut driver side header in pieces and build custom one from parts.

I have to use some cut angles, but no more thighter than 20"degrees.
those will brobably hurt some flow but my old header was so dented that it can't be so bad

 

[ProStocker273]

Made some progress on the passenger side

 

[67 prostreet gt]

540 big block with a f2 procharger in a 68 power wagon

Tips that I learned from the guy who built these headers

Clean

Double clean

Check gaps

It's just tubing dont be afraid to start over

Get the tube lengths as close as same as u can

Tig is better for show pieces

Have fun and make them look the way u want them too

Posted via Topify using iPhone/iPad

 

[67 prostreet gt]

Here's the truck that these are in you can see how far by hey tuck up into the truck and the motor is 15 inches back!!!!

Posted via Topify using iPhone/iPad

 

[ProStocker273]

Thanks for the pics but this is for the early a's

 

[ProStocker273]

Still have some finally welding to do on the passenger side but waiting to get the mig back from the shop. I may extend the passenger side header primaries another 4-6" so its similar length to the drive side. Got started on the drivers side number 3 and 5 tubes. Cylinder 1 is going to have a slip fit connector and the flange cut to make removal easy. From where I'm at it looks like the starter will have to be removed and the driver side motor mount loose to get the header in and out.

 

[ProStocker273]

Here is pic's of the start of the drivers side. Please ignore my dirty motor and engine bay as I was fighting a valve cover leak while back.

 

[ProStocker273]

One more pic

 

[johnson1550]

I believe Tubular Automotive still produces make your own kits in any size you want. The kit consists of flanges, all the bends you would need and collectors in several different sizes for your outlet. They also offer an adapter plate set up that consists of a flange plate that bolts to your stock bolt pattern and an outer plate that spreads them so that you can use round tubes into the flange. You may want to seperate the flanges into 3 pieces so that they are easier to install. They also produce a header that fits this application. I believe the part number is a TDR-8. They are in Rockland Ma. 617-878-9875

 

[Abodybomber]

Some seriously nice work,on this thread....

 

[63 MorePar]

Looking good man! Good-n-tight! :glasses7:

 

[ProStocker273]

Thanks. Made some more progress on drives side last nite. Headed back to do some more work shortly. Will post up some more pics.

 

[pishta]

My 67 Hooker race header adaptation is looking like yours. I was able to take 3-5 down between the steering box and block like yours too. Its only the #1 that will come back and down to keep it a "drop in" header (if you remove the steering box and torsion bar!) But how hot will the steering box get if the M/C got 700? Might have a thin shield for that too.

 

[ProStocker273]

I'm planning on coating the headers and going with a header wrap too. But I'm not sure there's room for a shield on the steering box. I have a 1/4" of room at the tightest spot so it would have to be pretty form fitting.

 

[63 MorePar]

I would think there is a bit more air flow lower around the steering gear than above the pipes near the master but very good point pishta. The box mounted to the frame and packed with grease should dissipate heat well, at least better than my master sitting right above my pipes. I will have to point the temp gun at mine next road trip. I tried the header wrap and hated the look. After all the time spent fabin the pipes and having them high temp powder coated, I hated to cover them up. :glasses7:

 

[ProStocker273]

I think anybody that installed tti headers in a early a is probably not gonna like the pics of how easy it is to install the driver side header. Made good progress today. Number 3/5 tubes ran welded and flange cut. Cylinder 1 & 7 are gonna have slip fit connectors. All you have to do is unbolt the flange and remove the starter and the 3 &5 tubes slide out super easy and 1 & 7 come strait up between the torsion bar and frame. I'll post up progress pics tomorrow morning.

 

[ProStocker273]

Here's a few pics. Originally I was gonna have headers pointed down so if I wanted to run open headers they would be pointed down. But not really possible on the drivers side. So the drivers side is a full length header which means that mid length passenger side is gonna get the tubes extended so they are aiming back instead of diagonally and down. I'm pretty happy about how easy it is to get the driver side header in and out.

 

[ntsqd]

Dump the header wrap idea. Do something else like heat shields and insulation where needed. The wrap will trap any errant oil and become a fire hazard. A friend almost lost his '69 Gran Prix to an ATF leak that hit the header wrap.

 

[MoparDaddy]

Dump the header wrap idea. Do something else like heat shields and insulation where needed. The wrap will trap any errant oil and become a fire hazard. A friend almost lost his '69 Gran Prix to an ATF leak that hit the header wrap.

not to mention moisture. The headers will rot in no time

 

[ProStocker273]

My car gets stored in my shop and because of the tunnel ram is not driven in the rain. I've read every thread on here about header wrap and I have not seen very many positive things about header wrap. If you only race your rig and not daily it will last longer
Ive read it keeps too much heat in the tube which is good for getting exhaust out but the heat can mess the tubes up. If the coating I have put on holds the heat good I'll go without. Otherwise I'll just use it in the few areas that I can't get my shields in. Lots of guys with bikes and rat rods running wrap without problems.

 

[ProStocker273]

Okay back to the headers. I've been working 12-13 hour days at work so havent been able to get much done until today. Got number one cylinder tube fit up and tacked and started on cylinder seven.

Here is a few pics of where I got the tubes going. :cheers:

 

[63 MorePar]

Lookin good! So your going to use a slip fit collector I assume so you can remove them when needed? Mine are definitely multi-piece. I built mine with the mini starter installed. I don't have to remove the starter to install the d/s header but I have not tried to remove the starter with the header installed. It will be real close getting it out and #7 is a slip fit if needed, like yours. Same as 3 & 5. More than one way to skin a cat!
Keep up the good work and updates! :glasses7:
Larry

 

[ProStocker273]

Yeah front and back cylinder will be slip fit and with cut Flange and starter will have to be out to remove the two center pipes from the bottom. I'll have some more progress pics tonight.

 

[ProStocker273]

Well got the driver side tubes all tacked and ran. Just have to finish welding flanges and couple tubes then on to attaching collectors. The slip fit connectors we made worked out great.

 

[valle6062]

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