Tool for making clean ground connections

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hotrod swinger

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In another thread I saw a member comment on a tool you use with your drill to make nice clean ground connections instead of scraping the paint with a screwdriver. Can’t remember what it was called and can’t find one online. Can anybody point me in the right direction?
 
Don’t scrape the paint, it will just rust.

how many auto manufactures scrape the paint under grounded pieces? None do it and we shouldn’t either.

The grounding is completed under the head of the bolt and through the threads of the bolt into the metal.

before you click the red X or call BS on this, how does all the brand new cars operate without. The paint cpscraped off the firewall? They even have a warranty and most make it through that warranty with no problems.
 
Don’t scrape the paint, it will just rust.

how many auto manufactures scrape the paint under grounded pieces? None do it and we shouldn’t either.

The grounding is completed under the head of the bolt and through the threads of the bolt into the metal.

before you click the red X or call BS on this, how does all the brand new cars operate without. The paint cpscraped off the firewall? They even have a warranty and most make it through that warranty with no problems.
Nonsense. They have either star lock washers which "bite" or in the case of more modern cars, the wire eyelet itself is a form of a star washer. The threads of the bolt don't do anything.

Not only that but the original cars we speak of on here, the 60's and 70's DID and DO have grounding problems because of the methods used. The only reason "they got by" so well is the lack, in most cases, of any or much electronics

If you are worried about rust, use paint or de--ox
 
Nonsense. They have either star lock washers which "bite" or in the case of more modern cars, the wire eyelet itself is a form of a star washer. The threads of the bolt don't do anything.

Not only that but the original cars we speak of on here, the 60's and 70's DID and DO have grounding problems because of the methods used. The only reason "they got by" so well is the lack, in most cases, of any or much electronics

If you are worried about rust, use paint or de--ox
I agree! your thread is nonsense. The bolt threads don’t do anything? They do everything!

manual transmission mopars have the bellhousing factory painted With the engine. So how does the starter get grounded if the bolt threads don’t do it?
 
I also use grease on my connections and periodically spray my grounding points with lubricant to prevent rust.
 
I agree! your thread is nonsense. The bolt threads don’t do anything? They do everything!

manual transmission mopars have the bellhousing factory painted With the engine. So how does the starter get grounded if the bolt threads don’t do it?

Maybe the entire edge that the bellhousing contacts the engine?
 
I agree! your thread is nonsense. The bolt threads don’t do anything? They do everything!

manual transmission mopars have the bellhousing factory painted With the engine. So how does the starter get grounded if the bolt threads don’t do it?
Bolt threads may contact the bolt IN A BLOCK but what about sheet metal? We are talking about grounding in general. The CONTACT with the ground lug/ eyelet on the wire end must make contact with the bolt HEAD and with the SURFACE to which it is attached, whether firewall or engine block.
 
Thing about factory grounds is manufacturers never apply much paint on any non-exterior surface... On most restored cars engine compartments and interior surfaces get a full on paint job, not just a misting of color... I've restored allot of cars & worked on allot more restored cars... Grounds can definitely be a problem.. Yes star washers & terminals with teeth help but sometimes you need to get under the paint...
 
I have seen star washers, I have seen U clips that have piercing points.

I agree with 67dart273 that our old cars were less than steller in the grounding department. But they also have mostly survived for 50+ years.

I ABSOLUTLY agree the there is no reason to scrape paint off and I would never do it.

As for bolt or screw threads creating a ground path, they absolutely do. Most if not all, screws onto sheet metal were punched holes that left a flange and a smaller ID hole than the screw OD. The screw cuts the threads and absolutely is metal to metal.

Just like if you put a reasonable amount of Teflon tape on a sensor and screw it in it makes metal to metal contact.
 
Bolt threads may contact the bolt IN A BLOCK but what about sheet metal? We are talking about grounding in general. The CONTACT with the ground lug/ eyelet on the wire end must make contact with the bolt HEAD and with the SURFACE to which it is attached, whether firewall or engine block.
How do those bolts in the sheet metal firewall get tight? Because the threads are holding, and grounding.

Now if the bolt is not tight the grounding lug/eyelet won’t make any better connection on the front than sanding the paint off the firewall behind it. It needs to be tight either way. LOL

THINK folks, it doesn’t cost you anything.
 
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Fortunately anybody else who has the same question and reads this thread will have their answer in the first couple of posts lol
 
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