Top ring Installation

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Yeah I think I'll take the first set back, it's the only one that was different when comparing three different sets of rings.

And that site is pretty cool, thanks! But I could probably have been a bit more accurate when I was measuring but the rings are visibly different widths. So there is a difference. I just measured again and got the same result.
 
DartVadar said:
Hey! Now that's not very nice! Lol.

But I used the new pack of rings anyways, just gives me piece of mind. Rings are gapped, and the right orientation, so everything is good to go now!
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You have them in upside down now.... LOL! :D
 
FM probably has engineering drawings of your rings or specs, cross check them. It is possible that you got the wrong rings in the right box, happens when someone returns them and they get restocked. I special ordered 4 boxes of same part number UCA bushings, 3 were correct, one box had a body plug in it!
 
pishta said:
FM probably has engineering drawings of your rings or specs, cross check them. It is possible that you got the wrong rings in the right box, happens when someone returns them and they get restocked. I special ordered 4 boxes of same part number UCA bushings, 3 were correct, one box had a body plug in it!
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Or for someone at the factory to mis-place them and they get put in the wrong package...
 
krazykuda said:
You have them in upside down now.... LOL! :D
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To ensure I didn't I took a picture of all the Pistons tops with the rings so I could see the dots! When everything is installed I'll know they were right! Lol de-burred and cleaned each ring too, so everything is nice and clean.
 
krazykuda said:
Or for someone at the factory to mis-place them and they get put in the wrong package...
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It almost looks like a second ring was used in place of the top ring, they were the same beside the moly face, but I'll take that original box back as it won't be used.
 
DartVadar said:
It almost looks like a second ring was used in place of the top ring, they were the same beside the moly face, but I'll take that original box back as it won't be used.
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I worked in a factory. Believe me, it doesn't take much for someone to put the rings where they aren't supposed to, and they get into the wrong package/machine.... :banghead:
 
I guess I'm kinda hijacking my own thread here, but i have a question about the camshaft thrust plate.

I was looking at the "how to assemble the front of a small block" thread and noticed that mine was a bit different. I have the oil drip tab and three solid bolts, there isn't a hole in the top left bolt. And it never had an oil slinger on the crank. I ran the motor like that before without any issue, but should I either drill a hole through a bolt, or get a new one, and add an oil slinger to the crank? I out it together exactly how it was stock, was the same way with another 318 I took apart.

Why is it different than the "how to assemble a small block" thread? The service manual I have shows it with a solid bolt. And no slinger.
 
DartVadar said:
I guess I'm kinda hijacking my own thread here, but i have a question about the camshaft thrust plate.

I was looking at the "how to assemble the front of a small block" thread and noticed that mine was a bit different. I have the oil drip tab and three solid bolts, there isn't a hole in the top left bolt. And it never had an oil slinger on the crank. I ran the motor like that before without any issue, but should I either drill a hole through a bolt, or get a new one, and add an oil slinger to the crank? I out it together exactly how it was stock, was the same way with another 318 I took apart.

Why is it different than the "how to assemble a small block" thread? The service manual I have shows it with a solid bolt. And no slinger.
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Run the oil slinger, they are cheap and worth the cost vs benefit.

http://www.manciniracing.com/oilslinger.html


Now for the camshaft thrust plate bolts.


1. Best is to drill a hole in the top pass bolt like the factory original. Or find an original style bolt.

2. Next best is to leave that top pass side hole open. I would recommend then drilling out the bottom driver's side camshaft thrust plate hole, so you can make the tab hook in there and also use the bolt in that hole.

3. Or you can just leave the top pass bolt out and not use the drip tab, and then use the three remaining bolts in the trust plate.



I would recommend 1 & 2 first, then #3....
 
krazykuda said:
Run the oil slinger, they are cheap and worth the cost vs benefit.

http://www.manciniracing.com/oilslinger.html


Now for the camshaft thrust plate bolts.


1. Best is to drill a hole in the top pass bolt like the factory original. Or find an original style bolt.

2. Next best is to leave that top pass side hole open. I would recommend then drilling out the bottom driver's side camshaft thrust plate hole, so you can make the tab hook in there and also use the bolt in that hole.

3. Or you can just leave the top pass bolt out and not use the drip tab, and then use the three remaining bolts in the trust plate.



I would recommend 1 & 2 first, then #3....
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Ill have to order an oil slinger. And I think I will try and drill a hole in the bolt, what size of hole is it? or does that matter?
 
DartVadar said:
Ill have to order an oil slinger. And I think I will try and drill a hole in the bolt, what size of hole is it? or does that matter?
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I think that it's about 1/8", but be careful not to get too large, or you will weaken the bolt where it can break.... :banghead:

It's also a challenge to get it drilled straight and not crooked and into the threads....
 
krazykuda said:
I think that it's about 1/8", but be careful not to get too large, or you will weaken the bolt where it can break.... :banghead:

It's also a challenge to get it drilled straight and not crooked and into the threads....
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I have a few that I can use if I mess one up, but I will use a drill press and go slow and lubricate it well, if not I may be able to find a bolt already with the hole in it.
 
is it possible to have bad rings? Anything is possible. I had a rod bearing that didn't have the oil hole cut out of the halves. I used a small round file to make it work. You were paying attention and that is good when engine building. You could contact sealed power direct and run the part number by them and see what they say. In this day of outsourced parts quality is sometime job none. ( excuse the Ford Pun) LOL!
 
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