Torque Converter

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whiteeagle

whiteeagle

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Anyone ever hear of this? I pulled a 360 and 727 out of a 74 Charger. Did a quick rebuild of both. Put them into my early a body and within 10 miles my torque converter cracked.
Pulled tranny and put in a new torque converter. Within 10 miles it too cracked.

Any suggestions? it worked fine in the charger.
Thanks
 
Do you know if the converters you are using have the correct crank shaft register?
It's the button on the front side that fits into the crank end.
I seem to remember different sizes, and that would do it for sure.

It's cracking around the snout (pump drive) of the converter?

Tracy (Fishy68) does 727 rebuilds, so maybe he can think of something else.
 
I would think so, it came out a running vehicle and I used the same engine tranny that came out, Well it worked for 180000.0 miles anyway.
 
whiteeagle said:
I would think so, it came out a running vehicle and I used the same engine tranny that came out, Well it worked for 180000.0 miles anyway.
Click to expand...

Hmm,
The only other things I can think of would be a mismatch of the flexplate, or something ended up pinched between the block and bell housing.
You probably used the same flexplate though, right?

I have seen installers get a bracket or wire loom between the engine and trans on the install causing a misalignment that broke the converter, but it doesn't usually happen twice in a row.

I hope Tracy can come up with another thought on it, because I am out of ideas.

Just to be sure, it is cracking around where the polished part that goes into the trans meets the converter shell, right?

Hey I just noticed you live in AZ.
I'm in Prescott, where are you? (if you don't mind my asking)
 
Not enough details. Where are they cracking? What do they look like?

Any evident damage to the engine, crank, or flexplate?

Have you carefully checked for bell / rear of engine damage, both to block and crank?

The crank snout issue is large enough that you'd never get a late converter bolted to an early engine.

And last, this could be an engine/ bell misalignment, AKA offset dowel pins. I don't know how you would do this on an auto without tearing the case down
 
67Dart273 said:
Not enough details. Where are they cracking? What do they look like?

Any evident damage to the engine, crank, or flexplate?

Have you carefully checked for bell / rear of engine damage, both to block and crank?

The crank snout issue is large enough that you'd never get a late converter bolted to an early engine.

And last, this could be an engine/ bell misalignment, AKA offset dowel pins. I don't know how you would do this on an auto without tearing the case down
Click to expand...

Apparently it's the same engine and trans that were already together before.
I wanted to know where it cracked also, because it makes big difference but I could really only imagine it cracking around the hub from something being misaligned.

Leaving the bushing out of the trans pump would do it, but what are the chances of that happening?
Plus it would leak like crazy when started.

I wonder if the rebuilt trans got a new pump that might be mis machined.
 
whiteeagle said:
I was just thinking to myself, what if the driveline did not get shortened enough
Click to expand...

It'd wipe the trans. but doubt it'd affect the converter. Let us know when you find out exactly what cracked on the converter. If it cracked the neck twice in that short of time there's a serious misalignment like the others said. And if it's that far out of alignment I'd think it'd take out the front pump bushing. Ask the shop if they checked it after the 1st converter cracked. If they didn't that may be the reason the second converter cracked
 
fishy68 said:
It'd wipe the trans. but doubt it'd affect the converter. Let us know when you find out exactly what cracked on the converter. If it cracked the neck twice in that short of time there's a serious misalignment like the others said. And if it's that far out of alignment I'd think it'd take out the front pump bushing. Ask the shop if they checked it after the 1st converter cracked. If they didn't that may be the reason the second converter cracked
Click to expand...


Yep

I'd be willing to bet that the pump bushing walked out on the first converter because it wasn't staked in.
Then it wasn't checked and did it to the second converter.
Usually when a bushing walks out it comes out the front pushing the seal lip away from the neck of the converter causing a huge leak.
If it breaks the converter then people tend to think it was just a bad weld on the converter and may not check the pump.
People that really know what they are doing would check it, but we see how that goes on almoat a daily basis these days.

If it's the same engine, same flex plate and the same trans, and also the same pump what else is there to cause it?
(Pump bushing)

I really only mention the pump because it is possible for parts to get machined off center.
 
i had a converter break at the snout awhile back.........it was because it was cold here, and i used to start the car in park, so the pump isn't charging the converter, i put the car in reverse and the high pressure that reverse has and the car not warmed up on a cold day cracked the snout............started leaking bad. my converter guy told me this after he fixed the converter. he said to start it in neutral.......so the pumps charging the converter........
higgs
 
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