Torquing the Flex Plate

-
D

DustyRoads

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2012
Messages
160
Reaction score
10
Location
Hernando Beach, FL
1972 Duster with a 1967 225 and a 1974 904 automatic.

After 300 miles of local running on the newly rebuilt engine and trans, I took the car on a 400-mile inaugural long-distance run. 300 miles in, two of the flex plate bolts loosened up, sounding like a fork in a garbage disposal. Easy enough to fix in a Washington DC parking garage, but I noticed that I can't fit a socket wrench or a torque wrench in the small space between the oil pan and the flex plate to properly torque the bolts. What have you guys used to torque these bolts? I can use the "calibrated arm" and an open-end wrench, but was wondering if there was something a little more technically correct. Also, do you use loctite? Which color?

Before you ask, I know it's not a crank pilot hole issue between the early engine and the late transmission. I special-ordered a modified torque convertor from Hughes that had the small snout (to mate with the early engine) but the right spline count to mate with the late transmission.
 
blue Loctite is med and red is high,generally you want to use blue on everything,red will be just harder to get out,both works good
 
I had flex plate bolts come loose more than once,even using locktight on the threads.I quit using stock flex plates many years ago.I use TCI flex plates and have never had another issue with bolts coming loose.
 
OK; thanks everybody. With only about 25 ft-lbs of torque, I'll go with hand-torquing and blue loctite while I locate one of those extension buggers.
 
Usually I can just go until the wrench slips or the head snaps off. Either way, when I see blood, it's tight enough.
 
..and you all know that a quality wrench is sized to be uncomfortable if you overtighten,
so no gloves allowed.
 
You did say that this is a slant six. If you want you can remove the starter and you have a clean straight shot to the flex plate bolts.Just one at a time. Blue loctite and you will be good to go.
 
Just a shot of the same converter as yours.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1910.jpg
    69.2 KB · Views: 188
Darter6 said:
You did say that this is a slant six. If you want you can remove the starter and you have a clean straight shot to the flex plate bolts.Just one at a time. Blue loctite and you will be good to go.
Click to expand...

Damn. A bachelor's degree in Applied Physics, a Masters in International Affairs...and I can still be really stupid. Plus I won't have to lay down on 20-degree concrete.

At least I was smart enough to put in a mini-starter.
 
DustyRoads said:
Damn. A bachelor's degree in Applied Physics, a Masters in International Affairs...and I can still be really stupid. Plus I won't have to lay down on 20-degree concrete.

At least I was smart enough to put in a mini-starter.
Click to expand...

haha! i use blue on stock stuff and Red on anything not stock... i went thru three loosenings i went red and never had an issue since...

but yea yank the starter and go to work
 
It helps a lot if you sacrifice one wrench and grind the shoulder flat on the side of the box end.
They slip off a lot less when tightening shallow headed bolts.
Most wrenches have a taper on the inside edge of the hex that makes it where you can't get ahold of the whole bolt head.
 

Attachments

  • box.jpg
    15.4 KB · Views: 186
I do the same as trailbeast with sockets too. One thing that I have found out about Loctite is when it gets old in the tube sometimes it doesn't harden. A friend over on slantsix.org had the same problem. Do a test first with a nut and bolt and let it sit overnight. I no longer buy the big bottles just the small tubes.For me I just don't use it often enough. Just a thought.
 
Darter6 said:
I do the same as trailbeast with sockets too. One thing that I have found out about Loctite is when it gets old in the tube sometimes it doesn't harden. A friend over on slantsix.org had the same problem. Do a test first with a nut and bolt and let it sit overnight. I no longer buy the big bottles just the small tubes.For me I just don't use it often enough. Just a thought.
Click to expand...

I do sockets too if there isn't very much to grab onto.
Agree on the locktite too, and just go get a new small tube when I need it.
 
Use Loctite 271...it is high strength and high temp.....make sure the threads are clean and oil free.
Another thing is to have antiseize compound on the spigot of the torque convertor.
 
DustyRoads said:
Damn. A bachelor's degree in Applied Physics, a Masters in International Affairs...and I can still be really stupid.
Click to expand...
You were smart enough to buy an old Mopar and search for info here. No web when I first started working on a Dart, and I did some dumF things then. My old Mopars are much easier to work on than my 80's M-B diesels, and parts are much more available and cheap. Ex. one M-B guy tackled a tranny rebuild and found a band costs $200. New pistons are $550 each, .... Life would be even easier if we had old an Chevy or VW Bug, but Mopar is still easy.
 
This is what it nice about these fourms,letting each other know about the "Tricks of the trade" .Tips, Tricks, Anything to help make the job easier and faster.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top