Torsion Bar Boots???

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mopowers

mopowers

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Have you guys ever used polyurethane torsion bar grease boots from energy suspension or prothane? What's your take? Can you install them over the hex end of the torsion bar without splitting them? Does anyone make a rubber set that aren't $50 a pair?
 
Check on ebay for the rubber ones
 
I made my own 'rubber' ones, it's called a bike inner tube and some zip ties.
The urethane ones can suck my big toe.
 
I had a set of them that I couldn't get to fit over the ends of the torsion bars. I tried putting them in boiling water to soften them up but it didn't help enough. So then I tried to microwave them (a mistake) and they began to distort. I ended up putting my old rubber boots back on. There wasn't anything in the instructions from ENERGY SUSPENSIONS to explain how to install them.
 
I'm not too damn sure those seals are all that important. After all the LCA's don't have 'em, and the BACKS of the bars are exposed...............
 
Agreed, they aren't. There are several areas I'd rather have sealed that are way more important. Like the doors, quarters, cross-members, frame rails the list goes on.... Ain't happening though.
 
I put mine on the dash of my truck with the windows up on an 85 degree day... They got up to 162.... No go
I tried a hair dryer to soften them... No go
I tried to push them on with my shop press... It lifted off the floor.
They are cheap ($6 a pair) so I won't feel bad throwing them out

:burnout:
 
I use the polyurethane boots on mine. Drop them in boiling water for a bit and grease the heck out of the hex end of the torsion bar. Still not the easiest thing to do, but they don't tear like the rubber ones. The poly ones are pretty much the only way to go with larger diameter bars. I have a set on the 1.12" bars on my challenger. I tried to use the rubber boots on my Duster with 1.12" torsion bars, I got them on without tearing them but they're split now, don't think they were intended to work with that big of a diameter bar. It'll get poly boots the next time the bars come out.

One thing using the poly boots on larger diameter bars, make sure you grease the bar and inside of the boot really well. If the poly boot ends up dry where it's in contact with the bar it won't move again, and the poly boot is tough enough to give you grief trying to slide the bars. I had to cut one off of my Challenger when I changed out my LCA's because it wouldn't slide on the bar and it was keep the t-bar from sliding back enough to swap the LCA. Wasn't a huge deal once I realized what was going on, I just cut the boot off and installed another one when I was done. They're like $6 so no biggie. :D
 
I had them and couldn't get them on despite how much I tried stretching them with a pair of pliers. Apparently you need to boil them first.
 
:)I had a set of polyurethane seals that I couldn't get on no matter what I tried.
A friends wife put her weight on them while they were verticle w/seal at bottom.
with a little lube they popped right on!
Problem solved!
 
cudamike13 said:
:)I had a set of polyurethane seals that I couldn't get on no matter what I tried.
A friends wife put her weight on them while they were verticle w/seal at bottom.
with a little lube they popped right on!
Problem solved!
Click to expand...

You lubed your friends wife? Wicked!
 
I just use silicone spray. Started this same routine yesterday on a b-body, haven't got to the install part yet, I like to be careful not to damage the bars. I used silicone on the anti-sway bar and the bushings just went on with a minimum of trouble. You just have to look at it closely and with your minds eye, picture how it has to go and do it. The grease in the torque box and boot are important, the bar will break if they are not greased well, or can I should say. If the bars are freshly painted or at least nice and smooth you will find that helps a lot.
 
Like in post #8 grease the hex good.I install them with the bar out and up right with one end on the floor.Yes you got to push like heck but they will go over.Try wearing rubber gloves to give you a good grip on the boot.After getting the bar in place I use a cotter pin puller,or any hook type tool,starting the boot at the top of the groove at the cross member mount and with the hook, work the boot into the groove.
 
I did not have any trouble with the installing the energy suspension boots on the 1.03" bars. Greased and pulled them on. Left them out a bit to stretch and pulled the boots the final bit
 
Dfr360cuda said:
Junk
Click to expand...

Uh, why isn't there any grease in the picture?

Work fine on my car, and that's a 1.12" torsion bar...

IMG_2430.jpg
 
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Use slightly larger sockets on the end of a short extension to open them up. Start with a socket slightly larger than the opening and go up from there. Having SAE and metric helps when the sizing gets up around 1". Works great

I used silcone spray to lube the boots/sockets each time.
 
I did use grease
I soaked in boiling water too
I checked my Dakota and it doesn't have boots.
Time to click and drag... add to cart... proceed to checkout... start over

:burnout:
 
I didn't have any issue putting on my red Energy Suspension boots. Boiled them in the house, walked out across the yard to the shop and slipped them right over the hex with a little bit of grease. didn't rush or anything...Maybe ya'll with issues aren't boiling it long enough or moving it around in the water to loosen up evenly.
 
So...
When I ordered poly boots the website wasn't specific.
It was 6 bucks, I figured each but it was per pair.
So I had 2 pair
Tried again and successful.
Plus they look better.

:supz:
 
MuuMuu101 said:
I had them and couldn't get them on despite how much I tried stretching them with a pair of pliers. Apparently you need to boil them first.
Click to expand...

I heated my rubber ones for an hour in the toaster oven at 150° and stretched them on before they could cool down.

Stay below 220° F
 
So I haven't had to do this yet so if this sounds like a dumb idea feel free to let me know. why not to the bar with the boot on the bottom of it. Place it vertical on the ground and rather than using body weight put a thick rag/towel to protect the bar, hit with with a hammer? I would think it would be easier than lubing up your buddy's wife.
 
i am running urethane boots on 1.1 t bars and no issues with install.

they actually seal very well.

i was thinking of putting a pipe blocker from home depot on the back side to keep the crud out.
 
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