Torsion Bar fitment issues

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synchro66

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Just in the process of installing my new .920 Torsion Bars. Have them both fully inserted, but cant get them into the rear bracket deep enough to expose the circlip indentation ring so that I can install the wire circlips. Any thoughts??
 
Well first, they aren't fully inserted if you can't get the clips in. It's not a tight fit either, btw. You can have as much as a 1/4" between the torsion bar and the clips when the bar's all the way in. Do you have anything attached to the LCA's? Shocks, spindles, etc? If you do unhook all that stuff until it's just the LCA. Make sure the torsion bar adjuster is totally backed out. Even a little bit of tension on the bar is enough to keep it from sliding all the way in. If you gobbed a ton of grease into the socket, pull the bar and clean most of it out. If the hex ends of the torsion bars are powdercoated, scrape it off.

Note the gap here. It's not a tight fit between the bar and circlip.
img_4108-jpg.jpg
 
Have you tried using a piece of wood or fat dowel to rest on the end of the torsion bar and hammer it in... Use the wood against the torsion bar so you don't strike the torsion bar directly with metal and damage it to drive it all the way into the socket of the lower control arm...

also make sure that there is no tension on the bar when installing.... any side load or twisting can hang it up from fully seating...
 
Had the same issue with one side on mine found I needed to bring lower control arm towards front of car as it was hanging back and not allowing torsion bar to seat fully. Just make sure adjusters are backed out fully and LCA nut is loose
 
You should be able to insert or remove the bars by hand.
With the car off the ground take the adjuster screw out, but Measure it so you can put it back like you found it. Take it out by hand, not with a gun, you can strip the fine thread. Take the clip out of the other end of the T-Bar.

I use a 14 or 18 inch pipe wrench. Do not put it on the torsion bar. Never do that, you will ruin it.

If you're doing the drivers side and you are facing forward, place the open jaws of the wrench on the socket- unit that holds the front of the bar. The jaws should be open to the right. Spray around the T bar front end with penetrating oil to help it slide out.

Close the jaws down and push or pull the bottom of the pipe wrench handle to the right about an inch. The socket holding the front of the T-Bar will rotate {counter clock-wise } , moves about an inch and it will stop, hold it there.

Pull the torsion bar straight back with your other hand, you may need a rag or gloves if its slick, it should easily come right out.
Doing the passenger side, reverse the wrench position.
Open jaws facing the left.
Hope this helps.
 
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Thnaks for the replies to my query guys...I will have another go at installing them tomorrow...Im thinking it could be grease, as I loaded a fair bit in the socket. HI have the spindle removed and LCA is hanging down, with adjusters all the way out, however the track rod is still installed ..Does it have to be removed as well, or can it stay there for the installation of the Torsion Bar?
 
Thnaks for the replies to my query guys...I will have another go at installing them tomorrow...Im thinking it could be grease, as I loaded a fair bit in the socket. HI have the spindle removed and LCA is hanging down, with adjusters all the way out, however the track rod is still installed ..Does it have to be removed as well, or can it stay there for the installation of the Torsion Bar?

You can try it with the strut rods installed, but if you still find the install difficult after removing the grease I'd unbolt them. They do limit the travel of the LCA some, and even a little bit of bind can make the torsion bars very difficult to install.
 
Yeah that grease has no place to go,except to sneak past the hex, back at you. It don't like to sneak, lol. You can pound the end of the bar as earlier described, but hey, it's a lot easier at this point,IMO, to just scoop out some excess with a finger.
 
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