Torsion Bar/Ride Height Adj. Finger Rubs Frame

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racerdude5

racerdude5

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So I posted a thread about this problem some time ago when this issue first started. As the suspension would travel you would sometimes hear a "click-click". I looked under the car to see what it was and sure enough there was a shiny spot of bare metal on the end of the torsion bar finger near where the end of the adjusting bolt locates into it. And sure enough there was shiny bare metal on the frame rail as well. Well I replaced the lower control arm bushings first, that fixed it for a while. Then it came back. Got new torsion bars that were stiffer, and its been gone until recently. I just put new shocks and adjustable strut rods on and after driving about 200 miles the click is back. What is going on? Oh and also, where it has been happening there's essentially a whole in the side of the frame rail where it was crushed into by the torsion bar finger. So I need to patch that too, but one thing at a time. Also it has only ever done it on the drivers side of the car. Also since I put the new parts on I lowered the front of the car slightly.
 
I'm sorry, I can't imagine what you are talking about. I don't see any way any part of it can hit a frame rail. I think you need to provide photos.
 
Im starting to wonder if that car took a hit at one time or another. I recall your thread, and the pictures and while I was rebuilding my suspension I checked how close mine was. I could put a finger tip between the frame rail and the ear. Sorry man, I wish I knew what to tell you was wrong with it.
 
Sounds like you are (and have been) one hex off on your Torsion bar socket.

What size and brand T-bars do you have?
 
My 71 charger had/has the same problem. Originally they are very close as the suspension travels, and if the car ever took a hit over time, I think that is where the problem starts. My charger had front frame damage from a prior accident, and I just finished reassembling the car after having the frame repaired, control arm bushings replaced, and torsion bars replaced. With the heavy front end of my Charger and the biased rear springs, the drivers side bar has much more twist than the passenger side to level the car, not sure what your combo is, but with the twist of the drivers side bar it puts the adjust right in line with the frame area. A couple questions.
1. is your k member hardware the correct tapered bolts?? (the originals center the k member with a taper in the large hole in the k-member.
2. Has your car been in an accident? if so you may need to have it looked at and pulled back square.
3 you state you have a hole worn in the frame, is your lower control arm pivot stud straight? these are easily bent over time.
 
I believe the torsion bars are clocked correctly, I installed them at 30° when the lower control arm was at full droop. I'm running PST 1.03 T-Bars. The k-member has never been off the car. Yes I do believe it was in an accident once, I'm not sure of the severity but the only visual abnormality is that the inner fender isn't sitting in the channel on the top of the frame rail like it is supposed to. Everything appears very straight. And yes the lower control arm pivots appear to be straight.
 
racerdude5 said:
I believe the torsion bars are clocked correctly, I installed them at 30° when the lower control arm was at full droop. I'm running PST 1.03 T-Bars. The k-member has never been off the car. Yes I do believe it was in an accident once, I'm not sure of the severity but the only visual abnormality is that the inner fender isn't sitting in the channel on the top of the frame rail like it is supposed to. Everything appears very straight. And yes the lower control arm pivots appear to be straight.
Click to expand...

Show a picture of that area. I haven't seen any pictures for the questions you are asking here. Why not?

You need to fix this NOW and not worry about milled heads, aftermarket gauges, and other stuff.

This most probably related to the toe in/out issue you are having with this other thread: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970843414#post1970843414

How much threads are showing from the adjuster screw past the nut?

Adjuster screw should be protruding well past the bottom of LCA if the car is lowered.

Second picture is what the adjuster would look like and measure if the screw was totally unscrewed to where the socket barely lifts the adjuster finger off the nut.
 

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The adjuster nut is pertruding from the bottom of the lower control arm EXACTLY as you show above. And buddy, trust me I'd love to fix this now. But due to some family issues I don't have a place to work on my car, nor do I have the necessary tools.
 
Sounds like you broke the k-member.

Did you clean and inspect the area around the lower control arm pivot hole on the K-member when you replaced the lower control arm bushings?

Get some pictures to see what happened.
 
Alright thanks. By broke you mean the pivot hole for the lca is busted or deteriorated?
 
Here's other broken ones

attachment.php


JoeDirtEngineout001_zps17b3530f.jpg


JoeDirtEngineout002_zpsdc915e67.jpg
 
That seems to be what it is. It makes sense. That little piece that broke off would fit in between the center section and the outer surface perfectly. Can it be fixed? How do I adjust my strut rods? Anyone have a k-member for sale?
 
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