Trailer tires - what are you running?

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Also find out from Traffic and Hi-way Patrol Officers that see the devastation firsthand. Here is some common sense advice from someone with many years in the tire business and the son of a L.A. County Sheriff's Deputy with 27 years of traffic experience. The number one cause of tire failure, regardless of application, Passenger Car, OTR Truck, RV, Trailer, Motorcycle you name it, is incorrect tire pressure. Mostly underinflated. Trailer tires have a different internal cord angle designed to be towed behind a vehicle so it will track straight. Trailer tires as well as any type of trailer should never be towed faster that 55 MPH. The potential for massive, fatal accidents and vehicle damage is just not worth gambling on. Remember that there are other people on the road as well as yourselves. When stored, the tires should have the load taken off of them. This can be done by removing them or putting the vehicle on some sort of support stands. This helps to keep the tire from deforming from a round shape and sidewall cracking. Since the tire manufacturers know that trailer type tires are only used occasionally , they are not designed for high speeds or high mileage. Hence no speed ratings, and an ST tire designation. They are designed to be towed, with as much stability as possible . Tires with D.O.T. codes older than 4 years should be very carefully inspected and replaced if any doubt. Tires are cheap insurance for your vehicle, towed vehicle and your family's safety. Just because some people have been lucky and used old tires, tow at high speeds and use non trailer rated tires is no recommendation that it is ok to just use your own judgement and it will be ok. Tires are not just the black, round things that are mounted on your wheels. They are one of the most overly abused, highly technically designed components of your vehicle they must start, stop, hit road debris, potholes, steer, grip, absorb impacts and more with almost no maintenance . Always check your tire pressures cold. Always use the same pressure gauge to eliminate differences in calibration. Inspect the inside sidewalls of the tires as well as the outsides of your tires. Immediately replace any tires with any bulges, bubbles, deep/long cuts in the sidewalls or tread area. Inspect the sidewalls wherever you have any bends/damage to your rims caused by potholes or road debris. Just use common sense. Be Safe.
 
Sorry, the tires are Rainier. I have confused them with the lake I live near.
 
Agreed . Don't know if I could get my spread chocks between mine if I went to an 85 series and lost an inch of space between them. I've got a good 6 inches or more above them.

Than youd be good to run 235/85R16

Could possibly get new chocks for those sizes, or get two seperat ones
 
Than youd be good to run 235/85R16

Could possibly get new chocks for those sizes, or get two seperat ones

Do not confuse the OP with others offering opinions. That is not his trailer.
 
Ragtopfury is the op

I asked him whst size 16.

He said 235/80R16

I asked how much clerance he had.

He said approx 6” above the tire.

I told him he should be fine to run the 235/85R16 size.

I even quoted him lol
 
What about between them? Is it worth buying new chocks? Maybe.

I have 6” above the tire or more to the well but have you seen what the tires do on a 90 degree turn while backing.
 
Ragtopfury is the op

I asked him whst size 16.

He said 235/80R16

I asked how much clerance he had.

He said approx 6” above the tire.

I told him he should be fine to run the 235/85R16 size.

I even quoted him lol

My bad!
 
What about between them? Is it worth buying new chocks? Maybe.

I have 6” above the tire or more to the well but have you seen what the tires do on a 90 degree turn while backing.

They are the same width so it wont matter. The way i look at it is if for some reason you are broken down on a sunday afternoon your more likely to find a 235/85R16 than a 235/80R16
 
Interesting, I went to the site I posted and looked up the Rainier 235/80R16.

$95.00 with free shipping. They now list a speed rating of 81mph. My tires have a 75MPH rating stamp in the sidewall. What gives there?
 
Interesting, I went to the site I posted and looked up the Rainier 235/80R16.

$95.00 with free shipping. They now list a speed rating of 81mph. My tires have a 75MPH rating stamp in the sidewall. What gives there?

Either its a mis print or they have updated the rating
 
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The Hankook LT we switched to are 14 ply. Our trailers get a lot of tight turning done and I have found they hold up well.
We run some pretty heave trailers though and are on construction sites so they get abused
 
Check your local laws. LT's are not legal for use on trailers in all states. Here in De. the DOT is getting in the habit of pulling personal use trailers over.
 
This is my trailer, almost 8000#, I would never consider running an LT tire on it. I stick with tires designed for the loads that they are made to handle. There is no light truck out there even close to the weight of a large trailer.

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That's what I've always thought. Just exploring options.. Here's mine:
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I go strictly by what my tire guy recommends. He has worked at Discount Tire since we were in high school, and dated the daughter of Discount Tires founder. He also manages the #1 Discount Tire store in the nation. He knows tires up and down, front to back, and I’ve bought a LOT of tires thru him over the years. Other opinions may vary, but he has never steered me wrong.
 
On stock trailers I rn 10 ply. Keep air pressure correct is a key. On car trailer I have run it all, from car may pops to new ST trailer tires. 15 inch. I just made trip from old home of Missouri to Tx 600 mi one way with car on trailer. I called local tire store and ordered the absolute cheapest 4 of 6 ply ST tires they hade 225 15 ST, total was $239.00 Made it home great!
Last year one trip with the 500 mi trip with loaded stock trailer, I blew a good but older 10 ply. I stopped at store and replaced with a new 10 ply ST. Got home OK but later noticed it had slow leak. Had pin hole in side wall. Yep, made that way in CHINA!!!! So is life. Why expect more?
 
Loaded I am close to 14k, never scaled but the trailer empty is 11.5 as advertised. I assure we have everything and more you could ever need loaded in the rig. That’s another discussion! Go to the parents sometimes for up to 10 days and leave with full black and gray tanks and dump 200 miles up the road. LT tires will not get it done.

I am heavy footed and really wanted to get some Sailuns but my rims are not rated for 110 PSI and the extra cost to upgrade did not make sense. 80/85 PSI is the standard for most 235/80R/16.

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We have sold some sailuns at work and they seem pretty decent, yeah the psi is the limiting factor on rims. Aluminums i wouldnt run more than 80, steel rims id go maybe to 90-95 but thats pushing it. Also have to remember that tire psi increases roughly 1 psi for every 10 degrees in temperature change
 
We have sold some sailuns at work and they seem pretty decent, yeah the psi is the limiting factor on rims. Aluminums i wouldnt run more than 80, steel rims id go maybe to 90-95 but thats pushing it. Also have to remember that tire psi increases roughly 1 psi for every 10 degrees in temperature change

Agree with the PSI climb. Only way I got home on Goodyear’s once as they were 80 cold at departure and looked fine, were near 90 in August on a return trip 1/2 way home. Aired down what had not already failed as they were separating and dropped my speed. I Always take a walk around at each stop and when you see one looking a little taller pay attention cause it is close to separation! A good quality gauge is important! Fortunately I have never had a complete failure and only carcasses of steel sticking out all over.
 
I do a walk around at every fuel and food stop, as well. I'll push each tire pretty hard with the ball of my foot to make sure they are all still hard. I also feel each wheel at the hub to see if one is any hotter than another indicating a possible bearing starting to fail or stuck brakes. I've considered picking up an infrared thermometer.
 
A IR temp gun is cheap, i think lowes has some for under $20

Plus i would never run bias tires, they generate more heat and follow every imperfection in the road
 
10 years ago I was using a quality truck type, dual head pencil gauge. Only use a high quality analog dual head gauge anymore. That said, walk and touch every stop is the first and best warning. Not sure I would even feel one failing at speed and are always scanning my lower pointing mirrors for any smoke or abnormalities.
 
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