Tranny Rebuild Help 904

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72DartSwingerV8

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So I've finally come to the last part of the rebuild. I've got a 318 and 904 and looking to rebuild the transmission to stock. 72 Dodge Dart Swinger. The 318 puts out around 300 hp so nothing major there. To put it simply I know almost nothing about transmissions. I've rebuilt engines and all that stuff but never a tranny. What is the most cost-effective kit out there? Am I capable of doing it? Or should I have someone else do it? (The tranny place quoted $1850) I know this is broad but i've done some searching on here and found a lot of different suggestions. Just looking to narrow it down. Thanks
 
There are several guys doing them themselves here on the site. $1850 for a stock rebuild is like getting Raped by an Elephant.
You can do it yourself with parts under $300.00, no special tools required.
 
Get a transtar Super deluxe or Deluxe kit. 12008 comes to mind.

http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=9099

If you can rebuild an engine, you can do a 904. There's a good series on 727's on youtube, same as 904, just bigger components. I have a dvd of a 727 rebuild. Munroe TF book is good. Lots of reference material out there to do it yourself.

For $1850 I'll do it, 3 times!
 
$100? That's it? All I need is that kit? That's almost unbelievable. Transmission places are raking it in then.
 
Of course they are, that kit is nice. Download the ATSG manual, walk through it as you build, and build to tight side of factory spec, as much as possible.

[ame]http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/manuals/ATSG_Transmission_Repair/ATSG_A999_A904T.pdf[/ame]

Here is a blow up diagram of the a904

https://www.wittrans.com/Schematic.aspx?Transmission=A904

Here are some tips that have helped me:

Before you crack into it, clean up the case with a toothbrush and soapy water.

If you need to remove a bushing, cut it length wise with a hacksaw blade by hand, then drive it out with a hammer and screwdriver or chisel.

To install them, put the part in the oven on the lowest setting, and stick the bushing in the freezer for 30 mins. When your ready, lube the hole and tap the bushing in with a wood block and a hammer. If the bushing is counter sunk, grab the closest fitting socket to the OD of the bushing and drive that puppy home. No need for a press.

If you haven't put a shift kit in, I recommend it, Transgo TF-2 Seems to be the favorite.

50/50 DEX/MERC and type F Seems to be a nice mix.

One last thing: These transmissions are simple, take your time, don't rush, triple check everything before you call it done, and be easy with the lip seals, and sealing rings. And, if you can, right before your done, air test your clutch assembly if possible, PM fishy68 for picture if testing ports.

Have fun! :D
 
Some additional items that come to mind:

-rear band
-Snap Ring Plier Set
-Seal or bushing driver set
-ASTG Service Manual
-Transgo Shift Kit (optional)
-trans assembly lube
 
Here's the pressure test diagram.
[ame]http://www.letsgocomputers.com/dart/airtest.pdf[/ame]

You want to chk the front and rear clutches, and both servo apply's by putting air to the respective ports.
On the clutch tests you want to hear a nice "Thunk" when you hit it with air, but very little or no air leakage. (as long as you hear the "Thunk" they are probably fine)
Servo's are no big deal, as it is pretty obvious when they dont work right.
The clutchpacks are the biggies, because the servos can be fixed in the car.
 
you will some means to compress the front clutch pac to remove and replace the lip seals...
 
If you have a camera phone take pics as you dissassemble. Book and videos are good but sometimes they leave just a little to the imagination.
 
What about the performance parts, like extra clutches and better material clutches? Where can you get that? Same place? Thanks.
 
Thanks for all the help guys. Here are the two things I'm planning on getting. I want this tranny to be better than new. Any other weird seals I need? Also, I have the cheap Hooker headers on the 318. Is it going to be a huge pain in the *** to get the tranny out with them on? Because I refuse to put them on again, they are coming off with a saw. Or can they stay on there? If not then I'm pulling out the checkbook for the TTIs.

http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=9099&CartId=1731461
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trg-tf-2

What is a "rear band"?
And anything else I should be getting?

Thanks for the help!
 
72DartSwingerV8 said:
Thanks for all the help guys. Here are the two things I'm planning on getting. I want this tranny to be better than new. Any other weird seals I need? Also, I have the cheap Hooker headers on the 318. Is it going to be a huge pain in the *** to get the tranny out with them on? Because I refuse to put them on again, they are coming off with a saw. Or can they stay on there? If not then I'm pulling out the checkbook for the TTIs.

http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=9099&CartId=1731461
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trg-tf-2

What is a "rear band"?
And anything else I should be getting?

Thanks for the help!
Click to expand...

I just pulled my trans out of the car on Sunday. Then took the complete transmission apart in about 1 hour Monday afternoon. I am buying the kit and parts to make the transmission last under high horsepower. You can see the photos and progress here........ on the last page post 267

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=224605&page=11
 
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o83M9lqLq20"]904 Torqueflite Endplay Measurement - YouTube[/ame]

That is very important tip on checking the input play.You don't want to leave that step out.
Also a good source for parts and tech help is to contact A and A transmission

They carry everything you need including the selective washers and hard to find parts

http://www.aandatrans.com/
 
The kit from northern looks pretty good. The rear band is the low/reverse band. The kits always seem to leave something out to keep costs down.

You can buy them individually from Bulkpart, Matko, etc. Don't forget a tub of tranny assembly lube & the ASTG service manual.

You can pretty much disassemble, toss it back together & it will work. Or you can check your endplay, rear planetary clearance, clutch pack clearances, etc. It will stand up to abuse much better with tighter clearances. Different thickness snap rings are available to dial in the clearances. You can order them from the local dealer. Saves on shipping costs for minor items. Bring the manual so you can show them what you need.
 
Tranny assembly lube = vasoline from local drugstore, if you want to make it a pretty color, some food dye of your choice.

That northern kit is a good piece. If it doesn't have thrust washers in it you'll have to source some.

Makco and WIT are good places to get stuff as well. If you need to buy some other stuff, hit 175 at Makco and free shipping kicks in. Might also tell them you can get teh 12008C kit for 105 from Northern, may price match. Makco is good people and provide good service.
 
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