Trans Dapt Rant

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Twisted-72

Twisted-72

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Ok so I buy the Trans Dapt motor mount kit, slant 6 to B/RB. This kit was bought for my kid as a X-mas gift. I had heard that they were a copy of the Schumacher kit, so I thought ok I'll give it a try. I used the Schumacher mounts in my Duster and they worked great. The Trans Dapt kit comes with a photo copy of the Schumacher instructions, I still have my Schumacher instructions. So after 3 days of talking to their tech department and sending pics and measurements they say there's nothing wrong. The motor sits to high on the drivers side, it won't level and I've done all I can do moving it around. I won't buy these again, not worth the time.

Trans Dapt mount
View attachment 100_5401.jpg

Schumacher mount
View attachment 100_5405.jpg
 
If I am not mistaken,sometimes the Schumacher kit instructions ask for clearance notching.Just a thought.
 
Abodybomber said:
If I am not mistaken,sometimes the Schumacher kit instructions ask for clearance notching.Just a thought.
Click to expand...
The notch is in the Drivers side perch and it is used for the oil pump to sit into. The Trans Dapt mount won't even let the oil pump down in the notch.
 
it looks like the bolt holes in the plate where it mounts to the motor are drilled higher on the trans dapt mount.
 
Twisted 72,
The Schumacher instructions clearly state that the K-member needs to be notched 1" for oil pump clearance. Did you do this?
~Michael
 

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he said he already notched the perch....i think the only way to fix this would be to either weld up the holes and redrill them, or to enlongate the holes but then you run the risk of the motor torque pulling it back up.
 
73AbodEE said:
it looks like the bolt holes in the plate where it mounts to the motor are drilled higher on the trans dapt mount.
Click to expand...
I agree and tried to tell the tech look at the pics. Look at the extra metal showing between the two pics. They say their mounts are correct. I said look I can space up I can't space down.
 
Guy's I've done this before. I know how these mounts work. I heard these were basically the Schumacher mounts at a cheaper price, so I thought I would try them. Well you get what you pay for.
 
I know it doesnt help but Ive used the /6 to SB kit and other then the hardware being to short they worked great.
 
AdamR said:
I know it doesnt help but Ive used the /6 to SB kit and other then the hardware being to short they worked great.
Click to expand...

I can not even find a listing for the slant to B/RB mounts in their catalog only the slant to SB. I wonder if they are a new item.

~Michael
 
Can you shim up the pass side and make it level? or elongate the holes, put a fenderwasher behind the nut, adjust it and then tack fenderwasher in place, then remove and fully weld washer in place/braze up old hole, whatever?

Some told me their 360 chrome pans don't fit with melling pumps either without about 3 cork gaskets stacked.
 
Twisted-72 said:
I agree and tried to tell the tech look at the pics. Look at the extra metal showing between the two pics. They say their mounts are correct. I said look I can space up I can't space down.
Click to expand...

:wack: i dont know how they could not see that. it looks like a good 1/2 or 3/4 inch
 
Dartman1969 said:
Thanks 73AbodEE I was writing my post when he posted that. I didn't see it until after I posted.

Can we see a picture of the other side?

~Michael
Click to expand...


The motor is back out of the car and I don't have any pics of the passenger side.
 
pishta said:
Can you shim up the pass side and make it level? or elongate the holes, put a fenderwasher behind the nut, adjust it and then tack fenderwasher in place, then remove and fully weld washer in place/braze up old hole, whatever?

Some told me their 360 chrome pans don't fit with melling pumps either without about 3 cork gaskets stacked.
Click to expand...


I don't want to shim up, I need to go down. The car is a 71 Dart with a 440 already slim on space.
 
shim up and put 1/2 spacers between your K member, raising the body 1/2. Didnt they do that in the early hemi cars? worked for me once.

..Cut and reweld..

That may work too but youll have to notch the mount pad if not already done so.
 
pishta said:
shim up and put 1/2 spacers between your K member, raising the body 1/2. Didnt they do that in the early hemi cars? worked for me once.

..Cut and reweld..

That may work too but youll have to notch the mount pad if not already done so.
Click to expand...

Pad is notched
 
if it were me, i would redrill the drivers side 1/2 inch below each hole. then i would fill in the 1/2 space up top with a good weld. grind or flap it all flat and the re drill the holes in their new position, using a bit 1/16 of an inch bigger than the bolts for play. and i would take some off of the top of the mount brackets if they interfered with the block. i cant tell if there is even enough bracket to do that
 
73AbodEE said:
if it were me, i would redrill the drivers side 1/2 inch below each hole. then i would fill in the 1/2 space up top with a good weld. grind or flap it all flat and the re drill the holes in their new position, using a bit 1/16 of an inch bigger than the bolts for play. and i would take some off of the top of the mount brackets if they interfered with the block. i cant tell if there is even enough bracket to do that
Click to expand...

I'll look into that
 
hey i have the same problem also with those tarns depot mounts. i can not engine level either in my car.doesn't matter what i do.its still uneven. my headers hit the pittman arm and idler arm also. i have my mounts the same way as u do. its a 71 dart with a 440 in it. go with schumaker mounts. i here there alot better mount.
 
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