trans input shaft will not slide onto clutch

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thanks for your help .. so turning the engine over by hand will not work? vs turning the output shaft in trans . isn't that the same result . not understanding.
about the set ... nothing has changed anywhere using all the old parts . old clutch set up, pressure plate ,disc. etc. turning the engine over spins the disc which is the same as turning the output shaft on trans to align the two parts ... am I wrong about that ?
You are right. Here is the difference. If the trans is not in gear, when you turn the engine and the clutch is against the input shaft splines it can rotate the input shaft with the disc. Because there is little resistance from the input shaft to rotation. If you have the trans in gear and rotate the trans output shaft it will not rotate the engine. Because the engine has resistance to rotation.
 
40 posts of everyone saying the same thing. Seems like OP knows what he’s doing…..

Motor resistance 35 pounds
Transmission 1 pound

:realcrazy:

Your having such a hard time cus your doing backasswards….

Pull the trans from the car, stick it to the motor and then stick all that into the car….
 
we tried turn the engine .. the clutch disc turns with the engine . and it still did not slide in . just another way to turn it


Did you slide the clutch disc onto the input shaft to VERIFY there aren’t burrs and other crap on the splines?

I didn’t read the whole thread.
 
not on a '65... that's why he's cornfused. Well, One of the reasons anyway...
Finally, someone picked up on the fact that it’s a 65 and has a ball and trunion flange on the end of the transmission and not a slip joint.

To the OP. It’s been said previously. It’s much easier to install the engine without having the transmission in the car and then install the transmission. It can be done with the transmission in the car but it’s almost impossible to align without another person helping you.
 
40 posts of everyone saying the same thing. Seems like OP knows what he’s doing…..

Motor resistance 35 pounds
Transmission 1 pound

:realcrazy:

Your having such a hard time cus your doing backasswards….

Pull the trans from the car, stick it to the motor and then stick all that into the car….

So funny that the opener today is groundhog day.... :BangHead: :BangHead: :BangHead: :BangHead: :BangHead: :BangHead: :BangHead: :BangHead: :BangHead: :BangHead: :BangHead: :BangHead: :BangHead: :BangHead:

Rusty left long ago... out here as well. Gave the effort, no more from me. Hope it works out.
 
on a 67+ car i could see maybe trying to go about it in this entirely bass ackwards way because there *might* be enough room to wiggle waggle things around and make it happen.

but in an early car? nah man, there's just no room.

with what you're attempting, it's like trying to thread a wet noodle up a wild cats ***.

pull the trans. test fit the bell to the trans. test fit the clutch disc to the splines and the throwout to the retainer, press. plate to the flywheel. then dry fit the trans into the bell on the motor (sans PP!) to make sure the input isn't binding on the pilot or crank-- you check the crank was drilled deep enuff, right?

everything is bueno? excellent. drop the motor in with the fly/PP and bell, then fly the trans in from under.

same still applies for putting the box in gear and rotatanating the output to help align/jiggle the splines thru the disc and pilot.

don't forget to put on the throwout.

good luck amigo.
 
A Proper installment would be Motor 1st, then Bell-Housing (Centered with an Indicator) Then Slip the Trans into the Clutch and Bell-Housing... Correct?
 
A Proper installment would be Motor 1st, then Bell-Housing (Centered with an Indicator) Then Slip the Trans into the Clutch and Bell-Housing... Correct?
you can drop the motor in with the bell, which is how i like to roll.

i find it easier to indicate in the bell on the motor outside the car rather than wriggling around underneath in the half light.
 
update ::: engine is in and all lined up and tightened down to the bell.. I did jack the wheels off the ground turned the wheels in gear a few time and it dropped back in further to the dowl pins . then had to line the pins up and it fell into place.. I just had this whole assemble out of the car 5 years ago when I installed the engine last time it just fell right into place this time it did NOT. I did not even have to turn the spline at all .... just plopped in place .

IMG_20250314_131104.jpg
 
You have to hold one or the other, If you put it in gear as you were told and the driveshaft is connected then the input shaft will not turn. Then when you rotate the engine it should line up and slide in as long as you don’t have other issues. Other than that do as you were told and jack up the rear of the car and put the trans in gear and turn a tire and it should spin the input shaft to help align the clutch disc
 
Oh he did like 20 post back…. OP has the trans in the car and is trying to slide the motor onto the trans. Going that route is like 2 monkeys Fing a football…


Damn. I should have read the thread closer.

It’s just idiotic to try and stick the engine onto a stick. I know the world loves a hack because it looks like a basket of roses.

Except when you reach into the basket to grab a few roses you realize they really aren’t roses. They are big ol’ stinking buttholes.

OP, STOP THIS MADNESS. RESIST THE HACK.

Get the engine out. Put the gearbox on the floor. Take the clutch out and slide the disc onto the input and make sure it slides on like socks on a rooster.

Put it back together and set the engine onto the car. LEAVE THE DISTRIBUTOR OUT.

Lower the engine. The pan will sit on the drag link. If you leave the distributor in it can break the cap.

Install the gearbox.

When I was younger (a loooooooooooooooooong loooooooooooooooooong time ago) I could get the gearbox up on my chest and lift it up and in in one shot.

Today, I use a floor jack that has a fixture I made to hold the gearbox using the reverse lever stud.

Doing what you are trying to do is absolute madness.

Look at the time you’ve wasted trying to cut a corner to save time.
 
Damn. I should have read the thread closer.

It’s just idiotic to try and stick the engine onto a stick. I know the world loves a hack because it looks like a basket of roses.

Except when you reach into the basket to grab a few roses you realize they really aren’t roses. They are big ol’ stinking buttholes.

OP, STOP THIS MADNESS. RESIST THE HACK.

Get the engine out. Put the gearbox on the floor. Take the clutch out and slide the disc onto the input and make sure it slides on like socks on a rooster.

Put it back together and set the engine onto the car. LEAVE THE DISTRIBUTOR OUT.

Lower the engine. The pan will sit on the drag link. If you leave the distributor in it can break the cap.

Install the gearbox.

When I was younger (a loooooooooooooooooong loooooooooooooooooong time ago) I could get the gearbox up on my chest and lift it up and in in one shot.

Today, I use a floor jack that has a fixture I made to hold the gearbox using the reverse lever stud.

Doing what you are trying to do is absolute madness.

Look at the time you’ve wasted trying to cut a corner to save time.
Your too late, he already has it in. Post 61. Good advice for next time.
 
I'm glad you got it in.
It's sure better than snapping the ears off the pump on one of my auto installs. lol
Never bolt the torque convertor to the flex plate before the transmission and convertor is fully seated / bolted in and convertor spins freely, do not use bolts to assist. lol
 
Damn. I should have read the thread closer.

It’s just idiotic to try and stick the engine onto a stick. I know the world loves a hack because it looks like a basket of roses.

Except when you reach into the basket to grab a few roses you realize they really aren’t roses. They are big ol’ stinking buttholes.

OP, STOP THIS MADNESS. RESIST THE HACK.

Get the engine out. Put the gearbox on the floor. Take the clutch out and slide the disc onto the input and make sure it slides on like socks on a rooster.

Put it back together and set the engine onto the car. LEAVE THE DISTRIBUTOR OUT.

Lower the engine. The pan will sit on the drag link. If you leave the distributor in it can break the cap.

Install the gearbox.

When I was younger (a loooooooooooooooooong loooooooooooooooooong time ago) I could get the gearbox up on my chest and lift it up and in in one shot.

Today, I use a floor jack that has a fixture I made to hold the gearbox using the reverse lever stud.

Doing what you are trying to do is absolute madness.

Look at the time you’ve wasted trying to cut a corner to save time.
At 67, I tried to do the chest lift. Kept bumping the friction plate with the input shaft. Clutch linkage was out of the car. My power lifter neighbor comes by and tells me to get out of the way. He holds up my 4 sp with one hand and depresses the clutch fork with his other hand and slides in the trans. Comes out from under the car with neck veins bulging and says, “Hey- that was a good one!” Next time I’m applying what I learned here.
 
At 67, I tried to do the chest lift. Kept bumping the friction plate with the input shaft. Clutch linkage was out of the car. My power lifter neighbor comes by and tells me to get out of the way. He holds up my 4 sp with one hand and depresses the clutch fork with his other hand and slides in the trans. Comes out from under the car with neck veins bulging and says, “Hey- that was a good one!” Next time I’m applying what I learned here.


At your age (I’m behind you several years but I’m over 60) you’ve EARNED a floor jack.

It’s near impossible (for me) to get the gearbox on the little pad of the jack, slide it under the car, get my fat *** on the ground, slide under the car all to try and keep the gearbox on the jack, line it up, slide it around, line it up again, raise the jack, have the gearbox damn near slide off the jack, swear like a truck driver for 5 minutes, get it all lined up again, raise the jack, slide the jack forward, repeat the falling off but I save it and start over again. Repeat this several times until I get the box in the right position.

Then I finally get the box up in there, slide it in real careful like and DOINK, I knock the throw out bearing off.

Repeat the above.

After an hour or so I get it in.

I looked at several transmission jacks but all of them were designed for cars on lifts. Too tall to set the gearbox on there and slide it under the car.

I made an ugly yet functional plate the gearbox sits on. I use the reverse stud to hold the box to the plate.

It now takes me about 20 minutes start to finish now.

I do feel your pain.
 
I let my oldest son do all the heavy lifting at a cost of cooking steaks on the grill for him. You should see him manhandle cylinder blocks and heads. lol
It's a win, win his wife brings dessert and if I time it right the grand kids can do the yard.
 
While you are pushing the trans in have someone pry the fork back to free the disc. It will self center the dist to the pilot bushing
 
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