trans kick down

[mikess68]

ok, 72 dart 318 added 4bbl the trans shifts but runs too fast before shifting. the rod is adjusted as far as it can and it needs about 1 inch to put enough preasure on the rod to make it shift quicker. where do i find a a longer rod or any tricks you know of. there is not another hole anywhere i can the it closer. so a longer rod would be good. the kick down rod is also extended out as far as it can go. >

 

[rumblefish360]

Was this a 2bbl to start with?
Did someone add a OE 4bbl. linkage set up?
Can you provide pictures from the carb to the tranny?
What carb do you have?

 

[mikess68]

its elde carb. orginal 2bl. elde intake. the linkage cable is correct or long enough, the leavers on the carb lean toward the front of the car and has no holes that will allowe less distance between the carb and the piviot where the kick down rod attaches. when i lengthen out the rod, it is not long enough to put enough preasure to make the car shift from 1st to second unless you get up to 30 mps. it shifts alright but too much rpm required. so i figure i need more preasure on the rod, the set up has not preasure on the rod for about 1/8 of travel of the carb before the rod is engaged. and i have tried to make both long as i can. so i think i need about an inch more to adjust with.

 

[RedFish]

The stock kickdown linkage and throttle cable support bracket are different for 2 brl or 4 brl.
If you can't find the correct pieces in a parts yard a Lokar cable kit will be the easiest fix. Good luck

 

[MopaR&D]

its elde carb. orginal 2bl. elde intake. the linkage cable is correct or long enough, the leavers on the carb lean toward the front of the car and has no holes that will allowe less distance between the carb and the piviot where the kick down rod attaches. when i lengthen out the rod, it is not long enough to put enough preasure to make the car shift from 1st to second unless you get up to 30 mps. it shifts alright but too much rpm required. so i figure i need more preasure on the rod, the set up has not preasure on the rod for about 1/8 of travel of the carb before the rod is engaged. and i have tried to make both long as i can. so i think i need about an inch more to adjust with.

You've got it mixed up. The transmission will shift sooner if the linkage isn't as far back. Adjust the kickdown rod so that it's more forward (toward the front of the car) and it should shift at a lower RPM.

 

[cosgig]

If I'm not mistaken, I bought my 340 4 barrel kickdown linkage from Penstar Productions a couple years ago. It would be easiest to buy the Lokar piece, but there are many 340 guys out there who could come up with the linkage for you also. Good luck, Geof

 

[mikess68]

i confused again. not unusual lately.
if the rod that goes down to the trans is pulled all the way up (normal position due to spring loaded) then as you moved the rod down toward the ground, this is what makes it shift, more toward the ground the sooner the shift. .....right? dont' give up on me yet!

 

[MopaR&D]

i confused again. not unusual lately.
if the rod that goes down to the trans is pulled all the way up (normal position due to spring loaded) then as you moved the rod down toward the ground, this is what makes it shift, more toward the ground the sooner the shift. .....right? dont' give up on me yet!

NOPE. Push the rod "in" towards the firewall/ground and it will shift later. Release the rod forward up/towards the front of the car and it will shift sooner.

 

[mikess68]

ok . help me here. i know its simple, but only if you understand and i don't want to screw it up.

if the linkage has play in it in the resting position, the trans will shift sooner. if i take the "play" out at resting position, it will whift later. so right now i have no play in the linkage and it is shifting at a later *faster* rpm and you have to fly to get it to shift into high. thats all wrong. if im reading your post right. so what i want to to is leave a little play in the linkage before it starts activating the down shift rod, and that will make it shift sooner. do i finally have it right????? help!

 

[beepahh]

let's make this real simple at full throttle wide open the trans lever must be all the way pushed back....there might be adjustment at the trans also......

 

[rumblefish360]

its elde carb.

OK, It's an Edelbrock carb.

orginal 2bl. elde intake

There is no such thing as an original 2bbl. Edelbrock intake

the linkage cable is correct or long enough,

Maybe.
I'm confused by some of the diction used.

Depending on the attaching rod to the tranns that runs upwards to the carb, I have ethioer a easy handy mans fix or you have a 340 multi link "Linkage" set up wildly out of adjustment.

Ethier the linkage is correct and adjusted wrong or you have a 2bbl. linkage.

the leavers on the carb lean toward the front of the car and has no holes that will allowe less distance between the carb and the piviot where the kick down rod attaches.

The carb is not supposed to have any holes in it except for a return spring and throttle nut and stud that the throttle cable attachs to. Any other holes in the carbs linkage are for adapter set ups for MoPars or Fords.

when i lengthen out the rod, it is not long enough to put enough preasure to make the car shift from 1st to second unless you get up to 30 mps.

"mps?" Miles per second??? Damn, that's fast, LOL only kidding, Ha ha ha ha.
The rod should be making contact on the throttle arm at rest. At the bottom of the rod where it meets the tranny, release the nut in the square block that holds the rod and move it towards the front of the car to shorten the overall distance. Because the distance is shorter, it will enguage quicker

 

[rumblefish360]

let's make this real simple at full throttle wide open the trans lever must be all the way pushed back....there might be adjustment at the trans also......

LOL! Theres a ssquare block with a bolt that is an interfearance fit and holds the linkage arm.

 

[mikess68]

ive been adjusting the linkage at the carb and the pivot that the down shift rod snaps onto. i have not been under the car to adjust anything down there. so is that why our terms are not matching? i wish i had a book!

so i adjust the carb side linkage to have no play but also no strain on the down shifter rod. then i get under the car and ajust the rod down there to make the throw shorter than it is now. due to changing from 2bl to 4bl. .......i hate to ask this.....but...... IS THAT RIGHT YET???

 

[rumblefish360]

Is this what it looks like at your carb? Set it up like this and then, if need be, we'll go under the car.

 

[mikess68]

ok, it looks like that with a slot. i have it adjusted with no gap on the firewall side of the slot, all the open side is to the front, in front of the bolt that attaches to the carb. further back at the piviot linkage where the kick down rod snaps on, i have the rod at the higest point, verticle. it is spring loaded and go there without any resistance. i then attached it to the piviot. therefore, no preasure but no slack either. now i added tension or length to the rod and it still waits too long to shift. i added more length (i have a 1/2 inch of the rod pushed down at rest at this time) and it does not shift soon enough. this also does not allow the carb to be full open due to the kickdown rod being fully depressed. that is the current state of the car. i decided to stop till i figure out what and how much to move. hope this is understandable. i would take a pic but it looks just like the other post. i know the items are in the location correctly, just don't understand how much slack or preasure to have to make it shift sooner. sorry for the long version.

 

[doktor_x]

I fabricated a new rod using 5/16" round stock bent to the proper angle and ran a die over one end. So far, it's working like a charm. Ignore the ugly throttle cable bracket treatment.

 

[mikess68]

i had a welding shop add 1 1/4 inch to the rod and it now can adjust both ways so that problem is over. cost 10 bucks and well worth it.

 

[mikess68]

success. i moved the rod the other way and put a small amount of play in the rod. resulted in shifting better. it runs up to 35 and you have to let off for it to shift into high, but thats a major improvement . i think if i put a little more play in the rod linkage then it might be about right or at least liveable. thank for all the help guys. don't know how i got going in the wrong direction. shew.....:-D