Transmission shifts to early after rear end gear change.

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furz4

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I changed my rear end fro 2.76 to 3.23 and couldn't get my automatic shift points back where thy used to be, they were shifting way to soon. I tried adjusting the kick down but it didn't seem like it was making much difference. Since the trans shop installed a shift kit when the trans was rebuilt I sent the car to them to work on, they upgraded the shift kit to stage 2 whatever that is, I though I had a TF-2 installed on rebuild. They made a bunch of adjustments and when I got the car back it seemed to be shifting right. I took the car out and ran it hard and it would not shift automatically at full throttle correctly. It wanted to hold 1st gear unless you let off a bit then it would shift the second gear shift point was at 4K at WOT, totally messed up. Before the gear change I had automatic shifting at 5k and normal operation. Anyway upon inspecting what the shop did I found my carb was not going full throttle as the kick down linkage was adjusted incredibly way to long. So I set the carb to full throttle and adjusted the kick down to be full back at full throttle. Now I am back to where I was before I took it in, gets into drive to soon at part throttle and full throttle up shifts are too early. I am wondering if I need to change the governor or if they just jacked something up messing with the valve body. Hopefully some of our experienced trans folks can point me in the right direction.
 
Possibly. The correct way to adjust the throttle pressure linkage is for it to be full forward, no or very slight play. Any throttle movement moves the K-D lever. If any linkage is bent, distorted or incorrect, this all goes out the window. 2bbl and 4bbl linkage mixed can cause issues.
 
Going from 2.7 to 3.23 ratio is really not that drastic but will cause a quicker shift. Much easier on the engine as the load is less. I’d verify the KD linkage is proper / adjusted correctly and if the trans shop added a shift kit that will change the transmission characteristics - almost like reprogramming it.
 
And, I might add, make sure you've got the correct Mopar linkage adapter on your carb, so the throttle stud (and the kickdown linkage) is located correctly...
 
@furz4
A&A transmission has governor weights for that,
Or, you can mod the weights so it shifts later.
Used to mod them myself.
It involves taking some material off them so they are lighter so they don’t spin out as soon.
 
Question I have that may help out the OP... Does adjusting the line pressure on the valve body affect the shift points? I just put a TF-2 kit in my 904 and I've had to adjust my throttle pressure cable (Lokar) wayy down to get it to not shift too late. When I got the VB back together I gave the line pressure screw about 3/4-1 turn in from where the spring seat was touching the plate (fully "out"). Y'know, just because I thought a little extra wouldn't hurt...?
 
I will check the linkage again, I don't think there is any slack at the carb stud and it is full back at full throttle. I don't mind the quick upshifts in the automatic mode but I would like to get back to full throttle shifts in drive being around 5K again.
 
The engine can torque over and make the throttle lever hit the floor if it's too close from shimming motor mounts(I'm guilty), then your kickdown adjustment goes out the window. BTDT
Original linkage?
 
I have the original 3 piece 2bbl linkage and the 4bbl throttle cable holder and pivot.
 
Ok I have checked the kick down adjustment per the factory method and it is pretty much dead on. I have the 2 bbl carb rod modified so get proper adjustment. I just have a bad feeling with a shift kit put in on top of another if things were missed or assumed to be correct that weren't. I find it strange that the 2-3 shift is better then the 1-2 however and it makes me wonder what they did do. I had asked them to make sure I had at least a 3.8 shift lever and I know we didn't change that. It would be highly unusual for a 318 car to have that high of a lever from the factory. I suspect my 1-2 shift is softer for that reason. I have to pull the pan to replace the leaking gasket they installed so I will have a look when I do that.
 
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no, no, no.
From 2.76 to 3.23 is a 17% increase, and on top of that is added a TF-2 kit, so
@TrailBeast has it right
You are gonna need to modify the Governor, or get new lighter flyweights AND
in all probability, the shift points will not sync up properly with original shift springs. I've been down that road.
Oh yur in for such a treat!

At WOT, in AUTO-SHIFT mode,
Throttle pressure adds to Line pressure, while being opposed by Governor pressure.
Since your governor pressure is currently much lower than it should be, it currently does not require much KD system adjustment, to be added to the Jacked up TF-2 Line Pressure plus the internally adjusted throttle pressure, to delay the "normal" Part-Throttle upshifts.
You could go back inside the trans and crank one or both of those two back down, (which may be what your shop did) which sorta defeats the purpose of the TF-2 kit. OR, you could increase the Governor pressure, until you get a good balance of street manners at part throttle, PLUS a bang-shift at WOT. Once there, you can balance line pressure against throttle pressure to have the shifts occur at a pre-selected rpm. or
just do what most of us do, which is to go to manual-shift mode at WOT, and leave the Auto-WOT upshifts at whatever they happen to be; which IMO, with 3.23s on the street is just dandy fine cuz Second gear is good to ~80 mph anyway.
But you know, there' always guys like me, and maybe you, that will drop the pan 5, 10, or 15 times, to sweeten her up.

After you get your new governor parts installed;

You WILL have to fine tune with the KD mech, and I can almost guarantee you two things are gonna happen;
>1) the trans, in drive, will auto-downshift into low from second, way too early, and quite harsh. and
>2) the N/P shift into gear with no Governor pressure to oppose it will be quite harsh.

As for #1;
Think about it; the throttle is closed, so the KD is at minimum, and the governor pressure is now much higher, So Governor pressure plus line pressure with no KD pressure, forces the downshift. At this point you probably do not want to take the governor off again, so you have two options; 1) reduce the Line-pressure or 2) reduce the Throttle pressure. BOTH of those were cranked up during the install of the TF-2 kit, soooooo now off comes the pan again, to dial the pressure back.
But which one?
Well if you spend a lot of time at the track, then you kindof want to keep the line pressure up.
But if this is a DD, hell no, give some up.
On mine, I also gave up a lil Throttle pressure, which has the effect of softening the light throttle up-shifts.
I highly recommend to drill and tap an access port so that line-pressure can be adjusted without taking the pan off. When next the pan comes off, you will be able to see exactly where the port needs to be.
Throttle Pressure is adjusted with the KD adjustment, until a decent window can no longer be found, then you gotta go back inside...... lol.
as for #2,
To protect the rear sprague, you should probably always start in manual low. But the proper fix for this is the one-two punch of; reduced idle rpm, and the re-installation of the the wavy spring into the Forward clutch, with a possible reduction of either Line-pressure or Throttle pressure.
If reduced Idle rpm causes a tip-in sag, you will want to reduce the Idle-Timing.
If the trans really bangs into reverse, your best option is to reduce the rpm; do this first, because when reverse is selected, the pressure is NON-regulated; that is to say; whatever the pump is able to generate, it all goes to; slamming the high-drum, and to slamming the band. The proper fix is to put the wavy spring back into the high-drum which usually solves the problem for a streeter, but softens the 2-3 engagement ever so little.
I should say that, a harsh P/N to reverse engagement is probably not that big a deal to the trans, But the ring-gear is now turning backwards, and if a 7.25, there's no telling when she's gonna have had enough; not to forget the poor 7260 U-joints, if those are what you have. Besides that, it's almost as annoying to me as is being constipated.

Hyup, good times ........ Happy HotRodding.



oh, yur in for such a treat, lol.
 
Does the transmission's kickdown work correctly?
 
Thanks for the good information I had a feeling it probably was going to need a governor change since it behaved that way after the gear change before the upgrade to the TF-2. My kick down does work but not at speeds much above 50 MPH. I have an 8 3/4 in it so I am not too worried about harsh engagement as reverse is pretty harsh already. I'll try to get shift timing and kick down working better with a governor change and see what happens. I was thinking the 5K governor would probably be where to start and ZI see you can get springs from the same supplier to correct the shift offset.
 
Thanks for the good information I had a feeling it probably was going to need a governor change since it behaved that way after the gear change before the upgrade to the TF-2. My kick down does work but not at speeds much above 50 MPH. I have an 8 3/4 in it so I am not too worried about harsh engagement as reverse is pretty harsh already. I'll try to get shift timing and kick down working better with a governor change and see what happens. I was thinking the 5K governor would probably be where to start and ZI see you can get springs from the same supplier to correct the shift offset.
So it won't shift to 2nd at all above 50?
 
Kickdown is NOT shift point adjustment.

Be super careful messing with the kickdown.
There is only one "right" way.

Leaving it loose is the easiest way to cook a Mopar trans- specifically third gear.
 
No kick down above about 50 MPH wide open throttle shifting in drive is firm but way early. I cant adjust the kick down to be longer or I won't get full throttle. I'll get the governor kit installed and see what I end up with. Looks like I can do it in the car if I drop the cross member.
 
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