Trying some new valves

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Thread is called 'trying some new valves'
Now what?
No one is twisting your arm to go out and buy them. It's turning people on to some valve tech..something reasonably priced.
You're just here to stir it up.
You don't like my opinion? Tough ****, don't keep coming back.
Id ask , again, what do you run for valves, but I dont care anymore. Your rebuttal is empty..you are right at the edge of arguing punctuation next...so yeah I'm sure you're in no way trying to be offensive... because I hoemstly believe you were born an asswipe.
Ignore list, along w/jpar and many other 'fabtastic friends', without even noticing... because like them..
..you don't offer anything other than a headache or an X.

I asked you a simple question, why you felt these are good valves and you go off the deep end. Put me on ignore, and then get back on your meds. Your reaction is completely uncalled for but seems to be typical of your posts in general.
 

Ca pump 91 vs 184 cranking vs 7200 vs elevation.
Have the tune good...but I'm at the ocean...elevation changs abruptly upwards of a 1000 ft... I go from 564 to sea level in 8 blocks. This is the reality of ragged edge...
You will always be ******* with it or enduring momentary lean spots up in the r's. I can drive down the freeway in 80 degree weather.... then 10 min south on the 5 hit a big marineayer or cold front of 50 degree air.
I need exhaust valves that can handle a rainy day. Once they go oval...and it can happen in a blink... its heads off time.
I'm one of those... trying to make the most durable, versatile, well rounded pump gas monster I can muster.

To you question...roller rockers, center sweep..still not perfect though. Getting a geometry kit soon from Mike.
OK, so I take it that the ovaling is due to sudden temp changes in the exhaust temps? Or just temps beyond what the materials can take?

I am on the same basic wavelength, but just don't push the pressures and temps nearly as far... and want a wiiiide torque curve, even if I give up some peak HP. Maybe I am too lazy to push it harder ....wait, let's say I am 'busy' LOL.

And I drop 1000' in elevation just driving 4 miles to town or 1600' in the same distance if I drive down the other side of the mountain. (We live 1/4 mile off of the Blue Ridge Parkway.) I tuned for all I could at 1000' elevations once and then found out what dropping to sea level will do for detonation tendencies.
 
OK, so can you drop one one the concrete, and if it doesn't break, flow test it. :)
 
OK, so I take it that the ovaling is due to sudden temp changes in the exhaust temps? Or just temps beyond what the materials can take?

I am on the same basic wavelength, but just don't push the pressures and temps nearly as far... and want a wiiiide torque curve, even if I give up some peak HP. Maybe I am too lazy to push it harder ....wait, let's say I am 'busy' LOL.

And I drop 1000' in elevation just driving 4 miles to town or 1600' in the same distance if I drive down the other side of the mountain. (We live 1/4 mile off of the Blue Ridge Parkway.) I tuned for all I could at 1000' elevations once and then found out what dropping to sea level will do for detonation tendencies.
That's a jet change, less timing could help..but at a point help it run hotter on top of lean. Gas is different everywhere. I could get by on Chevron 91 for pump gas, all others made for run on. Stp octane boost and Chevron was safe with 25 total timing.
Head milled far enough and quench dome dish...made for fast centralized burn. It worked.... but once in a while there was no octane boost, and though it didn't run on... it wasn't content...
'Ideal' is not a promise. To me this is like stud girdle, insurance and performance when needed ,if.
The original plan was to put in my timing dial under the dash so I could quickly adjust for things but that didn't ever happen it's still sitting on the shelf. If I just ran 100 octane at 8 or $9 a gallon none of this will probably happen I may be a hair over octane but not when the weather changes then I'd be right on and safe. The other problem cuz I had found out the throttle shaft was awfully loose on the cable side and probably leaned out every cylinder on that plenum, dual plane, so #1,4,6,7 all went oval. I really didn't built any wiggle room into this motor.. so this round I'm beefing up some things and relaxing others. There is much in my mind on this and many other details to that thing.
Fun testing **** out and seeing how much abuse these 50 yr old motors can take while pushing into the mid 500s hp
There's been a few factors, first incarnation fell victim to ovaled exh valves... a heavy hand on the... s e r d i... almost led me to an instant failure on the 2nd... but I caught it lapping after doing more port work... changed shops... dingle balled the the 1st , new rings, fresh heads, bigger roller...20 psi more cranking.... the leaking throttle shaft was my unknown saboteur... leaning out at 7k... and on 91 only. The perfect storm.
Shattered piston and cylinder taken out
Could have had a crack in cyl, could have shattered the piston first on lean spike...piston speed was huge... frequencies... wish I had mini cameras to watch that all go down in slow motion.. gawd that would be thee most amazing thing to watch.
 
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From 1st to last quote in bold.
Isn't it scary how some people don't even know what's in their engine? Isn't it scary that guys get into wanting high power engines but for the most part have no understanding of the mechanics and seemingly have no desire to.
The big mouth heads, if you have them re tested, may have you trowing them through Dave Hughes shop front window.
Search member @Ironmike and look for his thread on them...also bloomer heads.
With that said... "have yet to have a problem"... you and me both have no idea what cam is in your engine and I personally have no idea how often and how hard you drive your car and I do not know the overall combination or compression. Fwiw Even a stock valve can handle whips to 7k, and your average flat tappet cam build...the Chinese is a step up. It's how wide that margin is though before you need a better valve...and that bridge to the next level is short if you are looking for regular service life and not a season car.
"Its just that I've never had a problem"
Hopefully you never do. I'm on your side..trust me.
But if and when you do...you'll get it.lol remember this thread.

I'm a solid roller guy turning 7k with 410 cid and cranking 184 , quench dome pistons, .030 quench distance...iron heads heavily ported by me and flowed on my own bench, motor built by me. Heads assembled by me, set up...everything... picked my own parts. It's what I do as a side living. Just a little insight I to the usage of the parts in question. Maybe someone should have asked ,right?

"Never heard of them"
I think that's the real issue for some...
Racers and builders know. Joe schmoe..not so much.
I had the heads tested they were very close the the specs Hughes listed for them , I have my rev liiter set at 6400 rpm so not worried about what happens at 7,000 , have 185 cyl pressure and listed the roller cam specs in another thread I have all the specs it's just that I'm lazy don't feel like searching for all the paper work . I don't race the car much these days . If I ever do need valves the ones you listed look good and priced well , thanks for posting them . Be interested in a follow up post after you've put a few thousand miles on them just to see how good that coating is and. how it holds up
 
I chose Milodon valves for my blown 354 Hemi build... Good quality at fair price. One of my machinsts uses them ono most of his early Hemi stuff.

The Engine Pro parts seem to be well known with engine builders. The Black Ice is supposed to be good for high heat nitrous and turbo engines. Howard's carries a similar valve.

I bought Manley's to replace the Manley's in my dirt car motor. The exhaust valves have a nice thick margin but the alky should keep em cool.
 
There is no one and only..
And there is not much sharing ... till now.
Thanks .
 
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