Anyone have pics of their install? It appears straight forward, but already had to change the mounting bracket bolt locations and not sure if I am going down the wrong path already lol... Any pics would be great!
TTI exhaust on 71 Duster
- Thread starter Muswagon
- Start date
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Dragonsteel
Well-Known Member
Long tube or Shortie? Big or Small block?
I supplied manifold casting numbers and bought the complete system With x-pipe I took the pieces to a muffler shop and had all the slip joints expanded a bit more but it all slide together perfectly without cutting. I did have to modify the muffler hangers to make them bolt in to where the directions said to bolt them. 1972 Dart with 340 manifolds. I don’t have any photos
lemondana
BlackDart
You shouldn't have needed to expand the slip joints any. Start in the back and follow the directions. I've installed 2 complete systems, I only had to trim the rear of the headpipes about an inch on my 69 R/T. The system on my Patrol car in my avatar fit without any cutting..
I have a H system on my 72 340 4 speed Demon. With Doug’s headers and it fit perfectly. And a TTI x pipe on my 66’ barracuda with the 273 auto and Doug’s headers. Fits perfectly and never needed to have any muffler shop fix anything. I’m not a fan of those big clunky muffler hanger support brackets but they are massive but you know they will never brake.
And yet, I had several joints that were too tight to slip together which is why I went to the muffler shop. I also started at the back just as the directions and videos specified.
“starting at the back” sounds well… kinda backwards. But trust me it it works. Especially when working on jack stands in a driveway. The higher you get the body of the car the better. Allow rear axle to hang for more room. Jack the rear up to normal when adjusting to make stuff clear.
I prefered the H-pipe over the X-pipe due to being able to adjust the distance of the spread of the front pipes for correct muffler location. I never was a fan of the performance from an X-pipe. But to each his own.
3" TTI H-pipe front to back . Mufflers are level. Like a glove and don't hit anywhere
3" TTI H-pipe front to back . Mufflers are level. Like a glove and don't hit anywhere
I started at the back, the large bracket will not allow me to use it as a clamp for muffler to pipe (I think that is what is intended?), so I am using a band clamp just ahead of it and the bracket will serve only as a hanger. The tailpipes fit so well, it is nice to have an actual design, I am so used to MAC and Flowmaster Fox mustang stuff which lost measurements in translation.
It is the full X pipe system without mufflers, I am using Black Widow 250, but the pipe on the muffler being slightly shorter is probably why the bracket doesn't fit right. I prefer this actually, U bolt clamps are never good for later disassembly.
The X pipe at the back has a kickout on one side, any insight on which side this will be or I assume it will be obvious when I get that far?
I am running Schumacher Tri Y's, so I have no idea yet what mess awaits me in the front lol. I bought the slip connectors when I bought my kit, and I bought the advance auto extensions that bolt right to the schumachers so curious how close anything will be.
I will probably just get it to the X pipe up stage and take it to get them connected to the Schumachers at a muffler shop. Schumacher included a pair of flanges as well for that purpose.
I will report back.
I have a MaxxJaxx lift so it is decently high up. Kudos to any of you who did this on the ground, you are a better man than me
It is the full X pipe system without mufflers, I am using Black Widow 250, but the pipe on the muffler being slightly shorter is probably why the bracket doesn't fit right. I prefer this actually, U bolt clamps are never good for later disassembly.
The X pipe at the back has a kickout on one side, any insight on which side this will be or I assume it will be obvious when I get that far?
I am running Schumacher Tri Y's, so I have no idea yet what mess awaits me in the front lol. I bought the slip connectors when I bought my kit, and I bought the advance auto extensions that bolt right to the schumachers so curious how close anything will be.
I will probably just get it to the X pipe up stage and take it to get them connected to the Schumachers at a muffler shop. Schumacher included a pair of flanges as well for that purpose.
I will report back.
I have a MaxxJaxx lift so it is decently high up. Kudos to any of you who did this on the ground, you are a better man than me
That Demon system looks great.. I get what you mean about being able to spread the mid pipe with H, I found the same when I was a fox mustang guy, the X had only one place to go. And yes I am aware that yet another issue with the 440 is the header and the problem I will be facing soon ;)
Wvbuzzmaster
Well-Known Member
I would not go with TTI ever again… for what it cost I had fit up issues on the small block shorties and full H pipe exhaust. I had to use an oil filter relocation kit so as to not have to remove the passenger header to change the block mounted oil filter. I had to cut and weld the exhaust system to take out the upward offset so it would not occupy the same space as the original floors in my car. Rewelded the one muffler inlet tube that was split instead of trying to get a replacement. The big, bulky hangers for behind the mufflers did not work for my car either as they were incorrect angle and the seat belt bolt pads aren’t located there for those hangers on a Duster so just used some cheap hangers from Advance Auto. And after all that the ceramic coated headers when properly cleaned of oils and fingerprints and broken in a year ago and car not run for a year… tarnished after waking the car back up this year and began to rust by the end of the month… I am pretty sure the funky smell I smelled the first couple runs this year was the ceramic coating self destructing… The exhaust does sound good… but for having $2000 tied up in it (including shipping from coast to coast) I feel like I would have done better with generic shorties and generic exhaust kit off of Summit and having to make my own downpipes… instead of having to remake the full kit, and then the ceramic coated headers rusting… I am still using this exhaust cause like I said… $2000 into it… but if this was not just a driver quality build the rusted headers and full exhaust would be going back to TTI and cheaper exhaust setup would be going on… paid premium prices so I would have nice exhaust… but that was not to be…
When trying to make the header pipes come through the indents in the torsion bar cross member ues 2 turn downs and put the face to face. You can turn them to fit and weld them onse on place. I can remove the turns from the headers or the pipes from the turns by using weld on exhaust clips instead of clamps.
This method is the easiest way to have mandrel bent exhaust off the header. This is a full 3 1/2 exhaust through the mufflers. I welded the open tailpipe flanges to the turndowns to still have the exhaust coming out the rear for street use .
I have a 71 Dart with a TTI kit with their downpipes. There was a little cutting/massaging involved but I reused my Black Widow Race Venom mufflers which are shorter than the mufflers that come in the TTI kit. I also went with an H-Pipe because I prefer the sound of it over an X-Pipe on an older Muscle Car.
My only regret was not buying TTI longtubes from the start. I will though this Winter.
My only regret was not buying TTI longtubes from the start. I will though this Winter.
I wish I would have gone with TTI headers, but with the 440 they sound like an absolute nightmare. It’s all just hangin round right now, but the parts I have it’s close. Should be simple to get pipes made from tri y to the slip connectors. I have zero fab skills so I’m not making anything lol
It is so easy to unbolt the lower ball joint ,shocks and trans cross member. Couple of accessories and drop the whole thing down to fit the headers. That is what we do. No fighting or scratching the the headers. . I have a front frame section to make sure the Z-bar fits on 4 speed cars. Also fit the manual steering headers to power steering. Big block headers are the same way unless your fitting fenderwell headers. Then we use plastic mock up blocks.
72 Duster, 318, Stock Manifolds. 2.5" TTI Exhaust.
Big part of the performance it puts out.
☆☆☆☆☆
Big part of the performance it puts out.
☆☆☆☆☆
I got a little creative, it will get me to the alignment shop and then exhaust shop when I’m done the other little crap lol…. Don’t roast me, just wanted it to seal and not fall off so I can drive it to get done correctly
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Wvbuzzmaster
Well-Known Member
If your exhaust is sealed up with clamps, I see no issue with that. My exhaust is all assembled with standard style exhaust clamps, perfectly fine.
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