tunnel ram

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400/430 is a lot more streetable with a 360.
400/430 with a 340 is gonna burn a lotta gas on the hiway, and an overdrive is not thaaat much help.
400/430 with a stroker is probably what you need
And then there's supercharging.

But if you lower your expectations just a little, to say 330/360, that's a whole new world.

But if you knew how heavy you were gonna be on the start line, and how fast (not quick),you wanted to go, then it's just a bit of math and like magic, there's your target hp number. Then after that it's just money. And a lotta money goes to making the car ET according to its mph.
If you start with an ET goal, to run with a street suspension, then it's cubic dollars: or could be.

Here's a fer instance;
Suppose you scale at 3600 pounds, and you have a 400 hp engine, the math indicates 3600/400=9pounds per hp. and the chart says this will do about 111mph with an automatic. The same chart says this should go (not will go), 11.9 ish, with SuperStock suspension. Your street suspension could drop that from 1/2 to 1 second slower, or even more.
Now, it's gonna cost a lotta money to go 111 in that tank, and it's gonna cost a lot more to whittle the time down into the 11s. So there's no sense of talking about 11s with a 340 unless you got a lotta money.
Now, my wife says I come off sounding condescending all the time, and that is not my intent.I'm just laying it out there.
And we haven't even talked about the maintenance on an 11 second 340 car. This is really not the car you want to jump into and drive a thousand miles.
And , then there's this;
Put a BB in there and 11s get easier, and that car could be the one to go touring with, cuz it's much less stressed. You can run less TC, and less rear gear, and it WILL respond to an overdrive.
And the best news is that it costs about the same money to build 400 horsepower with either engine, ignoring the cost of procuring it. The 440 might actually be less, cuz you could do it with factory iron heads, whereas the 340 is gonna need some more serious heads
>But now look here, suppose you just want to break into the 12s, like 12.9 with street suspension cuz you don't want to spend the $2000/$3000 or more on the SS suspension. So the chart says a 12.9 street car needs to at least, at least, be a 12.4 race car so that, at 3600 pounds is 360 hp, see now that's doable fairly cheap.
What else is doable is to remove the P/S and P/B and take a total of 200 pounds out of that car. That's doable, and you won't need those on a tour, anyway. So now you're down to 3400 pounds and 340 hp, even easier. Now you've got a reasonably streetable 340 car.
>Now you go and put the bare minimum traction controls on there, like SS springs, sticky tires a traction aider and some lightweight wheels,and the right rear gear, and so your 60ft comes down, and maybe your ET comes down .3 seconds.Well the flipside of that is; if 12.9 is fast enough, then you can take another 20 hp outta that 340 and have a 3400 pound/320 hp, very streetable pkg. This is just a basic hi-comp340 with headers and a hi-flow exhaust with maybe a one size bigger cam.
Maybe you already have this engine, so you could be in the 12s with just the diet and the rear suspension mods.And best of all, this level of performance, after the tune is in, will run forever on nothing but normal routine maintenance.
Honestly not trying to be a dick
Happy HotRodding
 
400/430 is a lot more streetable with a 360.
400/430 with a 340 is gonna burn a lotta gas on the hiway, and an overdrive is not thaaat much help.
400/430 with a stroker is probably what you need
And then there's supercharging.

But if you lower your expectations just a little, to say 330/360, that's a whole new world.

But if you knew how heavy you were gonna be on the start line, and how fast (not quick),you wanted to go, then it's just a bit of math and like magic, there's your target hp number. Then after that it's just money. And a lotta money goes to making the car ET according to its mph.
If you start with an ET goal, to run with a street suspension, then it's cubic dollars: or could be.

Here's a fer instance;
Suppose you scale at 3600 pounds, and you have a 400 hp engine, the math indicates 3600/400=9pounds per hp. and the chart says this will do about 111mph with an automatic. The same chart says this should go (not will go), 11.9 ish, with SuperStock suspension. Your street suspension could drop that from 1/2 to 1 second slower, or even more.
Now, it's gonna cost a lotta money to go 111 in that tank, and it's gonna cost a lot more to whittle the time down into the 11s. So there's no sense of talking about 11s with a 340 unless you got a lotta money.
Now, my wife says I come off sounding condescending all the time, and that is not my intent.I'm just laying it out there.
And we haven't even talked about the maintenance on an 11 second 340 car. This is really not the car you want to jump into and drive a thousand miles.
And , then there's this;
Put a BB in there and 11s get easier, and that car could be the one to go touring with, cuz it's much less stressed. You can run less TC, and less rear gear, and it WILL respond to an overdrive.
And the best news is that it costs about the same money to build 400 horsepower with either engine, ignoring the cost of procuring it. The 440 might actually be less, cuz you could do it with factory iron heads, whereas the 340 is gonna need some more serious heads
>But now look here, suppose you just want to break into the 12s, like 12.9 with street suspension cuz you don't want to spend the $2000/$3000 or more on the SS suspension. So the chart says a 12.9 street car needs to at least, at least, be a 12.4 race car so that, at 3600 pounds is 360 hp, see now that's doable fairly cheap.
What else is doable is to remove the P/S and P/B and take a total of 200 pounds out of that car. That's doable, and you won't need those on a tour, anyway. So now you're down to 3400 pounds and 340 hp, even easier. Now you've got a reasonably streetable 340 car.
>Now you go and put the bare minimum traction controls on there, like SS springs, sticky tires a traction aider and some lightweight wheels,and the right rear gear, and so your 60ft comes down, and maybe your ET comes down .3 seconds.Well the flipside of that is; if 12.9 is fast enough, then you can take another 20 hp outta that 340 and have a 3400 pound/320 hp, very streetable pkg. This is just a basic hi-comp340 with headers and a hi-flow exhaust with maybe a one size bigger cam.
Maybe you already have this engine, so you could be in the 12s with just the diet and the rear suspension mods.And best of all, this level of performance, after the tune is in, will run forever on nothing but normal routine maintenance.
Honestly not trying to be a dick
Happy HotRodding
you have been lots of help. I'm not after lots of hp just more than 300 350 or 400 just want to find out what cam to use the car can handle 400 hp. don't care for more than a 12 second car. just want to be like my old 68 340 swinger I had as a kid it was stock. and I remember racing my brother with his 70 cuda 440 6 pack up to 70 mph it was even and then he would pull away my car just doesn't seem to be the same
 
Iv'e got a 70 340 block all stock bored 30 over heads are ported with 202 int. and 160 ex. mopar aluminum duel plain manifold. with a 750 cfm edelbrock carb. not sure what year the heads are one has a U stamping the other is O. what would you do to get 400 hp out of it without using nitrous. would a tunnel ram help?
 
you have been lots of help. I'm not after lots of hp just more than 300 350 or 400 just want to find out what cam to use the car can handle 400 hp. don't care for more than a 12 second car. just want to be like my old 68 340 swinger I had as a kid it was stock. and I remember racing my brother with his 70 cuda 440 6 pack up to 70 mph it was even and then he would pull away my car just doesn't seem to be the same


An honest 350 horsepower will put you into the 12's if you take the time to sort the car out. Things like double adjustable shocks are worth way more to me than a stroker crank.
 

I bet you could, how much $ ? and knowledge is in this equation.


The $$$$$$ ? Kind of depends on what you have to start with. If you have the block, crank, rods and heads that goes a long way to save money. The less of that stuff you don't have the faster the price goes up. Then you have to add in the cost of your valve train, induction, ignition, exhaust and chassis stuff.

As for knowledge...that's hard to put a price on. I'm to the point I'm only grinding on one more iron set of heads and that's my W-2's. It's getting harder and harder to find guys willing to grind on iron.
Of course that drives the cost up because you have to pay somebody extra to do iron or you have to buy Aluminum and then pay to have those ported.

We have an expensive hobby. More money than being hooked on ******.
 
But if you lower your expectations just a little, to say 330/360, that's a whole new world.
Why is it you always talk down to people and talk them down on there goals? I don’t see a thing wrong with his HP goal and YR is danm dead on. It is easy to make that power and you would have to screw up badly not to fall off your chair and miss it piss drunk.

Now, my wife says I come off sounding condescending all the time, and that is not my intent.I'm just laying it out there.
You should listen to your wife more often. It’s the exacting math, tone of post followed by what YOU think is right followed by the repeating statements of how right you are. There is a lack of info from the OP and you “assume much.”

And we haven't even talked about the maintenance on an 11 second 340 car. This is really not the car you want to jump into and drive a thousand miles.
Why not?!?! 7 years, mechanical cam, adjustable roller rockers, never a problem!
Seriously!!!! A problem power level at 11’s!?!?!

LMAO! Oh yea! He will be under the car weekly just to idle it around the corner.
(Major sarcasm!!! )
 
Go back to post #1, then come back and moan some more. Then read #102.
The OP is not interested in a race motor and hasn't yet reached the understanding that a 400 hp340 engine is more or less a race engine.
He just wants a few more HP in a car he can run across the state to a show, and zip down the track a couple of times and relive his youth.Those lwb darts were 14.5 second cars from the factory. They were 3400 pounds, at the max. Do the math that's a .067 PW, and so 228 hp.
Everybody wants to say that 340s were 295 or 305 or 320 or some number not justified by the mph. They barely made 100 mph on a good day which is 260hp.
They were done,done,done by 85 mph with 3.55s. A big old 440 New Yorker was catching them! for crying out loud. They were only factory fast cuz everything else factory slow, and factory heavy.

And post 102 proves my point.
You all can steal his firstborns college fund and build him an 11 second car, but you can't read between the lines. His very first post, did not say I want an 11 second car and I don't care how much it costs.
I reposted it in 103 in case you forgot it.
You've been spending his money right since post #2, maybe you need to keep a notebook
 
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Go back to post #1, then come back and moan some more. Then read #102.
The OP is not interested in a race motor and hasn't yet reached the understanding that a 400 hp340 engine is more or less a race engine.
He just wants a few more HP in a car he can run across the state to a show, and zip down the track a couple of times and relive his youth.Those lwb darts were 14.5 second cars from the factory. They were 3400 pounds, at the max. Do the math that's a .067 PW, and so 228 hp.
Everybody wants to say that 340s were 295 or 305 or 320 or some number not justified by the mph. They barely made 100 mph on a good day which is 260hp.
They were done,done,done by 85 mph with 3.55s. A big old 440 New Yorker was catching them! for crying out loud. They were only factory fast cuz everything else factory slow, and factory heavy.

And post 102 proves my point.
You all can steal his firstborns college fund and build him an 11 second car, but you can't read between the lines. His very first post, did not say I want an 11 second car and I don't care how much it costs.
I reposted it in 103 in case you forgot it.
You've been spending his money right since post #2, maybe you need to keep a notebook
I think I should bring my car to you and pay you to fix it up. but I do want to learn I'm not to smart when it comes what you are talking about. I'm a body man and got that down pretty good.
 
Here are the post#s of the most important ones
1,5,7,11,12,18,21,23,37,45,67,73,77,92,

And heres what we know; he has 175 or more psi cylinder pressure with flat tops and open chamber heads. What's that tell you? Well it points to a very early closing intake and detonation with iron heads, and that's a real power killer.
He has 4.10s and a GVOD with a 2500TC.
He's got all the right ingredients to go 12s except a cam. So sell him a cam already.
 
Fred
I need some body work done.
And you're only 2 hours from me,lol
My Cuda could be in your garage in half that in a perfect world; I got's me a GVOD too.
that could work out real good. my grage is heated if your ever down this way stop by. I'm not set up yet to paint in it but working on it.
 
Fred
I need some body work done.
And you're only 2 hours from me,lol
My Cuda could be in your garage in half that in a perfect world; I got's me a GVOD too.
going to work now be back at 5:30 we can make this work.
 
Not to you and me
But do you really want to drive an 11 second 340 across country?His primary objective is just that.
I mean that's a 292/509.I have personal experience with that cam; I don't think you can drive 200 miles on a tankful of hi-test. Up here that comes to about 47 cents a mile.
 
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Not to you and me
But do you really want to drive an 11 second 340 across country?His primary objective is just that.
I mean that's a 292/509.I have personal experience with that cam; I don't think you can drive 200 miles on a tankful of hi-test. Up here that comes to about 47 cents a mile.


It doesn't take 400 HP to go 11's. The OP is wanting 12's. You can do that with a warm 340 and not break a sweat. I did it my senior year in high school.
 
Well that's it then, on the strength of two or three witnesses let a thing be.
Print the recipe and let the man spend the money
Be sure to include what needs to be done with the rest of the powertrain, and try to keep it within the OPs budget.
 
Well that's it then, on the strength of two or three witnesses let a thing be.
Print the recipe and let the man spend the money
Be sure to include what needs to be done with the rest of the powertrain, and try to keep it within the OPs budget.


340
10.5:1 compression
2.02 valves with a proper valve job (if you only have 1.88's it'll be fine).
MP 284/.484 cam
Strip Dominator
1.75 headers
3.23 gears
3500 converter or 4 speed

That will get you mid to high 12's all day long. You have to get the compression up, you can't guess. Balance the junk up and go.

It isn't hard. Do it on a stock crank and rods.
 
Well that's it then, on the strength of two or three witnesses let a thing be.
Print the recipe and let the man spend the money
Be sure to include what needs to be done with the rest of the powertrain, and try to keep it within the OPs budget.
That’s the main idea you don’t get.
 
Not to you and me
But do you really want to drive an 11 second 340 across country?His primary objective is just that.
I mean that's a 292/509.I have personal experience with that cam; I don't think you can drive 200 miles on a tankful of hi-test. Up here that comes to about 47 cents a mile.
I have run the Hyd. Purple 292/.509 cam in 2 engines.
Low mileage? Then your doing something wrong. Not that you should be expecting 18/19 mpg’s.
Also, what he is willing to pay per mile is his biz and tolorence level, not yours. You have automatically dumbed down his engine on your opinion, dumbed down the OP due to your opinion.
Disregarded the OP’s wants and wishes due to you opinion.
Mashed his idea into the ground you did.

Hey! Aren’t the Nazi’s like that? My way or your a dumb ****? (Dumb ***** get executed )

Herr AJ, all hail. Raise your right arm in salute.
 
Step one; Set a goal, make a plan, stick to it.

Step 2; Know that there is no shame in a copy cat engine. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. Imitating or copying the engine is the quickest way to horsepower and or your goal.
 
yea there is a lot of things I don't get. trying to get back into cars after 42 years.to many things have changed. But come hell or whatever I will learn.
Step one; Set a goal, make a plan, stick to it.

Step 2; Know that there is no shame in a copy cat engine. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. Imitating or copying the engine is the quickest way to horsepower and or your goal.
amen
 
Step one; Set a goal, make a plan, stick to it.

Step 2; Know that there is no shame in a copy cat engine. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. Imitating or copying the engine is the quickest way to horsepower and or your goal.


Step one is the most important step. Make the plan. Stick to the plan.
 
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