turbo 6 bangers post here

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right so you would make the same cut in the head a little closer to the bore or a little farther out for two sealing rings...

Okay; now I understand. Is that supposed to be a better way than cutting a matching receiver groove for the block O-Ring, in the head?

I'm outta here... Pinks and Pass Time is coming on TV.... that's the only drag racing I get to see lately... :(

'Nite...
 
Nobody ELSE is that dumb Bill! ;) BTW, do you think anybody is interested in Slant 6 turbo headers enough for us to fabricate a master? I have a Slant on the stand and I'm thinking about producing some turbo pieces again. I can use my daughter's car for development as it's a /6 car with power-steering.

just to stir the pot a little. I'm going Pishta's style but.....
if I'm gonna be turbo'ing mine I need a power steering AND aftermarket 508 sanden A/C clearance too! . if you can make that happen I'm in!
 
just to stir the pot a little. I'm going Pishta's style but.....
if I'm gonna be turbo'ing mine I need an power steering AND aftermarket 508 sanden A/C clearance too! . if you can make that happen I'm in!

With the clearance issues you might have in positioning a turbo to allow for power steering AND an A/C compressor and all the plumbing for those systems, a rear-mount turbo back by the back bumper might be the best answer for you. There would be a lot of cold-side fabrication, for sure, but I have heard that those systems work well, and, doing it that way would free up a LOT of room under the hood.

Food for thought....:coffee2:
 
With the clearance issues you might have in positioning a turbo to allow for power steering AND an A/C compressor and all the plumbing for those systems, a rear-mount turbo back by the back bumper might be the best answer for you. There would be a lot of cold-side fabrication, for sure, but I have heard that those systems work well, and, doing it that way would free up a LOT of room under the hood.

Food for thought....:coffee2:

I have thought about that and might have to go that way. I have a 66 more door dart and a hydraulic /6 out of a truck that I will be using that I can strip all the top rusted metal off of and just have the frame rails, rocker panels,floor(what's left of it anyway) inner fenders/core support and assorted stuff still left on there to mock things up.
I was worried about the reliability of the 12v oil scavenger pump though. Anyone ever used one and what is a good model to get? But other than that it would make things a LOT easier to plumb in the engine compartment. and I'm thinking umm 2.5 to 3 inch cold side being mandrel bent to snake back up right by the hot side pipe at the muffler shop.so bassically 2 pipes running down to the turbo and 1 the rest of the way to the rear...
hmm is it after the muffler? or before? looks like I might have to find something that fit's after the Axle to make it work right. I'll have to look into that some more now that you mention it! THANKS

hmm where to put the muffler before or after the turbo?
View attachment !!!where the muffler goes.jpg


DANG that'd be sort of sleeper style too! I wonder what size turbo would fit in that area? bet it would need an internal waste gate to keep the size down and allow the pump to be close by.

ok I was thinking of something similar to this coming out the rear without the dual tip please

whatcha think?
View attachment air inlet and turbo setup.jpg
 
I have thought about that and might have to go that way. I have a 66 more door dart and a hydraulic /6 out of a truck that I will be using that I can strip all the top rusted metal off of and just have the frame rails, rocker panels,floor(what's left of it anyway) inner fenders/core support and assorted stuff still left on there to mock things up.
I was worried about the reliability of the 12v oil scavenger pump though. Anyone ever used one and what is a good model to get? But other than that it would make things a LOT easier to plumb in the engine compartment. and I'm thinking umm 2.5 to 3 inch cold side being mandrel bent to snake back up right by the hot side pipe at the muffler shop.so bassically 2 pipes running down to the turbo and 1 the rest of the way to the rear...
hmm is it after the muffler? or before? looks like I might have to find something that fit's after the Axle to make it work right. I'll have to look into that some more now that you mention it! THANKS

hmm where to put the muffler before or after the turbo?
View attachment 1714643238


DANG that'd be sort of sleeper style too! I wonder what size turbo would fit in that area? bet it would need an internal waste gate to keep the size down and allow the pump to be close by.

ok I was thinking of something similar to this coming out the rear without the dual tip please

whatcha think?
View attachment 1714643242

What "muffler???"

You won't need no steenking "muffler!!!"
:blob:
 
No muffler here:burnout:and I've been told all you can hear is the turbo spooling :blob:it crazy after I take the Toad out for some shake down time and park the car the turbo free wheels for atleast two minutes:D

Bill I don't understand why you had such a hard time with the O Ring project but I'm glad you and Freddie can move forward there's still hope you can get your valiant down the track this year were all pulling for you:happy1:
Fyi I picked up a Isky grm100 from ebay so if you ever need one again there's no need to rent one just let me no....

Toad should be legal next week I've had it out on multiple 5 mile shake downs this week so if all continues going well maybe there's some track time in my future but I've ran 7 pounds thru the gears and the car runs very good and I've just about got the major bugs worked out
Stay tuned
Aaron
 
No muffler here:burnout:and I've been told all you can hear is the turbo spooling :blob:it crazy after I take the Toad out for some shake down time and park the car the turbo free wheels for atleast two minutes:D

Bill I don't understand why you had such a hard time with the O Ring project but I'm glad you and Freddie can move forward there's still hope you can get your valiant down the track this year were all pulling for you:happy1:
Fyi I picked up a Isky grm100 from ebay so if you ever need one again there's no need to rent one just let me no....

Toad should be legal next week I've had it out on multiple 5 mile shake downs this week so if all continues going well maybe there's some track time in my future but I've ran 7 pounds thru the gears and the car runs very good and I've just about got the major bugs worked out
Stay tuned
Aaron

We can turn an easy job into a hard one without even trying, Aaron; it's what we do best and why this thing is taking FOREVER to get to the strip!:banghead:

Thanks for the nice offer of the groove cutter; we may take you up on that at some point in the future!

I always heard you were supposed to let a turbo engine idle for 5 minutes after it had been run. That was supposed to keep the oil in the bearings from heating up and turning to coke, which is super-abrasive.

We forget to do it, sometimes...:violent1:

Sounds like your car is miles ahead of ours at this point, but it shouldn't take us very long to reassemble this engine except for the 13 nuts that go on these 13 studs that hold the manifolds to the heads ,seven of which are a bear to get to.

Send us some video of that thing leaving the line; we are eaten up with curiosity...:D
 
No muffler here:burnout:and I've been told all you can hear is the turbo spooling :blob:it crazy after I take the Toad out for some shake down time and park the car the turbo free wheels for atleast two minutes:D

Bill I don't understand why you had such a hard time with the O Ring project but I'm glad you and Freddie can move forward there's still hope you can get your valiant down the track this year were all pulling for you:happy1:
Fyi I picked up a Isky grm100 from ebay so if you ever need one again there's no need to rent one just let me no....

Toad should be legal next week I've had it out on multiple 5 mile shake downs this week so if all continues going well maybe there's some track time in my future but I've ran 7 pounds thru the gears and the car runs very good and I've just about got the major bugs worked out
Stay tuned
Aaron
post dome video when you get it all good! I'd love to see it
 
post dome video when you get it all good! I'd love to see itQUOTE]

It's been almost three years. When the TOAD is ready ill get some video posted. I changed out the calipers and the brake pedal is too squishy for my likens and the car is on jack stands now I have too bleed the brakes one more time witch ill have done this weekend.
Aaron
 
post dome video when you get it all good! I'd love to see itQUOTE]

It's been almost three years. When the TOAD is ready ill get some video posted. I changed out the calipers and the brake pedal is too squishy for my likens and the car is on jack stands now I have too bleed the brakes one more time witch ill have done this weekend.
Aaron

Hey, if it were easy, everyone would do it!!! LOL:D
 
Hey, if it were easy, everyone would do it!!! LOL:D

Well, the "successful" O-Ring installation I was crowing about a couple of weeks ago, turned out to be not-so-successful.

I noticed that some of the O-Rings seemed to be sticking out of their grooves too much... They are only supposed to stick up .009" above the deck. I pulled some out of their grooves and measured the depth of the grooves and found that some of the grooves were inconsistent in their depth, and some of those were only .010"-deep, not .030" like they were supposed to be.

So, out came the stainless steel O-Rings and the cutter went back in for a second try.:banghead:

This time, they all measured the correct depth, so Freddie decided to out copper wire in them since it was going to be pressed into the metal fire ring of the Fel Pro gasket.

Here's a pic::wack: The head is back on it, now.
 

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Well, the "successful" O-Ring installation I was crowing about a couple of weeks ago, turned out to be not-so-successful.

I noticed that some of the O-Rings seemed to be sticking out of their grooves too much... They are only supposed to stick up .009" above the deck. I pulled some out of their grooves and measured the depth of the grooves and found that some of the grooves were inconsistent in their depth, and some of those were only .010"-deep, not .030" like they were supposed to be.

So, out came the stainless steel O-Rings and the cutter went back in for a second try.:banghead:

This time, they all measured the correct depth, so Freddie decided to out copper wire in them since it was going to be pressed into the metal fire ring of the Fel Pro gasket.

Here's a pic::wack: The head is back on it, now.

Progress report; got the rockers on, the valves are adjusted, the intake manifold and header are on and the rocker arm cover is on.


Still to go are the lines, linkages, vacuum/pressure hoses, turbo mount, and downpipe mount. The cold side plumbing and the carb are still waiting to be installed. But, it's been high 90s in that shed and that's just too hot to work, for us old duffers. We're getting there, though, and probably two more days will do it.

Can't wait to put it on some clocks with 10 pounds of boost and a 3,000-rpm stall. My guess: 12.20 @ 108 quarter mile time, projected from a 1.000-foot time (which is what we have to work with.)

Talk's cheap.... we'll see. :banghead:
 
Well today is D day there's a small 1/8 mile track opening today. After many years of being closed down and I was thinking what better time to bring out the toad then today I'm not sure what to expect today but the car is running good and by all accounts is ready. I'm not planning to push the car to hard today and im interested to see what it. Will do honestly its a hard charging beast at 7psi of boost and if I'm feeling good it may go up to 12 to 15 psi today but the star will need to be aligned just right for that to happen.

STAY TUNED I'LL POST SOME UPDATES LATER TODAY
AARON
 
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