any tips anyone has for this little project much appreciated - got switch from classic industries (OER )and hope it's a decent enough replacement..old one is just worn out -poor contact/intermittent performance for rear turn signals..have had the steering wheel off to tighten up the turn signal lever and inspect the switch but that's about it - am tempted to leave this for next winter so I don't get anything screwed up and lose out on driving time we've been waiting a long while for..thanks!
turn signal switch replacement - 68 barracuda
- Thread starter Dave NEO
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Did your new switch come with the lower plug installed ? If not you may have reuse your old plug housing. Either way that said plug housing will have to be removed to fish the wires through the column. A small pocket screwdriver will be needed to release the tangs that holds the wires in the plug housing.Other than that it is not a big job to R&R the switch.
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Use the right tools and do not use brute force!
Easy job when done right, follow the manual and take pics along the the way. You can damage other items not intended if not careful. That part should work just fine for you!
After battery disconnect, clip the wires one at a time and tie a pull wire to the old. When you get the wheel off and have access remove the old cam and pull it out and pull the wires up. Use the tie wire to pull the new back down. One at time remove the old from the connector and plug the new in color by color. Button it all back up and enjoy! Removing the wiring guide plate cover on the housing will help.
Easy job when done right, follow the manual and take pics along the the way. You can damage other items not intended if not careful. That part should work just fine for you!
After battery disconnect, clip the wires one at a time and tie a pull wire to the old. When you get the wheel off and have access remove the old cam and pull it out and pull the wires up. Use the tie wire to pull the new back down. One at time remove the old from the connector and plug the new in color by color. Button it all back up and enjoy! Removing the wiring guide plate cover on the housing will help.
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thanx guys - no manual but looks straightforward - new switch includes a new male block to plug the new wires into after fishing them and it should match up to the old female block. Guess I've seen such 'simple' stuff go so off course/bad I just sorta sweat these doggone things! Gerald you remind me of my German neighbor who was walking by my front yard and saw me kicking the soccer ball around - I said "the beautiful game", to which he replied, "when it's played properly"....ouch!
"Removing the wiring guide plate cover on the housing will help".
I'm not sure what that is. There is a cover about a 8-10" long on bottom side of column that has a couple screws that might allow it to be removed..is that what you are referring to?
with screws out is does not seem to want to slide either way up or down or come out..
I'm not sure what that is. There is a cover about a 8-10" long on bottom side of column that has a couple screws that might allow it to be removed..is that what you are referring to?
with screws out is does not seem to want to slide either way up or down or come out..
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good stuff - thanks much!
bozvaliant
Well-Known Member
How To Install an Ignition Switch in 1970 Dodge Dart
It's a very good write up that changes the ignition switch that also covers the turn signal switch.
It's a very good write up that changes the ignition switch that also covers the turn signal switch.
Rudy`s Ride
Well-Known Member
You should not have to take the wires out of the connector. That is what the connector is for, you seperate it from harness and fish it through column.
Hope.its a good quality one. Ive heard most repops lasting a few months.
That wire cover is finger/notch fit at top. remove visible hardware at bottom and slide it downward.
I've fished many connectors through columns too. How easy varies with mfgr/brand and year model. In some cases it is pretty much impossible to fit that thing through to column. so... pull the male terminals from the connector. The right tool to release the terminals makes a huge difference. Not many will have a store bought terminal tool kit though. Most need to seek out a substitute. In the case of this round terminal that tool might be a metal tube from a ink pen, from a carburetor, whatever works. Keen sewing needles can defeat those little tangs but that can be time consuming.
Good luck with it.
I've fished many connectors through columns too. How easy varies with mfgr/brand and year model. In some cases it is pretty much impossible to fit that thing through to column. so... pull the male terminals from the connector. The right tool to release the terminals makes a huge difference. Not many will have a store bought terminal tool kit though. Most need to seek out a substitute. In the case of this round terminal that tool might be a metal tube from a ink pen, from a carburetor, whatever works. Keen sewing needles can defeat those little tangs but that can be time consuming.
Good luck with it.
The mount plate may have that wire cover pinched, in a bind. Loosen those 4 bolts might help.
oops - spoke too soon - need to pull wheel again on a rainy day - self-cancelling not working - I seem to recall a spring looking thing with a tang coming down that I needed to get positioned right - need to look at that - does that sound right? appreciate any comments.
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YES
well... guess I'm not having self-cancelling signals- after pulling wheel twice to check it out there seems to be no way that tang engages anything when wheel turns. Maybe it's not sitting at proper position - where is it supposed to be on clock? i.e. (10:00/12:00/2:00/etc.). Could it be missing a sleeve or something that might make it a 'larger diameter' to help it contact with switch when wheel turns.. any other thoughts welcome... #IGiveUp
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Take a picture of the wheel you are using. Mine has a wire ring with a tang.
ok - so looks like this - my measurements tell me the the metal tang should be making contact with the self-cancelling tabs. I see there was room for a very slight adjustment of the entire switch inward that might help bring the wire tang into contact with the nylon cancelling tabs..'spose I'll find out. Look like yours?
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Looks correct for sure.
I used the cam from classic with leads to the connector and had no issue. I did not notice any adjustment in depth. My wheel is the standard 3 spoke stainless but looks the same from the backside.
I used the cam from classic with leads to the connector and had no issue. I did not notice any adjustment in depth. My wheel is the standard 3 spoke stainless but looks the same from the backside.
yea thanks - I think it's good switch, signals working reliably. Ended up grabbing wire tang with vice grips and bent it out a bit hoping it catches cancelling tabs. Will try it out in a.m.; getting blasted with t-storms all night here..
Bending that tang out just slightly made it able to trip the self-cancelling. All is good. Nice to have all lights working and signals self-cancelling. Get a heck of a lot of comments/questions at stoplights..that's ok/fun. ..
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