Two questions...

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Joshua Suehs

Joshua Suehs

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ok... I just replaced my rear springs and front torsion bars with espo +1’s and pst bars. I replaced the rear springs first and everything was fine. Test drove to make sure there were no buns or clunks and filled it up with gas. Then replaced the t bars and when I started it up it ran at a very high idle. I did not change the front ride height to anything more or less than it was when I started. So I am slightly intrigued at why this would be this way. My two questions are, what should the front ride height be on a 73 swinger? It was 27” when before I swapped the bars today so that’s where I put it back. The other question is why would my engine be running at high idle after this repair? Could it be that the change in rake is messing with the carb? Let me know if any of you have seen this. I am planning on getting my alignment done soon and my have my shop take a peak and see if they can tune my carb better. The carb is a Holley 4bbl. Let me know your thoughts! Thanks!
 
No I don't think one problem has anything to do with the other. bad gas, vacuum leak or something else. Your carb is not that sensitive to pitch. Other wise you wouldn't be able to go up hill or down.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
No I don't think one problem has anything to do with the other. bad gas, vacuum leak or something else. Your carb is not that sensitive to pitch. Other wise you wouldn't be able to go up hill or down.
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That was my thoughts too, but I just found it odd. Thanks for the reply. I thought a vacuum leak would cause it to stumble and chug... not run with a higher idle. I guess it could be bad gas. I guess I’ll just have to dig into it some more.
 
As above, nothing is jumping out as a 'cause and effect' relationship. Now if you lowered the ride height and idle dropped back down, then you would be on to something!
 
Changing the rake of a car can effect float level. One of the tricks to altering (fine tuning) a holley style carb is slightly raising or lowering the float level to change AFR with no air bleed or jet changes.
 
mderoy340 said:
Changing the rake of a car can effect float level. One of the tricks to altering (fine tuning) a holley style carb is slightly raising or lowering the float level to change AFR with no air bleed or jet changes.
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The odd thing is it seemed to drive fine with the rake slightly higher. I have a feeling that the gas was still winter blend and is causing it to be a different octane level than I want. I spoke with a friend who this time of year always runs racing fuel to make sure he doesnt get stuck with "bad gas" (not farting around!). I will drive it empty and try some racing fuel and see.

Anyone have the Manufacturers spec on the ride height for the front. I am sure everyone is going to say "it is personal preference", But i have seen a lot of guys with really low front specs on forums and I scratch my head trying to figure out why my number seems so high. A lot of you guys are running 20.5" and mine is around 27. I cant imagine having mine sit that low, but wondering what benefit lower gives?

Thanks for any input!
 
I run the lowest hight per FSM specs, measured at the lower control arm. When you get the hight set correctly, I'd re adjust the float setting on the Holley. Then see where you are.
 
Joshua Suehs said:
The odd thing is it seemed to drive fine with the rake slightly higher. I have a feeling that the gas was still winter blend and is causing it to be a different octane level than I want. I spoke with a friend who this time of year always runs racing fuel to make sure he doesnt get stuck with "bad gas" (not farting around!). I will drive it empty and try some racing fuel and see.

Anyone have the Manufacturers spec on the ride height for the front. I am sure everyone is going to say "it is personal preference", But i have seen a lot of guys with really low front specs on forums and I scratch my head trying to figure out why my number seems so high. A lot of you guys are running 20.5" and mine is around 27. I cant imagine having mine sit that low, but wondering what benefit lower gives?

Thanks for any input!
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I am no pro, but I don't think you are measuring ride height according to the FSM. As I understand it, these unibody cars are not to be measured from anywhere on the sheet metal.

Follow the process and set your ride height according to the FSM. I tried 3 different shops in my area and NOT ONE had any clue how to properly set the ride height. They all claimed to have a "special guy that knows everything" all of them measured from the wheel arch lip. WRONG WRONG WRONG!
 
From bottom of ball joint to "adjustment blade" is supposed to be (spec) 1 7/8 inches (difference) at loaded rest per 73 Dart chassis manual, page 69. If I read that correctly....L (Dart) Model Height (Inches) 2 Dr. Sdn. 1-7/8 (Tolerance ±1/8).
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could just measure the height of 'blade' then subtract height of lower ball joint for a 1 7/8 difference on smooth ground.
 
pishta said:
From bottom of ball joint to "adjustment blade" is supposed to be (spec) 1 7/8 inches (difference) at loaded rest per 73 Dart chassis manual, page 69. If I read that correctly....L (Dart) Model Height (Inches) 2 Dr. Sdn. 1-7/8 (Tolerance ±1/8).
View attachment 1715309484

could just measure the height of 'blade' then subtract height of lower ball joint for a 1 7/8 difference on smooth ground.
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Thanks! Ill do that tonight and see where im at! I really should just up and purchase a manual. Any suggestions to a good place to get a good deal on a real manual?
 
download at mymopar.com... go to Kinkos and print out the entire PDF and 3 ring bind it.
 
Joshua Suehs said:
That was my thoughts too, but I just found it odd. Thanks for the reply. I thought a vacuum leak would cause it to stumble and chug... not run with a higher idle. I guess it could be bad gas. I guess I’ll just have to dig into it some more.
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Does your car idle differently when parked on streets or driveways that vary in angle?
No need to answer, but there's the answer to the "ride height changing the idle" question.
Very likely a vac hose off, or a hangup in the linkage.
This is assuming the carb is clean and there isn't junk in the idle air ports.
Every once in a great while I will count the turns it takes to bottom out the idle mixture screws and then take them out.
I shoot a little WD40 or whatever into the needle holes and then blast them good a hard with compressed air.
The fluid helps with the air to carry any junk out.
Then put your idle mixture screws back where they were, and if the idle changed you had junk in there and it got blown out.
Then reset your mixture where you want it.
 
For a streeter; Easiest fastest way to set the ride height is to cut a block of wood to 6 inches and slide it under the K. If it don't go, crank up the bars, unload the suspension ( roll the car back 3 ft , and back to the starting point), then block it again. Any less than six inches will be funner, but eventually, you will crank it up; if not to 6 then close to it.. Especially with under-the-steering- headers. TTIs can go 5.5 with 24" tall front tires, but your oilpan better not be hanging under the K. For every inch taller front tire, add 1/2 inch to the block.
But with new springs on the back, it may be sitting too high back there for even the factory front specs. If the back is way up and the front way down, handling will suck. Oh and just try to get moving when the snow comes!
A reasonable compromise with a high rear height is 1/4 to 1/2 rake at the extreme ends of the rockers.
Don't forget to level the car from side to side..... at both ends, and I do this with my weight in the saddle since 99% of my traveling is solo..

As to your high idle, curious put purely coincidental.
 
AJ/FormS said:
For a streeter; Easiest fastest way to set the ride height is to cut a block of wood to 6 inches and slide it under the K. If it don't go, crank up the bars, unload the suspension ( roll the car back 3 ft , and back to the starting point), then block it again. Any less than six inches will be funner, but eventually, you will crank it up; if not to 6 then close to it.. Especially with under-the-steering- headers. TTIs can go 5.5 with 24" tall front tires, but your oilpan better not be hanging under the K. For every inch taller front tire, add 1/2 inch to the block.
But with new springs on the back, it may be sitting too high back there for even the factory front specs. If the back is way up and the front way down, handling will suck. Oh and just try to get moving when the snow comes!
A reasonable compromise with a high rear height is 1/4 to 1/2 rake at the extreme ends of the rockers.
Don't forget to level the car from side to side..... at both ends, and I do this with my weight in the saddle since 99% of my traveling is solo..

As to your high idle, curious put purely coincidental.
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Agree w/ this .
 
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