Under Dash and Electrical Upgrades

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JGC403

JGC403

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I want to make a list of everything that needs to be done under the dash and to the interior wiring and engine wiring before the dash goes back in on my 1968 Barracuda. All the electrical upgrades I want to wrap it together in one harness to make it look as stock as possible.

What I have so far on the list is:
1. Windshield Wiper Seal kit, original ones probably leak by now
2. Rebuild wiper arm linkage, originals are probably worn out
3. Space the Heater Blower motor for Big Block valve cover clearance
4. RTE gauge cluster 5 volt limiter
5. Amp meter bypass, convert amp gauge to voltmeter
6. Convert to post 1970 voltage regulator
7. Headlight Relay upgrade
8. electronic ignition upgrade

Are there any other must do's that need to be done that would be difficult to do with the dash in?
 
The left vent box has a flat rubber seal between it and the cowl opening. That one may be OK. The right vent box is part of the heater case and has a thick foam seal above it. This one is more likely deteriorated. I found one curled into the opening and wicking water into that vent box and floor pan.
 
Add grease fitting to the wiper pivots. Easy to do when doing the seals.
 
You might want to look at the heater core also when the heater box is out.
 
Windshield seal done already?
Firewall insulation?
 
We can add more if you really want it! I started a list on mine when I started and it turned into a scroll, Guess your going BB?
 
Inspect the defroster ducts also lube the control cables.
 
Disconnect the bulkhead electrical connectors; clean and burnish them; then re-install.

Check the fuse box to see if any circuits have overheated and burned out any areas of the box.

Solder all the connections to the buss bar in the fuse box with rosin core solder (leave the rivet in place and solder all around the connection).

Inject some silver conductive paste (not dielectric grease) into all of the female spade connectors that attach to the fuse box.
 
Replace dash lights and add under dash footwell LED light strips to improve interior lighting. Add Dynamat and additional insulation to the firewall/footwells.
 
Thanks for the reply's so far, This is exactly what I'm looking for. I want everything to work like new or better than new under there. Hopefully won't have any problems for a long time once its back together.

The windshield seal will be replaced. I'm taking all of the glass out to bead blast the car. New insulation also.

I need to get a heater box, mine is MIA and I'll have that rebuilt.

So the headliner has to go in before the windshield is reinstalled?

halifaxhops said:
We can add more if you really want it! I started a list on mine when I started and it turned into a scroll, Guess your going BB?
Click to expand...
For now to get the car running I'll be pulling the 408 out of my Grand Cherokee and putting that in the car until I can build the Big Block I want for it. But eventually it will be getting a Big Block.

halifaxhops said:
Inspect the defroster ducts also lube the control cables.
Click to expand...
Has anyone done an upgrade with the defrost ducts? I drove my 1976 Duster for an entire year in Pennsylvania and learned that the defrost vents suck in the winter time on these cars.

Bill Crowell said:
Disconnect the bulkhead electrical connectors; clean and burnish them; then re-install.

Check the fuse box to see if any circuits have overheated and burned out any areas of the box.

Solder all the connections to the buss bar in the fuse box with rosin core solder (leave the rivet in place and solder all around the connection).

Inject some silver conductive paste (not dielectric grease) into all of the female spade connectors that attach to the fuse box.
Click to expand...
What is the difference between dielectric grease and silver conductive paste?
 
Last edited:
Hey I use a product that works better IMO than dynamat from HD and is way cheaper. And no there is no smell from it it is on the floor over my exhaust no problems.
roof sealant.jpg
 
What is the difference between dielectric grease and silver conductive paste?

Dielectric grease keeps air and moisture out of a connection and thus helps prevent corrosion. It doesn't improve the conductivity of the connection.

Silver conductive paste helps the connection conduct much better, but it doesn't prevent air, water or corrosion from getting to it.
 
JGC403 said:
So the headliner has to go in before the windshield is reinstalled?
Click to expand...

You can do the Headliner With or without the windshield in place.
But it makes the Job a hell of a lot easier if the glass is out.
 
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