Undercarriage Paint – Herculiner

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adamm

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Happy Friday All, I was looking at a ’74 dart this week and saw an interesting application of Herculiner. The owner had coated the undercarriage and rear wheel wells with it. I know POR15 makes a rubberized product for a similar application, however I’m not sure of the differences between the two. Is there any concern with this approach? I didn’t ask if he treated with a rust preventer prior to painting it. Appreciate any thoughts.
 
with where you are i would walk, or take a ice pick to the hole car... sounds like a cover up to me.

how is the rest of the car?
 
with where you are i would walk, or take a ice pick to the hole car... sounds like a cover up to me.

how is the rest of the car?

Holy Cow! not to start a pissing match cause it just my opinion about my cars.
If someone came over to buy my car and had an ice pick that he was going to use to check my car ,well let's just say he better come with LOTS of money cause the price just went up 20k and at the first poke he bought the car no matter what or would pay for a COMPLETE repair. Because he just ruined the herculiner and let water/moisture an opening to get in and ruin the car. couldn't you just do like I do and reach inside the frame rails to check for weak or damaged sections. there are enough holes in the frame rails to check it all., inner wheel wells you can just push against to see if it's weak.

yeah I know you can fix it but I'd have to strip most of the sections off again to redo it(and herculiner done right is a total b#$%h to get off if done correctly),but I wouldn't have to. Since he'd have already bought it of been in court over malicious damaging a car and I'd have a professional redo it on his dime. I'd pick the most expensive resto place I could to to really nail the guy too! Magnets I can see Ice picks ahhhh not so much.
 
I know several new streetrods that the complete under side of the cars have been done in herculiner or truck bed liner, works fantastic , cleans up with water and and stays black or can be tinted or painted to match body color. wears like iron and is also a sound deadener. going to do bottom of my cuda convt. after new pans are installed as im doing resto. now..

Lon
 
with where you are i would walk, or take a ice pick to the hole car... sounds like a cover up to me.

how is the rest of the car?

It's a roller, no drivetrain, most of the interior is gutted. Body panels were solid with the exception of a couple minor rust spots around the door jams. I did check the trunk and didn't see any issues but didn't check the frame rails at all. I had a magnet in a sock and wasn't able to find any areas it didn't stick.

You do bring up a good point, and I should definitely take a real good look if I get serious about it.

I'm laughing just thinkin about using an ice pick. Can't imagine the look on his face lol.
 
I know several new streetrods that the complete under side of the cars have been done in herculiner or truck bed liner, works fantastic , cleans up with water and and stays black or can be tinted or painted to match body color. wears like iron and is also a sound deadener. going to do bottom of my cuda convt. after new pans are installed as im doing resto. now..

Lon

Thanks for the info. It did sound like a cheaper alternative to mainstream products. I've used it for a truck bed liner before and damn it holds up to some abuse!
 
The 67 valiant I'm restoring has it and I applied it to a CA rust free car.
 
with where you are i would walk, or take a ice pick to the hole car... sounds like a cover up to me.

how is the rest of the car?


I would be careful about it but taking an ice pick to it is a good way to have your head beat in, if someone came here to my yard and started beating on my car for sale you can guarantee he wouldn't leave in his own car!
 
Holy Cow! not to start a pissing match cause it just my opinion about my cars.
If someone came over to buy my car and had an ice pick that he was going to use to check my car ,well let's just say he better come with LOTS of money cause the price just went up 20k and at the first poke he bought the car no matter what or would pay for a COMPLETE repair. Because he just ruined the herculiner and let water/moisture an opening to get in and ruin the car. couldn't you just do like I do and reach inside the frame rails to check for weak or damaged sections. there are enough holes in the frame rails to check it all., inner wheel wells you can just push against to see if it's weak.

yeah I know you can fix it but I'd have to strip most of the sections off again to redo it(and herculiner done right is a total b#$%h to get off if done correctly),but I wouldn't have to. Since he'd have already bought it of been in court over malicious damaging a car and I'd have a professional redo it on his dime. I'd pick the most expensive resto place I could to to really nail the guy too! Magnets I can see Ice picks ahhhh not so much.

no pissing match here. you forget we dont have salt and that crap. he is up north and ive restored cars from up there... car looks great until you blast or dip the car... then there is no window lips, floor pans disappear, etc... a magnet only tells you if there is enough other material to block the magnet, but when the metal is swish cheeze its still gonna probably stick...

besides, there are only a half dozen places that need to be checked, front floor pans, spare tire well and upper shock support (from inside trunk), front and rear of wheel wells. check the lead seams by eye as good as you can (sail panel's, rockers at back of door, etc)

OP:

your posts are not coming up on the thread for me but if i scroll down after hitting reply they come up lol...
 
no pissing match here. you forget we dont have salt and that crap. he is up north and ive restored cars from up there... car looks great until you blast or dip the car... then there is no window lips, floor pans disappear, etc... a magnet only tells you if there is enough other material to block the magnet, but when the metal is swish cheeze its still gonna probably stick...

besides, there are only a half dozen places that need to be checked, front floor pans, spare tire well and upper shock support (from inside trunk), front and rear of wheel wells. check the lead seams by eye as good as you can (sail panel's, rockers at back of door, etc)

OP:

your posts are not coming up on the thread for me but if i scroll down after hitting reply they come up lol...

oops forgot to see where you were posting from and the original poster.
that makes sense to check the car real good in a salt area. I'd never use an icepick (I like living to much) to check a car. just call me chicken:glasses7:

I had to be real careful about some cars I worked on in Michigan, I never knew what I'd run into restoring them until media blasting it. so I always tried to check everywhere before even doing a temporary quote of repairs, plus I always work on distinct grouped style projects. media blast then inspection for a lot better estimate on the work. if I could talk them into it good or I added 30% to the estimate straight up. I got burned too many times on a alleged "Rust Free"southern or California car car That's how I learned to check inside rails and such just to double check the outside surface
 
I used Herculiner on my car floor from fire wall to tail pan . And using rubberized under coating on bottom side of car. But I have tons of pics to prove the floors were replaced new

That looks pretty slick, and bomb proof!
 
That looks pretty slick, and bomb proof!

I was actually thinking of doing this also, maybe a couple of coats under the carpet to deaden the sound of the glass packs. :)

as for bondo detection I like to use those lawyer magnets that come free on your phone books.
 
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