Update on My 64 Dart project

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Finally got the brackets modified for the seats and they are now mounted. My buddy dave is a great fabricator and had thos ebrackets figured out over the weekend.Also have the exhaust re-done to fit the new headers. Dave did that while he had the car up in the air.
 

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Cool car, a lot of work going on.

I see you changed seats to the low backs. What seats are the high backs?


They were ProCar seats. The Rally model. Fortunately I was able to sell them and recoup my money.
 
Ok, all settled on the engine nit noid things that needed to get done. I bought some rubber pads that I cut for the clutch peddle stop. Need to buy some race gas. I may take it out to the track later in June. I need to make a barrier to separate the trunk and the passenger compartment. I have some door panel boards cut out I can use ads patterns for the sheet metal. also looks like I need to put another layer of POR 15.
 
It's been awhile so I thought I would provide an update. Still fighting the clutch set-up. Problem is the pressure plate fingers are hitting the disk when the peddle is depressed. We have done things like adding a clutch peddle stop on the floor and re-enginereered the torqe arm. Still hitting. My buddy Jim thinks the disk is too thick. Next step is to shim the pressure plate. We figure .060 will do it.

Once we have the clutch problem solved I can move on the put in the sheet metal barrier and seal off the trunk area. also still need to pull off the front carb and figure out why tyhe floats keep sticking.

More to come to include pics..

Oh, and the car is for sale.
 
Any chance you have the wrong bell crank in it? I understand there are different lengths, which could lead to your troubles. The bell crank could be modified to reduce the ratio also, which might be a better fix than shimming the pressure plate.
 
The bell crank is from Brewers which is suppose to be specific to the early A using the 10.5" clutch/bell housing. Before we cut the Brewers part we took a stock A body bellcrank and modified it to fit and raised the upper arm and lowered the lower arm thus changing the ratio. Still, the fingers hit when the peddle is fully depressed and that's with a clutch peddle stop. Next step is the shim method of moving the fingers away from the disk. Actually it's what McCloud recomends. If that doesn't work then out comes everything for a better look. It does appear that the disk is larger than the stock .305.
 
Well so much for the brewers Z Bar, ended up using a stock Z Bar cut down. We ended up putting a clutch stop on the peddle. It's a piece of 2X4 for now. I'll make an aluminum piece later. Now, we need to tune the carbs and get the idle straight.


Yes the car is for sale in that I need to move on to my 68 bigblock GTS project.
 
Well I removed the highback buckets and worked the hardware so they fit the new buckets. Here's pictures of the seats. I put an A-100 bucket next to one and they are almost identical. I also adjusted the clutch and adjusted the ride height of the front end.

I still need to fab up a clutch peddle stop but the new haeders install comes first. May do that tomorrow
Ok so I realize that this post is old sorry but what are the low back blue buckets out of ? Thanx.
 
Awesome job, mate! Keep posting progress pictures, can't wait to see the end result. By the way, I noted you are getting some stuff from Legendary Interiors? All the stuff for my 1964 Dart GT came from there, very impressed with the door trims and seat fabrics, however the carpet was too short where it goes up the firewall, leaving a three inch gap between the insulated panels and the top of the carpet. Might be worth asking the question when you order. I'm in Australia, so couldn't be bothered going through the hassle of trying to complain and return the goods, be happy, move on...

IMAG2042.jpg
 
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