Update on My 64 Dart project

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just so you all know a 7 inch wide with stok leafs looks like this..
about 1-1.5 inch clearance

Tires are 225/50R16
Rim Size 16x7
Offset 0
Backside 4

PDR_0349.jpg

PDR_0347.jpg

PDR_0350.jpg



Cerwin

PDR_0349.jpg


PDR_0347.jpg


PDR_0350.jpg
 
daves66valiant said:
Looking sweet. You are a little ahead of me in your resto. Hopefully, I'll close behind soon. It's making me itchy to get my car back together. Did you blast the K-frame and suspension parts before painting or did you have them powder coated?

How about the plumbing? Did you do it yourself or did you order a kit?



Is that the stock leaf spring location? I'm thinking of having my wheels widened to 15x7 with a 4.5" backspacing. How close are the springs? I was thinking I could only get 225/60s back there.
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The springs are moved inboard but the rear end has not been narrowed. If you inboard your springs you can easily get a 245/60/15 with a 4 1/2 offset under the wheel well. I wend with the 235 since I could only get a 4 inch offset with these wheels. American could only go a 4 inch offset with the 15X7. If I had gone to 8 inch then they could get me the offset i wanted.. 15X8 would have caused me more problems with the wheel lip.
 
I went with the Inline tubes stainless steel. I'll have to move the distribution block so that means I'll have to modify the lines going from the M/C to the block. I also need to plumb in the line lock on the front brake line and the prop valve for the rear line.
 
Gotcha. I went ahead and got the do-it-yourself stainless kit from Inlinetube.com since I know I will have routing issues with the tti headers and my hydraulic clutch kit. Just need to plumb the adj proportioning valve from my SSBC kit. Seemed like the best way for me to do it. Although the prebent ones are nice

The springs are moved inboard but the rear end has not been narrowed.
Click to expand...
Is it just the offset hangers and shackles? or the inboard frame kit? Did you have to move the spring perches inboard also?
 
daves66valiant said:
Looking sweet. You are a little ahead of me in your resto. Hopefully, I'll close behind soon. It's making me itchy to get my car back together. Did you blast the K-frame and suspension parts before painting or did you have them powder coated?

How about the plumbing? Did you do it yourself or did you order a kit?



Is that the stock leaf spring location? I'm thinking of having my wheels widened to 15x7 with a 4.5" backspacing. How close are the springs? I was thinking I could only get 225/60s back there.
Click to expand...

I had the K member hot tanked in an actual hot tank, not the water based unit. I was going to powdercoat myself but decided to paint with Hammerite. that way I can modify the K member later without having to spend a lot of time getting the powdercoat off. That stuff is real tough!!
 
Next to powdercoating Hammerite is tough. I had some on a part one time and I played hell getting it off. Even with stripper and bead blasting with an agressive media it still had some paint residue. If you go for the powdercoating make sure you hot tank your K member. If you don't, when they put it in the oven any grease that may still be in there will melt and create a really big mess.
 
dart4forte said:
Next to powdercoating Hammerite is tough. I had some on a part one time and I played hell getting it off. Even with stripper and bead blasting with an agressive media it still had some paint residue. If you go for the powdercoating make sure you hot tank your K member. If you don't, when they put it in the oven any grease that may still be in there will melt and create a really big mess.
Click to expand...

As far as the 4 speed goes I talked to Brewers yesterday. They have everything to make the later bell housing conversion. The only thing they don't have available is the frame bracket. They indicated that it didn't look like they would make one due to the cost of R&D. However, they have a replacement pivot. Since the stock pivot is swedged in all one has to do is remove the old pivot and weld in the newer pivot.
 
Hey glad I found your cars for pre 67 A bodies! I have had my 64 GT Dart since 1974. I am the 2nd owner, it was my Grandma's 64 gt 273. Snappy little car even when it was stock. Long story short, I raced it circle track and then decided speeds over 140+ were to darn fast for made a 1/4 mile car, then an 1/8 mile car out of it when in my teens and early 20's. Had Keith Black make a crank, had a custom isky cam spent more than $5000 back in 1978-79 just on the engine and it was a 8000+rpm 273 .040 over with stock stroke. Trick trans 727 custom planetaries, suspesion and race tires etc. It was not streetable idled about 3000 rpm's with only 2" vac, and had a 3900 stall convertor and 2.71 circle track & 4.56 drags. Needed 105+ oct

Anyway I am on the 2nd restore much older now mid 40's and decided to stuff a 340 stoker 416 in it that runs on pump gas so I can still blow away chevy's and drive the car to shows etc. ... The body is still in good shape, I have converted now to front disc and want to make the car run good and strong but put it as a driver on the street. So I need some help.

In the old days I ran like E60 14's in the rear and they would just make it. When I went to the drags with the bigger slicks I ran air shocks and lifted it over the tires to stuff 9 1/2 and 10" slicks on it.

But I want the clean look like you guys have and here is what I am looking at. Please advise. Thanks and awesome cars guys! I also found that the cragar SS wheels are available from WWW.NEWSTALGIAWHEEL.COM
1-800-281-2819.

So here is what I am looking at:

The Rims will be available 14x6, 14x7, 15x6, 15x7 and 15x8

Specs on 14"
P195/70R14 BFG T/A Radial,Overall Diameter 24.8", Cross Section 7.9"
P205/70R14 BFG T/A Radial,Overall Diameter 25.4", Cross Section 8.2"
P215/60R14 BFG T/A Radial,Overall Diameter 24.2", Cross Section 8.7"
P225/60R14 BFG T/A Radial,Overall Diameter 24.7", Cross Section 9.0"

specs on 15"
P195/60R15 BFG T/A Radial,Overall Diameter 24.2", Cross Section 7.9"
P205/60R15 BFG T/A Radial,Overall Diameter 24.7", Cross Section 8.2
P215/65R15 BFG T/A Radial,Overall Diameter 26.0", Cross Section 8.7"
P215/60R15 BFG T/A Radial,Overall Diameter 25.2",Cross Section 8.7"
P225/60R15 BFG T/A Radial,Overall Diameter 25.6", Cross Section 9.0"

Kind of like this size for the height and seems rear width would be decent and should fit?
P215/65R15 BFG T/A Radial,Overall Diameter 26.0", Cross Section 8.7"
On a 15x7 center offset rim? or what do I need for offset and could I go larger on the rear without moving the springs from stock location?

And was thinking about this for the front end. I have front disc brakes too.
P195/70R14 BFG T/A Radial,Overall Diameter 24.8", Cross Section 7.9"
On a 14x6 center offset rim? Offset sizes for disc help needed too!

Sorry for all the questions. I was an old time racer and we used drum brakes, went straight and fast, and on the circle track just used standard offsets and trued and balanced racing goodyears. I used to run at Ontario speedway in socal, but that was ripped out a long time ago. I grew up only a few mile from Irwindale speedway before it was cloed too. Now I am up in WY near Montana..

Thanks all
Dyno Dave
 
Well guys, the motor is now at the shop. This thing is going to run like a scaulded dog. I can't go into great detail on the specs in that I am sworn to secrecy on some of the little tricks done to the motor. Needless to say this puupy will wind. I painted the motor this evening so i'll have to wait before I pull all the making tape to get some pics. I practiced with the flaring kit today and didn't do so good. I may just mock some rod up anf havbe some lines made up. I just don't want to be chasing leaks. Anyway, I'll get some pics in the next few days.
 
Get a good tool. That's key. Don't use a pipe cutter either they get dull after a while. Better to use a fine cut-off wheel. De-burring is key too. It took me about ten tries on some old stuff to get consistently good results. Practice is all it takes. Goodluck.

A screaming 273. I like it.
 
dart4forte said:
Well guys, the motor is now at the shop. This thing is going to run like a scaulded dog. I can't go into great detail on the specs in that I am sworn to secrecy on some of the little tricks done to the motor. Needless to say this puupy will wind. I painted the motor this evening so i'll have to wait before I pull all the making tape to get some pics. I practiced with the flaring kit today and didn't do so good. I may just mock some rod up anf havbe some lines made up. I just don't want to be chasing leaks. Anyway, I'll get some pics in the next few days.
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Guys, here's the pics of the engine, nothing too exciting. I would of showed the valvetrain but the motor is pretty much buttoned up to prevent moisture from getting inside. I'll get some pics of the valve train when the shop is a little warmer.

John

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For those of you interested here is the early A body later bell housing (340/360) conversion parts I just got from Brewers. The Z bar is out at the shop so I'll have to get a pic of it tomorrow.

MVC-020F.JPG
 
Wish they had these back when I ran a 4 gear! I had to make my own back in 78.
 
Ya I wish they would had that stuff before I took the time to find all the orginal parts that I'm using right now.

Lee
 
Lee that is a 340 right? So is that dual quad a modified 273-318 version or were you able to get a hold of the discontinued 340 version?
 
djwhog said:
Lee that is a 340 right? So is that dual quad a modified 273-318 version or were you able to get a hold of the discontinued 340 version?
Click to expand...

If you are referring to me, that is a Offy 273 manifold.
 
dart4forte said:
If you are referring to me, that is a Offy 273 manifold.
Click to expand...

I was a little lost there too, I'm sure he was meaning you. That's a sweet looking motor, man.


Lee
 
moparlee said:
I was a little lost there too, I'm sure he was meaning you. That's a sweet looking motor, man.


Lee
Click to expand...

Thanks. I like to keep others up to date in that it might help others with their projects. I've put a similar series on another site but it gets lost with all my dog/cat died and wo is me threads.
 
Sorry guys for not updating lately, been busier that a one legged man at an *** kickin contest!!! I have not made much progress lately, waiting for a metering block to finish the plumbing from the master cylinder to the linelock. I now have the bare block, bell housing tranny case and tailshaft to start mockup of the headers, starter and insure adequete clearance for the brake lines. I also now have the braided caliper to hard lines so i'll be able to button up that portion. I need to figure out how the window trim goes back in so I can replace the glass and gaskets. Any help there would greatly be appriciated. I'm still trying to determine if i need to notch the K member to clear the Milodon pan. Oh, I also POR 15'd the floor pans. Note to self, wear rubber gloves next time.
 
Well I didn't get a whole lot accomplished this past week. Seems I misplaced my motor mounts so that put me way behind on the mockup. I went ahead and ordered a Schmacker Kit so hopefully I'll get that by the end of the week. I did get all the trim polished yesterday. I also got the gas tank ready to install but I was held up becaues the nut on the J bolt is frozen on and won't come off. I went ahead and ordered one from Yearone. The goal for this next week is to get the mounts in and place the mockup into the engine bay.
 
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