Upper A Arm Bushing "Tricks"

-
71340Duster

71340Duster

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2014
Messages
12,105
Reaction score
17,797
Location
Oak Harbor WA
Working on 71 duster and trying to get upper A arms bolted up but bushings aren't "in" enough. I had the whole K frame rebuilt down at Les Schwab and it looks like the bushings aren't fully seated. I tried running a carriage bolt though and hit it with air ratchet but no budgie. Any ideas out there, I'm trying to avoid removing the upper ball joint. Heat??? I'm afraid of melting the bushings. Any advice is appreciated.
 
Can you actually see a gap? The upper a arms have a collar that the bushing presses against that can make it seem as though it's not fully seated.
 
Yes but my paint isn't helping, may wire brush it up. It appears that there is a welded collar on both ends of the A arms, one side appears to be taller than the other. If the bushing has a metal outer sleeve, then I believe I can see at least 1/8" on both bushings.
 

Attachments

  • IMAG01274.jpg
    29.8 KB · Views: 471
The bushing is supposed to flare out. I'd have to have it in my hands to determine the problem, BUT if this is how the tire shop delivered the parts to you I would be worried about the rest of it, especially the LCA bushings.
 
For future reference, look at the UCA's in the picture, how the bushing is supposed to be pressed up against the collar.
Hope it helps you out.
 

Attachments

  • 73-76 UCA's 3 pairs 002 (Small).jpg
    37.3 KB · Views: 458
I can imagine one bushing seized in the bore and then outer shell mushroomed under pressure. if all 4 are identically misfit, wrong bushings.
If you'll purchase again, Moog offset bushings are a popular choice. Improves alignment for radial tires.
 
Jim Lusk said:
The bushing is supposed to flare out. I'd have to have it in my hands to determine the problem, BUT if this is how the tire shop delivered the parts to you I would be worried about the rest of it, especially the LCA bushings.
Click to expand...

Is there anything in particular I can see with the LCS bushings? I ask because if I can't get these pushed in, I'm pulling the K frame and taking it down the street to Les Schwab.
 
hemi71x said:
For future reference, look at the UCA's in the picture, how the bushing is supposed to be pressed up against the collar.
Hope it helps you out.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the pic and no mine aren't seated like that. I assume the metal washers need to be inside the mounts too, is that correct? That question should quickly point out MY experience level with suspension work HA!
 
RedFish said:
I can imagine one bushing seized in the bore and then outer shell mushroomed under pressure. if all 4 are identically misfit, wrong bushings.
If you'll purchase again, Moog offset bushings are a popular choice. Improves alignment for radial tires.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I know they are Moog but can't see a part number, however I have the paperwork from Schwab, I'll check it for the part number used.
 
I verified the upper control arm bushing part number, looks right at Moog K-7103. Does anyone think cleaning off light coat of paint and spraying with penetrant will help move these or do they need to come off the k frame and go into a vice? Today I think I'll try to put a socket or pipe on one end and run a 12 inch carriage bolt through both arms and crank it down again, I dunno.
 
71340Duster said:
Is there anything in particular I can see with the LCS bushings? I ask because if I can't get these pushed in, I'm pulling the K frame and taking it down the street to Les Schwab.
Click to expand...


If your lower control arms are done properly, they will look like this, when done.
 

Attachments

  • LCA's 62-76 A Body #2 006 (Copy).jpg
    46.1 KB · Views: 364
65 Dartman said:
Do on e side at a time, otherwise you're liable to bend/distort the UCA
Click to expand...

I ran the bolt down pretty hard the first time, I'll have to measure and hope for the best. I thought about that, but thought the bushing would give first, maybe not.
 
The first time (and the second time) I rebuilt a Mopar front end I had NO IDEA what I was doing (1978 and 1986), but got it together properly. They aren't that hard, but some of these shops today have suspension guys who know nothing. I have used a vise as a press in the distant past, but these days all control arm bushings are installed using my 12 ton press.
 
Jim Lusk said:
The first time (and the second time) I rebuilt a Mopar front end I had NO IDEA what I was doing (1978 and 1986), but got it together properly. They aren't that hard, but some of these shops today have suspension guys who know nothing. I have used a vise as a press in the distant past, but these days all control arm bushings are installed using my 12 ton press.
Click to expand...

I hear what you are saying, when I dropped this K frame off, the guy I was giving it to told me of a 71 Demon he had in his back yard. He had mopar experience, asked questions about the ride height I desired etc. Tomorrow morning I'm pulling the k frame out and taking it back to them, I don't have a bearing press and after paying what I did for this work, think they need to fix it.
 
That bushing almost appears to be the wrong one. It looks to be too long.And very definitely not fully seated. There should not be any sleeve or collar slipped onto the bushing before it is pressed into the arm. The collar is supposed to go on last. It's function is to keep the bushing from migrating.
It's really hard to see much in your picture.The scale is off,somehow.

It appears the you have an after-market "K", designed for a different set-up.
The factory K has nothing whatever to do with the UCA mounts
 
Got it pulled and down to shop yesterday, pick it up today hopefully the bushings are pressed in correctly this thing is a pain to move around. Sorry about the sideways photos, even with editor they seem to be posting that way.
 

Attachments

  • K Frame.jpg
    33 KB · Views: 220
  • Front End - Copy.jpg
    32.1 KB · Views: 232
AJ/FormS said:
It appears the you have an after-market "K", designed for a different set-up.
The factory K has nothing whatever to do with the UCA mounts
Click to expand...

He just has the control arms bolted to the spindles already....

About those guys that know nothing at the shops..... I ask people all the time for the last 8 characters of their VIN# to get parts lists and they find that too hard! "Can I just give you the whole thing!" We have generations of idiots!
 
Well, looking at post #3, it looks nothing like any A-body, I have ever seen.
And to what end will removing the K help, in resolving an UCA mounting issue?
None. Zero. Cuz the UCAs normally mount to the car, unless you have an aftermarket front-end.Which seemed the logical conclusion to me; from the #3 pic and the OPs eagerness to pull the K.
Now we see the K in all it's shiny glory, looking just like a factory 340 K.
And no UCA mounts on it. So what will it help to return it to the original installer?
None. Zero.Cuz the UCAs normally mount to the car.

Or what did I miss?
 
I've installed the upper bushings with a vise...

Put a long deep well on the inside of the bushing that will allow that end inside of it...

Then use a standard socket large enough to fit over the small metal bushing, but still able to contact the ring of the outer bushing and crank them in the vise until they seat on the control arm....

If your bushings are not in all the way, you can use that method to push them in further...
 
I used the Auto Zone ball joint press (substituted for the thread-all or 6.5" bolt) with the sockets. Looks like a big C clamp. Worked okay, free rental but had to put down $120 for deposit. Good motivation to get job done.

Moog bushings through NAPA - three of four bushings were okay, but the fourth was not okay in the box. Pressed together wrong during manufacture. Exchanged
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top