Use a table ban saw to hack off the 340 piston crown .

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Gonna try now to take a dome off, starting blade at position of pointer pen...attached photo

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Sorry for the wait...I had to make a couple modifications to get a better clamp on the short skirt piston.
 
Why not just buy flattop pistons to begin with? Machine shops have the proper equipment to do things like this. Are going to balance the pistons yourself?
 
Why not just buy flattop pistons to begin with? Machine shops have the proper equipment to do things like this. Are going to balance the pistons yourself?
dan, you're late to the party. go back to the 1st page and read the whole wonderful, terrible, no good, very bad idea from the beginning.

also, he doesn't believe in paying machine shops. so, go in knowing that.
 
dan, you're late to the party. go back to the 1st page and read the whole wonderful, terrible, no good, very bad idea from the beginning.

also, he doesn't believe in paying machine shops. so, go in knowing that.
I did read some of the very beginning of this screwed up idea he has. I can't believe that someone would screw up a set of pistons like he is going to do. Does he even know if he'll have enough thickness left over to keep the piston from coming apart? If he doesn't believe in machine shop work I'm willing to bet that his engine will have some serious vibration issues.
 
I believe he has been successful in creating one hilarious troll thread. Zero chance he is serious
 
Hey, Dan, these are just junk pistons...an experiment. But your right, my different set is going to the machine shop...no way in hell am I gonna do the balance my self. Mr. Mopar official gets the praise.
 
I did read some of the very beginning of this screwed up idea he has. I can't believe that someone would screw up a set of pistons like he is going to do. Does he even know if he'll have enough thickness left over to keep the piston from coming apart? If he doesn't believe in machine shop work I'm willing to bet that his engine will have some serious vibration issues.
Not screwing anything good, believe me .
 
Not screwing anything good here....we down graded to experiment status...mmostly because of the clamp that came with the band saw is needing modified still....so update is one more delay til the near future...tomorrow or next.
 
Why not just buy flattop pistons to begin with? Machine shops have the proper equipment to do things like this. Are going to balance the pistons yourself?
I got my correct pistons I want....yes, they and the crank will get machine shop/ Proper balance.
 
This junk piston will undoubtely end up looking like a donut with a hole in the middle if someone were to install it . And fire up the engine...so ,yes the crown/top I believe is too thin...it even looked thin before I started the hack.
 
I did half cut on the dome...ran into bracket/ clamp interferane....sooo, I think this thread is bout over. Still can't figure out how to insert a short video. Final pictures maybe in a few days. Mr Mopar official doesn't recommend the band saw procedure, neither do I, We are brothers now. Ha Ha
 
I did half cut on the dome...ran into bracket/ clamp interferane....sooo, I think this thread is bout over. Still can't figure out how to insert a short video. Final pictures maybe in a few days. Mr Mopar official doesn't recommend the band saw procedure, neither do I, We are brothers now. Ha Ha
 
Ebay, JE pistons, 7 for $60 , yes they are new... But who knows what they fit...my neighbors 3 boys all a birthday this month....guess what they will get to display on there dresser? Each a sshiney new piston.
Then I can understand why you did what you did, nothing wrong with doing a experiment.
 
The crown/ top of piston was too thin...just as I/we figured. But what I really wanted is to see if it would be too difficult for the blade to cut thru forged aluminum . It wasn't. The Saw did it's job but the clamp /jaw needs improvements to be feasible and all the JE pistons , seems are thin on the top. Maybe a forged TRW dome piston is thicker? Either way, this experiment / thread is now reached its end. Sincerely Jesse. And if everyone got a few laughs..."nothing wrong with that".

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The crown/ top of piston was too thin...just as I/we figured. But what I really wanted is to see if it would be too difficult for the blade to cut thru forged aluminum . It wasn't. The Saw did it's job but the clamp /jaw needs improvements to be feasible and all the JE pistons , seems are thin on the top. Maybe a forged TRW dome piston is thicker? Either way, this experiment / thread is now reached its end. Sincerely Jesse. And if everyone got a few laughs..."nothing wrong with that".

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**** me running. This place is off its rocker.

Its not that the dome wasn’t “thick enough”, it’s that you blew through the valve pockets.

This is what frustrates people who actually do this ****. Some monkey ******* a basketball, trying to reinvent the wheel, back yard shade tree ghetto bullshit.

Im all for learning on your own and being self taught but really?? All you had to do was THINK first.
 
Simple basic measurement of the valve pockets would have told you all the info you needed.
Measure once cut none.
 
Simple basic measurement of the valve pockets would have told you all the info you needed.
Measure once cut none.
Dont have a heart attack...I knew the top of the piston was too thin before I started the cut. Even a mill on the top of any JE piston, regardless of the design is taboo, in my opinion after looking at all 7 that came too me from ebay.
 
Straight cut....valve pockets where too low... Remember this, JE piston was prototype/ R&D from them. No surprise here,and measurements in this situation would been a waste of time...a thcik head piston might have warrented someone to take time before a mill, but not in this situation

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The only thing this thread proved was your a hack with a powered hack saw.
Do you know how tools work that measure?
 
That "R&D NOT FOR SALE" piston is cool! Do you want to sell me one unmolested piston? Send me a PM if so. Crazy thread, that's all I can say. Thanks.
 
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