using a windage tray during breakin?

[Rapid Robert]

just saw a utube vid which believes that a windage tray should not be used during breakin as it blocks oil splash to the cam. I am not sure I would want to pull the pan to remove it after a breakin. is there anything to this? thank you for your time. RR

 

[Kendog 170]

Broke in both my 340 and RB 500 stroker with windage trays on. Use plenty of lube. I read that somewhere too. I can understand why but feel like you do. I could see installing gaskets dry for break-in then put it in if it was on a test run stand.

 

[TT5.9mag]

Break it in how it will be run in the car, with one exception, the valve springs. If dual or triple take out everything but the outer spring. Reinstall after break in.

 

[Plymouth 65]

All of the Mopar engines I have broke in had windage trays on them. Never had any issues. 65

 

[Locomotion]

just saw a utube vid which believes that a windage tray should not be used during breakin as it blocks oil splash to the cam. I am not sure I would want to pull the pan to remove it after a breakin. is there anything to this? thank you for your time. RR

Don't watch any of that person's videos! Sounds like someone is trying to "stand out" and attract attention with off-the-wall ideas.

 

[NC Engine Builder]

You dont think Chrysler broke in new engines and then took the pan off to install the tray afterwards do ya? I've been breaking them in with the tray in place for 40 years. Never a issue

 

[MoparLeo]

Sounds like advice for a model Ford T-engine with no oil pump.

 

[Professor Fate]

Pure unadulterated B.S.
If you have oil "splash", your crankcase is waaay too full. Or it's a Briggs & Stratton.
Besides, the windage tray is UNDER the crank, not between the crank and cam- so how could that possibly block anything?

 

[NC Engine Builder]

It wouldn't matter if ZERO oil slung off the crank, prime one with the intake off and you will see 16 lifters drown the cam with oil continuously

 

[Rapid Robert]

excellent info/advice. OK I will use it & call it good & for sure do the std prep items for a successful cam breakin, thanks guys! RR

 

[Newbomb Turk]

Don't watch any of that person's videos! Sounds like someone is trying to "stand out" and attract attention with off-the-wall ideas.

What channel is this.

 

[Rapid Robert]

it was a utube vid by lake speed jr "the motor oil geek". I looked for quite awhile & couldn't find it

 

[Rapid Robert]

I'm a utube addict & I am going to try some more to find it as I may have misinterpreted its message

 

[Texas Red]

All of the Mopar engines I have broke in had windage trays on them. Never had any issues. 65

I agree with all the folks saying they left it in place Robert. I did on my 410 CID flat tappet Clay Smith cams
No issues..... I have a 491 lift set up in my Engine... with a windage tray...........

 

[Killer6]

it was a utube vid by lake speed jr "the motor oil geek". I looked for quite awhile & couldn't find it

Are You sure He wasn't talking crank scrapers? Some engines(like Slantys) do rely on an amount of oil thrown off the rods/crankpins, scrapers can reduce the amount thrown on the cam, but windage trays are for just that....controlling windage from the crank pushing/pulling oil out of the sump. They often have means of recovering some oil off the crank, so it isn't trapped above the tray, but no way should that stop oil from reaching a cam. I'll have to watch that vid, I enjoy Lake & His engine builder buddy, He's usually pretty straight up......the Rotella Diesel oil in SI gas engine was a tad hinkey...as they only tested DI gasoline units.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I have a windage tray on the slant 6 I just assembled today and I'm gonna light fire to it and never look back.

 

[perfacar]

probably was about crank scrappers. if they are set too close to crank. they will prevent enough oil to reach cam i know of a guy that did that, lost two cams before he moved it out, from the crank. min distance should be about .060 just food for thought.

 

[Newbomb Turk]

probably was about crank scrappers. if they are set too close to crank. they will prevent enough oil to reach cam i know of a guy that did that, lost two cams before he moved it out, from the crank. min distance should be about .060 just food for thought.

I was thinking about that earlier tonight. I have a crank scraper and it has a Teflon insert so it runs at almost zero clearance.

I do not want to break in the cam, pull it back of the dyno, put the scraper on it and then put it back on the pump.

It’s a PITA to get the pan sealed tight with the scraper on it and it would be much more of a PITA trying to do it on the dyno.

Maybe it’s time for a roller cam…

 

[StreetSleeper]

Break it in how it will be run in the car, with one exception, the valve springs. If dual or triple take out everything but the outer spring. Reinstall after break in.

(A)Is there a different approach with conical or beehive valve springs?

They have less seat pressure.**

(B) An rpm limit?**


(?C)I have heard on here not only break-in above 2000 (1*) rpm (and constantly vary the rpm while doing so for about 20 minutes) but also run the engine during break-in at the rpm’s that you will use or operate the engine at.

(D)Yellow rose said (later/afterwards) to never idle an engine below 700rpm for sufficient oiling (1*so then why is running at 2000 rpm so important then?)

(E) is there an rpm limit if the engine doesn’t have the oiling mods?

(F) Any extra considerations for flat tappet cams (besides recommending going roller or solid flat tappet)?

(G) when breaking-in an engine, if we have old iron heads, should we limit seat/valve spring pressure during cam selection because we do not have hardened valve seats? I heard Mopar heads are good but other makes are a roll of the dice without hardened valve seats.


Thank you for all that contribute!!!!!!!!!

Thank you very much for the wisdom that you share!!!

 

[RustyRatRod]

I was thinking about that earlier tonight. I have a crank scraper and it has a Teflon insert so it runs at almost zero clearance.

I do not want to break in the cam, pull it back of the dyno, put the scraper on it and then put it back on the pump.

It’s a PITA to get the pan sealed tight with the scraper on it and it would be much more of a PITA trying to do it on the dyno.

Maybe it’s time for a roller cam…

See if you were a big block guy, you'd get to see how easy the big block windage tray/crank scraper "sammich" is to work with. lol

 

[9secRR]

i haven't used a windage tray for years. no need for it

 

[Newbomb Turk]

See if you were a big block guy, you'd get to see how easy the big block windage tray/crank scraper "sammich" is to work with. lol

Yeah, but it’s much less effective with the retarded skirted block.




















Going to put on my flame proof clothes because the skirted block crowd will be puking fire out their mouths like dragons for my comment.

Truth is hard.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Yeah, but it’s much less effective with the retarded skirted block.




















Going to put on my flame proof clothes because the skirted block crowd will be puking fire out their mouths like dragons for my comment.

Truth is hard.

But, but, but......retarded is right up your alley. lol

 

[Newbomb Turk]

But, but, but......retarded is right up your alley. lol

Ok, if you are going to point out FACTS that I can’t dispute I won’t know what to do….

 

[AJ/FormS]

You guys know those lil pockets between every pair of lifters, that used to collect lead in the days of leaded gas? Well, I drilled and chamfered a hole in every pocket, so now, any oil that finds it's way there, is gonna fall down. and I know the cam is not directly under any hole, but I also know that my engine is only stationary when the car is stopped, lol; so, when the car is moving, where exactly is the oil dripping to? Answer; IDK, but since I drilled those, I haven't flatted a cam. Coincidence? Maybe.
And yes, I have a Milodon tray in my 8 qt Milodon roadrace pan, in the which I rarely run more than 6 qts.
and yes, I run an HV oilpump, so I can send extra oil to the topend to lube my unbushed alloy 1.6 arms, and to cool my valve springs, on those many many 7200rpm blasts.
and yes, I had to modify my OOTB Eddys for additional drainback. I just ground some channels at the firewall ends of the heads. Before that, my valves were swimming in oil.
Oil pressure?
IDK, my factory gauge is not calibrated, lol.
I always think that at 7000rpm, that is 120 rpm per second. If the engine develops a problem at speed, she's done-for, no matter what the gauge says. So then, the gauge is just telling me what my ears already heard.
Is it working?
I guess so, cuz the engine was birthed in 1999, and last opened in 2004 for a new cam, and now has over 125,000 miles on that combo. I don't drive it much at all any more; that part of my life is over.