V8 into a 65 cuda ?

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There is still some running and driving V8/904 cars around in this area that can be owned for $500 or less. I have bought a bunch in the $200 bracket and pulled the drive trains out and have them stored. Doing it that way you have all the brackets and the what knots so the swap can be done pretty reasonable and you have a junker to sell at the end if you are willing to do the work.
 
Ok thanks to you all for helping me . I do have most of the stuff to put bbp under it So she will have disks up front no matter what motors going to be in it . I have a 8 1/4 rear end outta a 73 yup duster . the gas linkge is already been updated to cable . As for the stock shifter it would not hurt my feelings to change it as long as i keep it in the floor . lance the drive shaft price helped me alot there i was thinking like 150 bucks lol , Heres one more ? . Is the idaler arm or pitmen are diff ? cuz ive done got them for the slanty .
 
Dart_Doctor said:
Ok thanks to you all for helping me . I do have most of the stuff to put bbp under it So she will have disks up front no matter what motors going to be in it . I have a 8 1/4 rear end outta a 73 yup duster . the gas linkge is already been updated to cable . As for the stock shifter it would not hurt my feelings to change it as long as i keep it in the floor . lance the drive shaft price helped me alot there i was thinking like 150 bucks lol , Heres one more ? . Is the idaler arm or pitmen are diff ? cuz ive done got them for the slanty .
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The drive shaft price may not be the same here so don't count on that number being accurate.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
The drive shaft price may not be the same here so don't count on that number being accurate.
Click to expand...
all the places i called varied from 65 to 80 bucks. it was called Driveline Services here. they did it all , installed my new U joints, wacked 4 inches out of it , speed balanced it and put on my 727 yoke. great guys that ive never used before. i worked with a couple guys that chop and weld their own that dont even balance them and run them. if you leave the 7 1/4 for a while and use a 904 , you wont even have to touch your driveshaft.
 
I would say dont put the cart in front of the horse. Get the car driveable first being you dont have alot of money to throw around. You can collect the swap parts in time.
 
chryslerfat said:
I would say dont put the cart in front of the horse. Get the car driveable first being you dont have alot of money to throw around. You can collect the swap parts in time.
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thats the plan i just need to know what i need to collect lol
 
fix the car with what you have first.....redo the brakes maybe an upgrade redo the front suspension fix the body fix the interior then think about a new set of tires and a paintjob....be realistic...if you cant afford to fix the car with what you have then how are ya gonna be able to put a v 8 in there????? doesnt take a genius to understand that the car can be made nice first then add all that nonsence v 8 stuff later does it? JMO
 
I would tell you to keep it simple safe KISS methodology as I put it! My 65 formula s has a 318, 4bbl nice set up runs low 15 high 14 qm! 14 in rally wheels and 81/4 rear end. trans is set up for running track and been well built 904, with upgraded driveshaft to modern ujoints. Front disc brakes dual master cylinder set up for safety also. You pump the gas pedal three time and turn the key she starts right up every time, as she also sits most of the time here in chicago, especially now it is snowy winter! Front end is also rebuilt with modern kit and good shocks! I just do what I can a little at a time and make it fun to drive and safe! Next on the block is electrical rebuild kit and paint job and she is fully restored! Oh and a nice stereo sitting in my house just waiting to go in need a new antenna. Not orignial anymore so going for fun driver!

65 Cudalover!
 
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