Valve pocket/bowl hog tools....

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'63GT said:
What test pressure?
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I'm banking on the "real" standard of 28", and that sounds about right, more than that is difficult & usually ends up with some filling/welding unless You're ridiculously lucky w/the most gifted of heads. I managed 192cfm w/a 1.88" max-wedge exh valve on the intake, but the bowls aren't meaty enuff to make 'em flow at higher lifts, and that was on a 3.500" bore.....................there was more there, but I shelved the test-head temporarily.....15yrs ago!!!!!:eek:

Which BTW, is approx. 2X the flow of an untouched port w/a stock valve and valve-job............
 
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I saw over on the .org site where Doug Dutra was telling someone that big block exhaust valves were a "better" choice for valves than 318 valves. He said the 1.81 or 1.74 exhaust as the intake and the 1.50 exhaust as the exhaust with some trimmed off. I'm still trying to figure out WHY he says that. They have .100" more stem length, which isn't needed. TO me the 318 valves are the better choices, since they are closer to being the correct percentage VS the bowls. The big block valves would make that percentage off balance, IMO. In any event, I am using the 318 valves.
 
carbide bits off amazon and a electric cord drill, i used two bits ported out 3 slant heads 30.00$ for both
 
Killer6 said:
I'm banking on the "real" standard of 28", and that sounds about right, more than that is difficult & usually ends up with some filling/welding unless You're ridiculously lucky w/the most gifted of heads. I managed 192cfm w/a 1.88" max-wedge exh valve on the intake, but the bowls aren't meaty enuff to make 'em flow at higher lifts, and that was on a 3.500" bore.....................there was more there, but I shelved the test-head temporarily.....15yrs ago!!!!!:eek:

Which BTW, is approx. 2X the flow of an untouched port w/a stock valve and valve-job............
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thank you for that Killer6 ! :)
Yes, that sounds great! I messed with a 225 head for a buddy once, quite some time ago.. it was a workout, to and from the Flowbench! yikes! I was using 10" back then.
Pretty awesome to see such enthusiasm in the 6. :)
 
Slightly Bigger Valves in the Slant head

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With as long a stroke as the 225 has, I am building for torque. the HP can just "fall" wherever it does.
 
Why would one ever use an exhaust valve as an intake?
The underside shape of an exhaust valve is typically like a tulip, to blend the flow back into a stream. The underside of an intake valve is like a nail head. Flat to spread the flow out,,,
RustyRatRod said:
I saw over on the .org site where Doug Dutra was telling someone that big block exhaust valves were a "better" choice for valves than 318 valves. He said the 1.81 or 1.74 exhaust as the intake and the 1.50 exhaust as the exhaust with some trimmed off. I'm still trying to figure out WHY he says that. They have .100" more stem length, which isn't needed. TO me the 318 valves are the better choices, since they are closer to being the correct percentage VS the bowls. The big block valves would make that percentage off balance, IMO. In any event, I am using the 318 valves.
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my68barracuda said:
Why would one ever use an exhaust valve as an intake?
The underside shape of an exhaust valve is typically like a tulip, to blend the flow back into a stream. The underside of an intake valve is like a nail head. Flat to spread the flow out,,,
Click to expand...

Man I have no clue, but he sure talked about it. Lemmie see if i can find the link again and I'll post it. It wasn't the fact that it was an exhaust valve to me......although I agree. The 318 valves are just a way better fit. Especially with Mike from B3 helping out. See if I can find it. BRB
 
my68barracuda said:
Why would one ever use an exhaust valve as an intake?
The underside shape of an exhaust valve is typically like a tulip, to blend the flow back into a stream. The underside of an intake valve is like a nail head. Flat to spread the flow out,,,
Click to expand...

Here you go. Straight from the horse's mouth.

318 valves - Slant Six Forum
 
RustyRatRod said:
Man I have no clue, but he sure talked about it. Lemmie see if i can find the link again and I'll post it. It wasn't the fact that it was an exhaust valve to me......although I agree. The 318 valves are just a way better fit. Especially with Mike from B3 helping out. See if I can find it. BRB
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Dutra uses weird junk to make his unknown abominations, tell me how many are still out there... cause I have read about more blowing apart than of those that stay together. Why anyone would want to use the wrong shape valve that weighs way too much is beyond me....and by "trimming", he means because the valve is way too thick and the Under head is shaped wrong that he really wants you to take it to a diamond wheel as if you were back cutting it and just cut the entire Under head of the valve.
I would rather use a Chevy 1.72 valve if you are going to get a geometry kit from Mike.
They sell stainless performance versions for cheap.
 
my68barracuda said:
Why would one ever use an exhaust valve as an intake?
The underside shape of an exhaust valve is typically like a tulip, to blend the flow back into a stream. The underside of an intake valve is like a nail head. Flat to spread the flow out,,,
Click to expand...
Actually, many exhausts are not tulip shaped the way SB Mopar stockers are, and they are tuliped int&exh. BB Mopar valves are more nail-head all the way around, and they have the necked-down carbon cutter edge on the stem, more room in an already tight port. Most stailness replacements aren't very tulip shaped at all..................
 
toolmanmike said:
It's interesting how stable the 6" long carbides are. I thought they would chatter all over the place. I think you don't force them too much because of their length.
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keep the rpms down on the longer shanks and they wont chatter nearly as easy.
 
Well I'm not bashin Doug Dutra. Just saying what I found him to recommend. I thought it was strange, but then, lots probably thought things Garlits did was strange. Sometimes out of the box thinking works. You have to get out of the box to find out. Sometimes it blows apart. At least if you try, you'll have found out.

The 318 valves are comin. Right, wrong or otherwise. To me, they make the best choice because they're cheap and they're a familiar installed height (small block) so springs are very readily available and also........cheap.

Plus, now, I have run into yet another road block with the roller cam and have decided I am tired of road blocks. I was going to modify the Buick rockers. Too much drilling. Then I was going to modify the stock rockers. Even with a tungsten carbide bit, all I do is scratch the surface. I guess "I could" use the hydraulic rocker gear and use an oil through adjustable pushrod, but I am just tired of road blocks at this point.

Besides, not that I've had to quit work, the finances are a little tighter. I did get the gear drive to work and fit VERY well and even figured out how to convert it to a fixed, single idler system, so I MIGHT run that. I do still have the really nice rollmaster timing set on the shelf too.

So right, wrong or somewhere in between, it's going together "like it's going together".
 
RustyRatRod said:
Well I'm not bashin Doug Dutra. Just saying what I found him to recommend. I thought it was strange, but then, lots probably thought things Garlits did was strange. Sometimes out of the box thinking works. You have to get out of the box to find out. Sometimes it blows apart. At least if you try, you'll have found out.

The 318 valves are comin. Right, wrong or otherwise. To me, they make the best choice because they're cheap and they're a familiar installed height (small block) so springs are very readily available and also........cheap.

Plus, now, I have run into yet another road block with the roller cam and have decided I am tired of road blocks. I was going to modify the Buick rockers. Too much drilling. Then I was going to modify the stock rockers. Even with a tungsten carbide bit, all I do is scratch the surface. I guess "I could" use the hydraulic rocker gear and use an oil through adjustable pushrod, but I am just tired of road blocks at this point.

Besides, not that I've had to quit work, the finances are a little tighter. I did get the gear drive to work and fit VERY well and even figured out how to convert it to a fixed, single idler system, so I MIGHT run that. I do still have the really nice rollmaster timing set on the shelf too.

So right, wrong or somewhere in between, it's going together "like it's going together".
Click to expand...
Well, SB Mopar valves are a bit taller than BB Mopar valves, which are slightly taller than Slanty valves, to which putting SB units in a Slanty allows You a retainer ht close to using a BB valve-springs instead....a good thing spring-wise,..but rocker-shaft relocation is a must..............
 
Killer6 said:
Well, SB Mopar valves are a bit taller than BB Mopar valves, which are slightly taller than Slanty valves, to which putting SB units in a Slanty allows You a retainer ht close to using a BB valve-springs instead....a good thing spring-wise,..but rocker-shaft relocation is a must..............
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Yup. I've already talked to Mike @ B3 to help on that when I'm ready.
 
my68barracuda said:
Why would one ever use an exhaust valve as an intake?
The underside shape of an exhaust valve is typically like a tulip, to blend the flow back into a stream. The underside of an intake valve is like a nail head. Flat to spread the flow out,,,
Click to expand...


I must be stupid. I use tulip headed valves on everything I can. There is a reason for it. And it make sense.

Nail heads look good when you measure the port and put them on a flow bench, but the tulip will make more power. Every time.
 
yellow rose said:
I must be stupid. I use tulip headed valves on everything I can. There is a reason for it. And it make sense.

Nail heads look good when you measure the port and put them on a flow bench, but the tulip will make more power. Every time.
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If what you are doing works, it is possible you are not stupid. You may be smart.
And
If what you are doing works, it is
also possible that you are stupid, but also lucky,,,
I don’t know, just going off what you said.
 
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