Valve seal replacement

[Guitar Jones]

You probably can't tell from the pushrods although they are different lengths from hydraulic to solid. I have taken a few lifters out with the intake on between the ports. You may have to remove the intake bolt at that position and maybe knock the casting flash off but it can be done.

 

[1wild&crazyguy]

if they were adjusted right to begin with, you shouldn't have to adjust them now EVEN with removal/reinstall of the shafts/rockers.

If you can change the lash a measurable amount that you could feel/hear with a retorque, then you're torquing them to much.

 

[Guitar Jones]

if they were adjusted right to begin with, you shouldn't have to adjust them now EVEN with removal/reinstall of the shafts/rockers.

If you can change the lash a measurable amount that you could feel/hear with a retorque, then you're torquing them to much.

Not necessarily. Did the pushrods get removed? Did they go back in the same position? I have never removed a rocker shaft and not adjusted the valves afterwards unless it was a non adjustable hydraulic setup. I'm a flat rate tech so I'm not going to do anything I don't have to do and readjust the valves is just something you need to do.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Not necessarily. Did the pushrods get removed? Did they go back in the same position? I have never removed a rocker shaft and not adjusted the valves afterwards unless it was a non adjustable hydraulic setup. I'm a flat rate tech so I'm not going to do anything I don't have to do and readjust the valves is just something you need to do.

I tend to agree.

 

[1wild&crazyguy]

What I say isn't law, just my opinion.
And I don't when removing the shafts, if lash was recently set.
I've checked before and after long ago, no change.
I don't see why he'd need to remove the pushrods to get at the springs, thats all I'm saying.

 

[oldjunk]

Yes, I did remove the pushrods one at a time to check the condition of each. I put the rod back into it same lifter it was taken out from. Like I said, before I even removed the shaft I could rotate each rod back and forth...Does that mean the lash needs to be adjusted? Should the push rods move at all when the shaft is tightened down? If so, how are these style rocker arms adjusted?

 

[1wild&crazyguy]

Yes, I did remove the pushrods one at a time to check the condition of each. I put the rod back into it same lifter it was taken out from. Like I said, before I even removed the shaft I could rotate each rod back and forth...Does that mean the lash needs to be adjusted? Should the push rods move at all when the shaft is tightened down? If so, how are these style rocker arms adjusted?

if we are talking solid cam, then yers you'll be able to spin most of the pushrods on that bank, they should have a clearance of around .012-.020 'if stock' and .019-.020 or even mopar purples .028/.032

There jam nuts on the rockers, the pushrods contact the bottom of them, with both valves closed you slide a feeler gage between the valve tip and rocker, tightening or loosening the jam nut till you get just enough clearance to fit the feeler gage in.

If these are hyd lifters, then wait till the motor has sat a while and then with both valves closed 'lobes on the backside' you tighten the jam nuts so the pushrod depresses the lifter cup around .030 or about half a turn more than zero clearance between pushrod/lifter/jam nut.
But you'll need the lifters to bleed off a lil before doing this.

OR you can just do it the old way, which is with it running, loosen till you get some noise then tighten till it go's away, on all of them.

 

[oldjunk]

if we are talking solid cam, then yers you'll be able to spin most of the pushrods on that bank, they should have a clearance of around .012-.020 'if stock' and .019-.020 or even mopar purples .028/.032

There jam nuts on the rockers, the pushrods contact the bottom of them, with both valves closed you slide a feeler gage between the valve tip and rocker, tightening or loosening the jam nut till you get just enough clearance to fit the feeler gage in.

If these are hyd lifters, then wait till the motor has sat a while and then with both valves closed 'lobes on the backside' you tighten the jam nuts so the pushrod depresses the lifter cup around .030 or about half a turn more than zero clearance between pushrod/lifter/jam nut.
But you'll need the lifters to bleed off a lil before doing this.

OR you can just do it the old way, which is with it running, loosen till you get some noise then tighten till it go's away, on all of them.

Ok, got it. Now if I only knew if it was a soild or hydraulic cam and what type of cam I had I would be in business. How do most guys in my situtation (without knowing this info) do this? The old fashioned way?

 

[oldjunk]

Do you think the noise I was hearing was caused by a lack of oil somewhere after removing those parts and reinstalling them? Should I be using some sort or assembly lube when replacing the rods and rockers...or can this be because of adjustment issues?

 

[1wild&crazyguy]

Do you think the noise I was hearing was caused by a lack of oil somewhere after removing those parts and reinstalling them? Should I be using some sort or assembly lube when replacing the rods and rockers...or can this be because of adjustment issues?

if you let it warm up and it still made noise....make sure the shafts went on back on the same bank, other wise the oiling holes won't be lined up AND that IF you removed all the rockers from the shaft, you'll need to re adjust them now.

If you look down into the valley at the lifters, hyd will have lil wire clips around the cup, solids will either have a snap ring 'mopar performance' or nothing at all-just a solid cup 1 piece body.

 

[1wild&crazyguy]

something else you need to know is that the shaft hold down washers are diff, it go's from one end to the other narrow washer , fat washer, narrow washer, fat washer, narrow washer, otherwise the side play will make a decent amount noise.

 

[oldjunk]

if you let it warm up and it still made noise....make sure the shafts went on back on the same bank, other wise the oiling holes won't be lined up AND that IF you removed all the rockers from the shaft, you'll need to re adjust them now.

If you look down into the valley at the lifters, hyd will have lil wire clips around the cup, solids will either have a snap ring 'mopar performance' or nothing at all-just a solid cup 1 piece body.

I put the shaft back exactly the way it was removed. Never removed the rockers. Washers went back on correct as well. I'll have to take a good look at those lifters. Thanks for all your help wild&crazy.

 

[oldjunk]

Looks like I have hydraulic lifters. So just to confirm adjustment...make sure both valves closed. Set to zero lash by turning jam nut on rocker. Then turn jam nut another 1/2 turn. I included a pic of the lifters so you guys can confirm I have a hydraulic set up. Just want to make sure I do this right. I don't want to damage anything.

 

[1wild&crazyguy]

zero lash, then 'tighten' a half a turn.

 

[oldjunk]

So, I think I know why I am hearing this loud noise after I changed my seals. The exhaust lifter on the #1 cylinder can be pushed in. This is the only lifter I can push in by hand. All others are solid and cannot be pushed in. So apparently this lifter has no oil in it. What are my options here? Do I have to replace the lifter? On a side note, I have the passenger side rocker shaft out of the car and I can push almost all the lifters in by hand. Is this normal? The car has been sitting for 2 days now.

 

[1wild&crazyguy]

run it some, hard if u have to, till it pumps up.

if not, pull it, disassemble it, clean it, oil it and stick it back in.

I had one that I had to that to 1ce every few months.

 

[pishta]

Are you lifters newer style that have and oil hole in the middle? Remove that lifter and soak it in oil overnight. If you can take it apart, there is a little check valve in there that may have a piece of thrash holding it off its seat, clean and reassemble. Buddies stock 302 would rattle for the first 45 seconds after any more than 2 days of sitting, but would purr after that.

 

[oldjunk]

Are you lifters newer style that have and oil hole in the middle? Remove that lifter and soak it in oil overnight. If you can take it apart, there is a little check valve in there that may have a piece of thrash holding it off its seat, clean and reassemble. Buddies stock 302 would rattle for the first 45 seconds after any more than 2 days of sitting, but would purr after that.

Thanks for the response. Only rattled for a few minutes after I fired it up. No noise anymore. I'm guessing a lifter or two needed to pump back up w/oil. After a recent compression check I realized that the blue smoke is not coming from the seals but rather the rings. :sad7:

 

[Frank Mopar]

looks like adjustable rocker arms. You need to find out if you have solid of hydraulic lifters becuase you can use adjustable arms on either.
If you have solid lifters then you'll need to find out what kind of cam is in there so you can find out what to set the rockers arms at.
Smoke can be residue thats in the muffler and pipes and that should burn out in a short time