Valve train noise

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slowdown

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Insstalled lunati 60403 hydraulic ca in a 392 stroke 318 based engine with rhs heads. It runs fine, but the valve tr ain is noisey. Right now its just the stock stamped valve train. I dont have any extra play money for after market rockers yet. But with that size of cam do I need them . is it normal for stock rockers to be noisey with this cam. It sounds like a lot of ticking . I followed the cam break in procedure, an the guy from indy set the valve spring pressure up for the 60403 cam with 1.5 rockers. Even if this cam is to small to require after market rockers will having after market rockers get rid of the ticking. The cam I took out was a small comp magnum hydraulic an it didnt make any valve train noise. Thanks for your input
 
I have the same cam in a 340 with stock rockers and pushrods no noise.
If the heads on your motor have been milled or the deck milled.
You may need a different length pushrods.
 
Just asking....are you certain the shafts are installed the right way?
 
Just asking....are you certain the shafts are installed the right way?
I put them back in the way I took them out, I hope they are right it didn't tick before the cam and head swap. I put the passenger side shaft with the notch to the back of the block and down and the drivers has the notch to the front of the engine with notch down. I just got home and checked the push rods to see if I could move them under load and I cannot. But when both exh and intake valves are closed I can wiggle the push rods and there is up and down play, that's not right is it, I thought there was some sort of preload that keeps them tight against the rocker?
 
In the description of the heads they say the decks are thicker then stock so they can be milled, will this extra material make my rockers short?
 
There should be a little preload, 030-060. If you look on ebay, etc, you may find a set of the 273 rockers which were adjustable pretty cheap. Or longer pushrods, you need to see how much you need to go. Where in Colorado?
 
There should be a little preload, 030-060. If you look on ebay, etc, you may find a set of the 273 rockers which were adjustable pretty cheap. Or longer pushrods, you need to see how much you need to go. Where in Colorado?

Loveland co. ive watched adjustable rockers set up on utube an they go to where they can spin the push rod or move it then tighten them a half a turn. I know I dont have adjustable rockers but I would think they would be tight against the rocker when the shaft bolts where tightened down. So you think I need longer push rods. I will have to aquire a rod lenght tool, to get the right length. I didnt find anything on rod lenght problems when switching to rhs heads, when I was planning on buying them. So I just reused my stock push rods. the rhs heads shaft mounting point must be taller.
 
the rhs heads shaft mounting point must be taller.

Or the base circle of the new cam is smaller. At least you found your issue. The longer rods that will give a little preload and will quiet her down substantially.
 
Or the base circle of the new cam is smaller. At least you found your issue. The longer rods that will give a little preload and will quiet her down substantially.
Thanks guys. I"ll get a hold of a push rod length tool and go from there.
 
Thanks guys. I"ll get a hold of a push rod length tool and go from there.
The pushrod length tool came in the mail today. I installed it fulled collapsed at 7.5 inches and was going to go from there, but when I installed the rockers again I noticed the rockers where tight on the pushrod tool. I measured the old push rods and they are like 7 7/16 long not 7.5 I figure wear. But I can still spin the push rod tool but no lift or wiggle. Probably worn out 40 year old rockers... So I 'm thinking with new nonadjustable rockers and new 7.5 push rods it should all be where it should be. It didn't make noise with the other cam I had in it but I was using the mp thin head gasket with that cam and the old heads. This time it has the rhs heads and felpro stock head gasket, I am wondering if the mp thin head gasket helped with the worn out push rod length when I had the other cam in it, maybe that's why it didn't tick. I don't know....
 
I would check the push rod length on the rest of the cylinders, and just order the correct length pushrods for what you need.
I would not order new rockers.
I am pretty sure the push rods/rocker arms did not wear .063".
 
You need to pull a lifter, carefully remove the guts, stack some washers in until the push rod cup for the lifter is tight up against it's retaining ring and check your length with that. It will require removing the rockers and measure the adjustable push rod length with calipers.
 
.063" would be a frigton to wear. Are you sure you're on the cam lobe base circle?
 
Intake an exh valves closed tdc. It does seem like alot of wear, they are the original rockers an push rods from the engine I took out of the car. all the push rods measure about the same. They came out of a two barrel 318 from a 68 dart. An I dont beleive the engine was ever opened. I thought 318 engines had 7.5 push rods. If they do then these ones are either worn or a 1/16 short. But I will keep checking.
 
You need to pull a lifter, carefully remove the guts, stack some washers in until the push rod cup for the lifter is tight up against it's retaining ring and check your length with that. It will require removing the rockers and measure the adjustable push rod length with calipers.
GREAT INFO,DANO!
This is mandatory,to acheive consistent readings. The lifters pumped up,good for 1 or 2 revolutions,bleeds down. Just did this,last week. A suggestion: When you do this,hit the top of the valve stem,with magic marker.The rocker will leave a pattern. You want it centered. Let's start with that.
 
Ignore the second paragraph, if shaft rockers.Damn.
Thanks for the info. Just a warning if anyone has ordered one of these pushrod measuring tools as this was my first. I bought it from summit racing, it came in a nicely packaged box and was taped to the inside of the box, but the little bag it was in was opened, and it said trick flow on it. When I took it out of the bag to look at it and turn it a couple of times to make sure it turned smooth I cut my finger on something. I took a look and there was something sticking out of the hole on the bottom of the rod. I unscrewed it all the way and turned it over to get a little pile of metal shavings. I am sure they are not supposed to be filled with metal shavings so anyway just a look ahead for someone who will be using one of these for the first time. I'm glad I didn't put it into the lifter with that crap in it who knows what would have fallen out and jammed my lifter up.
 
I always just flip a lifter upside down and measure, then add however much preload I want. Sounds like you got the wrong length pushrod checker.
 
I seem to remember someone making a pushrod length checker from an old pushrod. cut, weld, tap, allthread, jamnut etc. IDK I'm getting old and my mind you know...
 
I always just flip a lifter upside down and measure, then add however much preload I want. Sounds like you got the wrong length pushrod checker.

I had to come back and respond to my own stupidness. I was thinkin about camshaft degreeing when I wrote that. That procedure won't work for measuring pushrods. Sorry bout that. lol
 
I measure with the lifters as delivered. I use a wire feeler gage under the clip on the lifter to measure the preload. You don't have to be perfect to the thou.
 
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