Vibration

-
Mopar Sam said:
Without the flywheel, you'll have to rebalance the rotating assembly. Whoever you take it to should Knock off some $s since the rods and pistons are already match weighed. If not send me a PM and I'll help you out.
Click to expand...
Sam, something I do not know the answer to: Would the damper have been imbalanced pretty much the same amount as the flywheel if indeed materials was taken off of both? I always thought they were close to the same end to end (damper imbalance vs flywheel/TC/or flexplate imbalance.)

Or can you just not count on that, depending on what the shop felt like that day or was used to doing?
 
nm9stheham, It depends on the individual crank . Even if the imbalance is the same, you would have to remove less weight as you move farther away from the cranks centerline. Not knowing if the original shop removed any weight from the counterweights before messing with the flywheel and damper makes it all a guessing game until its put on a balancing machine. I personally prefer to make all corrections to the counter weights , then you completely remove problems like this if a customer decides to switch from manual to auto , or visa versa later.
 
I was just thinking than any modified imbalance would show up in the damper and that could be measured to take a shot at what the back end's imbalance should be. But, I don't know how accurately that could be measured, and it surely depends on the other shop doing things in a certain way, and that is not at all for sure. They could have messed with the flywheel more than the damper. This is all frustrating for the OP 'til more info is known.

(And understood on the distance; that is a variable in the overall imbalance factor.)
 
skep419 said:
Options 1. Get old parts back and stick with what you had.
Option 2. Get machine shop records and potentially throw money away trying to match it up
Option 3. Take motor apart and send off balancer. Rotating assembly. Converter.
Option 4. Sell engine and trans to go big block.
Option 5. Go to tire shop and buy stick on wheel weights. Weld on after.
Option 6. Don't do anything with the car for a couple years and dump it to someone on Fabo
Option 7. Install neutral balance flex plate and add tire shop sticky weights to converter.
Option 8. Go to a nickelback concert and realize it could be worse.
Click to expand...

HAHAHA!!! I'd rather take a bullet than go to see Nickelback.
 
nm9stheham said:
OK... still looking for the easy fix..... hate to see yo go deep into it for no good reason. Any further thoughts on the TC being out of whack?

BTW, did you have a pix of the clutch face of the flywheel.... just curious. Any chance you could buy that back and put it in, with no TC installed? If it was modified, the buyer may experience issues if he/she is expecting it to be a stock imbalanced 360 flywheel. You could start the car and see what that does.
Click to expand...

It was a flywheel for a four speed. I'm running an auto. Wouldn't be able to mount that with an auto.
 
Yeah I know, but..... the idea is:
1) Testing:If you had it, I would just pull the trans, pull out the TC, put on the flywheel, DON'T put in the TC, put in trans + a few bolts and the x-member, just for engine support, and start it and see if the smoothed out. If so, you know the engine is balanced right when you have the right imbalanced part at the back end.
2) If that worked out OK, then have the flywheel imbalance measured, and then use that to modify a flexplate for the right amount of imbalance. Then put the modified flexplate back in. Retest.
2) If still good, then put the TC back in and see if it is still OK. If so, then you're golden, if not then replace the TC.

Just trying to suggest ways to go about this without pulling the motor apart.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top