Victor Heads on the dyno

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Hemirunner

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Who's been on the dyno with these? What was the combo and the results?
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ou812 said:
I'm working on a build right now...using a Ritter block. I won't know until maybe middle of summer. After this build, I hope to do a pump gas type build with them and tone down the $$$ spent!
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Keep us posted on your results. What's the combo? Are those Ritter blocks requiring much work? This is a pump gas build on a 48 degree R3 using a hydraulic roller. It won't be any indication of how these heads work as we've made several concessions in the interest of streetability.
 
Hemirunner-do you have a total spent on heads COMPLETE ... heads/valves/keepers/springs/rockers/rocker hold down etc... and is the supervictor the only intake choice ?
 
rrvolare said:
Hemirunner-do you have a total spent on heads COMPLETE ... heads/valves/keepers/springs/rockers/rocker hold down etc... and is the supervictor the only intake choice ?
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I have a complete build total on this down to the last bolt. This is NOT a budget build by any stretch of the imagination, especially since we used the 48 Degree block. A lot of guys trash talk the super vic but I think it'll work great with this head once I open it up. I'll have it dyno'd by the end of April.
 
Not saying you made the wrong decision on SUPER VICTOR... i don't think it would fit under stock hood of a 69 DART....Curious to see the HP/TQ #'s .. thanks for posting
 
rrvolare said:
Not saying you made the wrong decision on SUPER VICTOR... i don't think it would fit under stock hood of a 69 DART....Curious to see the HP/TQ #'s .. thanks for posting
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It won't. If anyone wants to send me some other intakes, I'd be glad to do some testing. I thought a Mod Man with a six pack or 2-4 setup would make an interesting test!
 
Hemirunner said:
Keep us posted on your results. What's the combo? Are those Ritter blocks requiring much work? This is a pump gas build on a 48 degree R3 using a hydraulic roller. It won't be any indication of how these heads work as we've made several concessions in the interest of streetability.
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If you need some hyd. roller lifters for the 48° block I have some with dyno time only....The Ritter block once machined will be ridiculous in price BUT after machining it and testing hardness in many spots I can say if you want a stout block & want to build alot of power with rpm or huge cid this is the block of choice at the moment. Ours is 48° as well, using a 50mm cam and roller cam bearings. I had it checked out on a CNC machine to make sure everything is where it's supposed to be. Bushed the lifter bores also. I'll have some pics next week when we finish all the machine work.
 
ou812 said:
If you need some hyd. roller lifters for the 48° block I have some with dyno time only....The Ritter block once machined will be ridiculous in price BUT after machining it and testing hardness in many spots I can say if you want a stout block & want to build alot of power with rpm or huge cid this is the block of choice at the moment. Ours is 48° as well, using a 50mm cam and roller cam bearings. I had it checked out on a CNC machine to make sure everything is where it's supposed to be. Bushed the lifter bores also. I'll have some pics next week when we finish all the machine work.
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Sounds like a great block abeit expensive, but aren't they all. Thanks for the offer on the lifters but I've already purchased morels from Chris Straub. We used babbit bearings in this one for street use and Comp had semi-finished cores in stock. He about **** when I asked him to grind a big hydraulic roller on that stick.
 
was wondering how that lil project was coming along Brian.... sounds like it's full steam ahead!
 
Hemirunner said:
I wasn't aware that you made that. What pump does that use?
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It uses a SB Mopar electric pump. Or you can install AN adapters and run a remote water pump. The remote pump allows you to free up a bunch of space at the front of the engine. The front cover seals with an o-ring and comes off without disturbing the pan seal so you can change cams or adjust the cam timing easier.

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AndyF said:
It uses a SB Mopar electric pump. Or you can install AN adapters and run a remote water pump. The remote pump allows you to free up a bunch of space at the front of the engine. The front cover seals with an o-ring and comes off without disturbing the pan seal so you can change cams or adjust the cam timing easier.

View attachment 1715033767

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Are you thinking about continuing sales of that sb timing cover Andy?
 
that is so nice Andy...... love the thought that went into that piece. I so wish I would have gone divorced water pump on my current set up. AN fittings and hoses so much easier to work with.
 
o1heavy said:
are they available that's a bad *****
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I have a couple left on the shelf. When they are gone I'll have to decide if I make another batch. They are expensive and they sell pretty slowly so it ties up a bunch of my cash to build a batch and watch them sit on the shelf.

I also built some motor plates that bolt on to this front cover. I put extra bosses into the front cover for the motor plate so you can hang the engine from the plate while changing the cam in the pits.

Here is a link to part on my website: SB Timing Chain Cover | AR Engineering
 
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I wonder if a Meziere pump would be good enough to cool my SB 383 running on methanol on a 1/2 mile dirt track?
Electric pumps generally can't do the job on gasoline ...
 
AndyF said:
I have a couple left on the shelf. When they are gone I'll have to decide if I make another batch. They are expensive and they sell pretty slowly so it ties up a bunch of my cash to build a batch and watch them sit on the shelf.

I also built some motor plates that bolt on to this front cover. I put extra bosses into the front cover for the motor plate so you can hang the engine from the plate while changing the cam in the pits.

Here is a link to part on my website: SB Timing Chain Cover | AR Engineering
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I would love to have one of those, but the cover and water pump becomes a really expensive conversion. Well worth it if you are doing a lot of cam testing.
 
IQ52 said:
I would love to have one of those, but the cover and water pump becomes a really expensive conversion. Well worth it if you are doing a lot of cam testing.
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It'd be great for easy cam swaps on the dyno, however, this engine will come off the dyno and go into a car show cruiser that'll never see the strip so I guess I'll have to pass.
 
What brand of water pump is on that engine? I'm asking because I have the same style on an engine I bought but I don't see a brand name on it...
 
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