Paladin06
Well-Known Member
OK, I pulled the ignition switch and look what I found on the small black wire. Not good.
Voltage drop at ballast resistor
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OK, I pulled the ignition switch and look what I found on the small black wire. Not good.
Paladin06
Well-Known Member
Additionally the large RED wire is very firm/stiff. The others are much more flexible.
What I did, works great.
Paladin06
Well-Known Member
Not sure yet. Still in the reassembly phase. Going out of town for a week tomorrow to spend some time with the daughter (in the Army). Be back in a week. I'll be sure to let you know.
Paladin06
Well-Known Member
Can you show me a setup using this?
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
No sorry, I don't. Plus there are many ways of implementing this. So called "Bosch" relays have a fairly standard wiring scheme.
30 is for main power to feed the load coming TO the relay. So for example, run a say, 20A automotive breaker from the big stud on the starter relay to no30
87A is not used in this situation. This is "normally closed" meaning when the relay is NOT powered that 87A and 30 make connection
87 is what you want to feed your load. When I say "cut" I mean functionally, electrically. How you PHYSICALLY do so is up to you. "Cut" the dark blue "ignition run" wire just as it comes out of the bulkhead and BEFORE it gets to the resistor. Connect the end which goes to the resistor here to 87
85 is the magnetic coil terminal GROUND this
86 is the other coil terminal, you feed power TO this to activate the relay. So now take the cut end of the dark blue that comes out of the bulkhead and connect to this terminal.
A little voltage drop in the harness now won't matter, all it has to do is to activate the relay. Now the ignition and VR will be fed from the starter relay "big stud" through the breaker through the relay and to the VR and ignition system.
Make sure you keep the breaker and relay away from engine heat and water leakage. You normally should mount these relays with terminals pointing down to further shed water
30 is for main power to feed the load coming TO the relay. So for example, run a say, 20A automotive breaker from the big stud on the starter relay to no30
87A is not used in this situation. This is "normally closed" meaning when the relay is NOT powered that 87A and 30 make connection
87 is what you want to feed your load. When I say "cut" I mean functionally, electrically. How you PHYSICALLY do so is up to you. "Cut" the dark blue "ignition run" wire just as it comes out of the bulkhead and BEFORE it gets to the resistor. Connect the end which goes to the resistor here to 87
85 is the magnetic coil terminal GROUND this
86 is the other coil terminal, you feed power TO this to activate the relay. So now take the cut end of the dark blue that comes out of the bulkhead and connect to this terminal.
A little voltage drop in the harness now won't matter, all it has to do is to activate the relay. Now the ignition and VR will be fed from the starter relay "big stud" through the breaker through the relay and to the VR and ignition system.
Make sure you keep the breaker and relay away from engine heat and water leakage. You normally should mount these relays with terminals pointing down to further shed water
Paladin06
Well-Known Member
I'm a visual kind of guy. You got any pictures or a DIY?
Paladin06
Well-Known Member
Well look what I found. This blue wire, that connects where you see the other blue wire, was only held in place but 2 or 3 strands of wire. I removed and cleaned all blades on this connector. The red wire blade was pretty corroded.
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Both the make and female those are known as "Packard 56" you can google it. The males have a "tang" on one edge you must release, the female has a tang on the backside. Use a small screwdriver
In the photo below, you would push in the tang which "hangs down" in the lower part of the photo from the "blade" side not the wire side
In the photo below, you would push in the tang which "hangs down" in the lower part of the photo from the "blade" side not the wire side
Paladin06
Well-Known Member
Actually for the connector I'm working and a You Tube video I found, I just had to gently squeeze the blade from sides with needle nose pliers and I was able to pull it out. I pulled and cleaned them all. The red and black wires were pretty corroded.
Paladin06
Well-Known Member
Ok, after all the madness I get it back together (except for putting that heavy *** seat back in) with no more then .5 volt drop anywhere, but my damn park brake light is out. I’ll be damned if I’m pulling that instrument cluster again.
Thanks so much everyone for the help. You’re all the best.
Thanks so much everyone for the help. You’re all the best.
Paladin06
Well-Known Member
Yea, what do you think. On a funny note, the key in buzzer is really loud. Didn’t know it had one.
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Paladin06
Well-Known Member
ok did my final wire bundle securing today, filled her with antifreeze (new flex fan and radiator rework and new hoses), fired her up and man it sure is sweet. That fan is moving air like a hurricane. I’ll test drive in the a.m tomorrow before we hit triple digits.
Thx to all you guys for your help. You’re the best.
Thx to all you guys for your help. You’re the best.
Could be the switch on the inside hand lever got knocked a little out of position. If it is the bulb, I generally find I can reach them from underneath without removing the panel. That's assuming no under dash A/C or othe junk. Find someone with skinny arms and hands!
Glad you found the remaining culprits
Paladin06
Well-Known Member
Not real sure about the switch lever you mentioned. Sorry Plz be a little more specific.
Paladin06
Well-Known Member
Thx go to all the guys here. I don’t know if I could have done it alone but, I learned a lot about car I thought I knew in and out.
The switch for the parking brake light. It's located on the mechanism with the pull handle under the dash. It's simple spring loaded push button. When the parking brake handle is pulled, the spring loaded pushbutton moves and closes the circuit.
Paladin06
Well-Known Member
Pulled aside some wires and bulb socket was almost completely out. 1/4 turn and done. Thanks partner. We are now 100%.
DaveRodda
New Member
hello...when the system is starting you bypass the ballast resister and provide 12V to the coil for a short amount of time. after starting the coil voltage goes through the ballast resister and you end up with about 6V. If you are starting at 10.5 and subtract 6V you get 4.5V.
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