I think by 1976 radial tires were installed on A body cars, perhaps a 76 alignment spec will work. Other than that there is an alignment chart kicking around listing several different stages of settings depending if DD to all out race car. I'll be damned if I can locate it. I do recall it being recently posted here or on /6, can't remember which.
For a daily driver try to get + 1* or more caster (stock UCA won’t allow much more than 1* of caster, Moog problem solver UCA bushings can add 1 or 2 more degrees caster to stock UCA). Set to 0* to -.75* camber. These settings won’t wear tires, but will improve straight line stability, and cornering over old settings.
The problem with these cars is one side will come close to good caster setting, but the other will be two or three degrees negative, this where eccentric (problem solver) UCA bushings will help. My car was -6* one side, and -3* when I got it, problem solver bushings didn’t cut it, I had to go to tuber UCAs with up to +9* of adjustment to get into the +2* caster range.
Too much negative camber, say over -0.75* (top of tire tilts to engine), will scrub off inside tread, as will worn ball joints.