want to put a 440 in my dart

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70dart831

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hey guys iam new to this site. i have a few questions about swapping a 77 motorhome 440 with a 727 trans. i know there is lower compression. is it worth the time and effort. i planned on building the motor getting a set of flat top pistons. but i wanted to know if the block is the same and if i can still use the stock crank and rods.i plan on getting a set of 906 heads and putting them on. will those bolt on? i plan on rebuilding the tranny and adding a shift kit and getting a different torque converter.will that bolt in? the car is a slant 6 car with a 904 auto.iam gonna buy the shumacher big block kit will that work with the motor i have i bought a complete motor and tranny running for 500 i want to know if i wasted my money please help i dont want to buy anything else until i know.or can i use the stock heads and have them built. thanks for the help
 
70dart831 said:
hey guys iam new to this site. i have a few questions about swapping a 77 motorhome 440 with a 727 trans. i know there is lower compression. is it worth the time and effort.
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Yes. Some motor homes use a set of direct gears rather than a timing chain. Just swap in the timing chain and new cam at the same time. This is just a possible thing that may pop up and it's nothing to worry about. I figured I'd make a mention of it though.


i planned on building the motor getting a set of flat top pistons. but i wanted to know if the block is the same and if i can still use the stock crank and rods.
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Yes. However, new rods are so cheap these days that use of the old rods is all most crazy to do.

i plan on getting a set of 906 heads and putting them on. will those bolt on?
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Yes.

i plan on rebuilding the tranny and adding a shift kit and getting a different torque converter.will that bolt in?
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Yes. Just speak with the manufacture of the converter so you get everything in one shot like as in a kit. It just makes life simple and avoids any weird pitfalls that may happen.

the car is a slant 6 car with a 904 auto.iam gonna buy the shumacher big block kit will that work with the motor i have i bought a complete motor and tranny running for 500 i want to know if i wasted my money please
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The engine swap kit is worth it IMO. It's a real nice kit. I have used several.
On the price of the 440 being $500. That is the price of a rebuildable core. Since you have gotten both, engine and tranny for that price, I think it a good price but would assume that they both need a full rebuild before use.

help i dont want to buy anything else until i know.or can i use the stock heads and have them built. thanks for the help
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Yes. Also, the stock heads work out to be cheaper than new aluminum heads very often, but all things are subject to direction and final wants out of what your doing.

A example would be a typical street engine that is "Capable" and strong could very well use a set of pocket ported stock heads with possibly bigger valves. Depends on what you have or get. Then with the cam, get the whole set up, valve springs to match the cam being used is super important and will be set up on the head in question for use.
 
stock or 906 heads will work, but the best factory head to use would be "915" its a close chamber so nice quench
 
Keep in mind that you should change the torsion bars to handle the extra weight also.
 
thanks thats all the info i needed now i feel good about what i bought. thanks for the fast replies. yeah i planned on getting big block torsion bars and upgrading to the big bolt pattern and getting front disc and getting an 8 3/4 from an e body would that bolt up?
 
Some of the 440 motorhome engines came with HD rods as used in the 70/71 440-6 pack engine. Check your casting numbers to see what you`ve got. www.440source.com has a great archive of casting numbers for big blocks as well as a host of new and used parts. As the guys have said you can use the `67 440 heads with a casting number ending in 915 to boost your compression as they are closed chambered heads. Exhaust manifolds/headers are always a major issue when installing a big block in an A-body. As long as you`re not building crazy hp the Schumacher header will work well and is a good choice for the money. In all honesty you should probably build the car backwards and start with installing a good 8.75 rear end (from another A-body), upgrade the front brakes to disc or 10" drum and install thicker torsion bars. Once those things are done then move on to the drivetrain. You`ll need a good radiator too so keep a lookout for one while you work the other things. Welcome to the site 70dart831 and good luck!
 
You know Rumble this question has come up so often lately that we almost need to post a specific "menu" thread like.

1/ 8 3/4 with sure grip and pinion snubber
2/ Shortened drive shaft if the donor car didn't allready have a 727/8 3/4"
3/ Subframe connectors welded in not bolted
4/ .890 torsion bars
5/ Front disc brakes either Kelsey Hayes of newer post 72 single piston.
6/ Large rad., 3 core with large fan and shroud or puller electric.
7/ 727 with auxillary oil cooler with high stall converter (otherwise why
bother)
8/ Schumacher headers if engine is under 500HP, TTI if over.
9/ Schumacher mounts and torque rod.
9/ 383 or 400 or 440 stock or stroked

I'm sure I'm missing something. Oh yea $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$:toothy10::toothy10:

Terry
 
You're forgetting that you really don't need Schumacher at all. Save money and build a DC k-member, use b-body HP manifolds for a mild build. And, no I don't anything against Schumacher, I'd just rather fab stuff myself and save a little money.

All of this is why anybody considering a big block swap should visit the tech pages at www.bigblockdart.com.
 
Good info Jim, the crux of my menu was more as a starting point to let would be swapers know what to expect. That's also why I didn't mention high $ aluminum rads for better cooling if needed for high HP or real stinking hot climates or bigger money pits like stroked out 440's. It's like anything else I guess, "how much do you want to spend".

Terry
 
thanks for the info. yeah i got the motor home for a good deal i couldn't pass it up. i plan on doing everything you guys listed. i just want a fast fun street car that i can take to the track. as soon as my other project car is done iam gonna start on the dart, i just need more garage space. what rear springs do you guys recomend?
 
Jim Lusk said:
You're forgetting that you really don't need Schumacher at all. Save money and build a DC k-member, use b-body HP manifolds for a mild build. And, no I don't anything against Schumacher, I'd just rather fab stuff myself and save a little money.

All of this is why anybody considering a big block swap should visit the tech pages at www.bigblockdart.com.
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Amen. I agree, the Schumacher mounts look great and all but I bought a decent welder instead for $170 and now I have a DC K-Member. Subframe connector are next. :D
 
Not as hard as it seems. I used the B-Body HP manifolds. 6cyl k frame(notched for BB oil pump), Schumacher mounts, trim back the steering column sleeve and cut an acess hole for #6 plug.

bob4.jpg


VALIANT.jpg
 
mine fit like a glove also just trimmed the steering sleeve fit right in with headers on as for the ebody 8 3/4 it fit underneath my valiant fine just had to get wheels with 5.50 offset










1968rt said:
Not as hard as it seems. I used the B-Body HP manifolds. 6cyl k frame(notched for BB oil pump), Schumacher mounts, trim back the steering column sleeve and cut an acess hole for #6 plug.
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and OBAMAis the president LOLLLL ,, well mine was a BI%CH .. the slant 6 kframe it a little hard the the cppa lage tube headers .... what a F#&$ing Night mare ,, took me a week
 
Didja use a Cherry Picker..?? :-D :-D :-D :-D





A buddy and I did my 68 Dart GT in about 1 hour.

383 ('69 Road Runner) engine with 727 and Schummy Tri-Ys installed..

Schumacher mounts and Torque Strap..
 
Aw, Greg you let out the secret. Kinda like the handshake........ Since I tend to start from a completely empty engine bay on a swap I kinda took that for granted, but it should have been mentioned earlier...........
 
Me and my brother but my 440/727 in my 1973 dart in about 1.5 hours. I did not have to dent one tube of my tti headers. best of luck Mopar65

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