Water pump help

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'73red-duster

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My nephew is putting my '86 318 cop motor in his '67 D100 truck. He needs a water pump with the outlet on the drivers side, that will match the '86 motor. Any help?
 
Get an early SB cast iron pump which will have the hose/pump nipple on the DR side to match your DR side radiator nipple (I'm assuming). Keep the same dampener/tcover. You will have the timing marks and the pump nipple both on the same DR side but you can see the marks if you aim the light just right. I have an 83 318 in a 65 dart with a DR side lower rad nipple/early cast iron pump on the 83 tcover/dampener and it's doable. EDIT the early cast iron pump is thinner than the later aluminum one so just get the right depth pulley and or spacers to restore belt alignment. www.speedwaymotors.com has em and I've used flat washers. The thinner pump body MAY need washers to slightly shorten the bolt length engagement. Mockup & go from there
 
You must change the timing cover to use the opposite side water pump outlet

This is incorrect. But has it's merits.

What you "must do" is use the proper length attaching hardware on the earlier pump. PM if you want the cover and pump. I have these from a '69/318.
 
I am a little confused on the above. I am putting a 360 in a 67 Barracuda. I am looking to put a thick core and electric fans which I understand come out at about 6 inches thick. With the aluminum water pump I am right at 6 inches so no room for the motor to move around. I understand the early cast iron pump is shorter. Does anyone know how much shorter? Is it worth while? Will it bolt to the 360 timing cover directly? will I still be able to see the timing marks?
 
Im trying to.remember here but i think.the.bosses are thicker on the.cast iron pump vs the alum one. Make sure you have a complete matched set of pulleys to use. Or you may ne.in for a.world.of.grief.
 
4spdragtop,

Thanks for pointing out the bolt length issue, i'll be sure to check. I can figure out the bolts and should be ok if they are different in length. I have some old 273 parts and might have some pulleys and brackets, might get lucky. Sounds like the timing cover from the 360 will be ok with the early pump though?

CudaEric
 
Get an early SB cast iron pump which will have the hose/pump nipple on the DR side to match your DR side radiator nipple (I'm assuming). Keep the same dampener/tcover. You will have the timing marks and the pump nipple both on the same DR side but you can see the marks if you aim the light just right. I have an 83 318 in a 65 dart with a DR side lower rad nipple/early cast iron pump on the 83 tcover/dampener and it's doable. EDIT the early cast iron pump is thinner than the later aluminum one so just get the right depth pulley and or spacers to restore belt alignment. www.speedwaymotors.com has em and I've used flat washers. The thinner pump body MAY need washers to slightly shorten the bolt length engagement. Mockup & go from there

This is the best solution. ^^^^^^^


Isn't it funny around here, when you give sound proven experienced advice, it's often totally ignored? Get used to it. lol
 
What accessories and parts you have on hand makes a difference. In most cases there aren't alt' brackets, p/s pump with pulley and brackets, etc.., on hand.
Some, including myself, have went to great lengths to make a later model truck engine adapt to a OEM early model radiator only to find the engine runs too hot.
I certainly learned from my experience. The correct path to happy moparing goes by/buy a new radiator. Heck of a lot shorter smoother path too.
 
All,

Thanks for the help on the pump questions. Next question. I am getting a new radiator and fan set-up. Considering high efficiency aluminum thick core standard fit with matching fan and shroud from Griffin, Wizard Cooling, and US Radiator. Anyone have any good or bad experiences with any of these companies? Is there anyone else I should be looking at?
 
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