Weeping

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Yote

Yote

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My trans oil is "weeping" not serious enough to be called a leak. It is coming from the shafts on The side where the shift linkage connects. What remedys for this as it is just a continual mess?
 
Yote said:
My trans oil is "weeping" not serious enough to be called a leak. It is coming from the shafts on The side where the shift linkage connects. What remedys for this as it is just a continual mess?
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Super simple taking the I believe 10 bolts off to the side cover, but first of course pull the half inch nuts off the 1st 2nd &3rd 4th shifters.
Once the cover is off you can just pull the shifters backwards out of the cover and there is o rings towards the end of them that need replacing. Brewers performance or passion performance will have them.
It should go without saying but it should probably be said that you need to drain the oil out first and while your at it get a cover gasket for the side cover from Brewers or passion as your local parts store may likely not have it
 
You can send your side cover to Libertys and they (Paul) will upgrade the seals. It is a cheap job too. Paul does amazing work and he is a pretty cool dude.

if its an 833
 
hemitheus said:
You can send your side cover to Libertys and they (Paul) will upgrade the seals. It is a cheap job too. Paul does amazing work and he is a pretty cool dude.

if its an 833
Click to expand...
I'd be interested know what the upgraded consist of?
 
It would be challenging to do in the car, there is not very much room to work on it.
Also be aware there are several different bolts used on the covers, do not mix up where they go, or you can damage the cover or case.

If it were mine and just weeping, still in the car I would leave it alone.
The time to fix it is when it is out of the car and easy to work on.
 
Yes, taking it out is a great idea. Since your going to have to drain it anyways. Take a quick picture of the linkage - take the clips off each end of the linkage and remove them, take your shifter boot off, two bolts and your shifter comes off. Now the easy part- take the four 3/8's bolts off the driveline and remove, this would be application specific but I loosen my exhaust from my headers so I can put a jack under the transmission and when I take the 4 cross member bolts out I can lower the transmission down and tilt the motor back a little bit to gain access to the last four bolts holdingthe transmission to the bellhousing. I put a scissor jack under the bell housing to keep the motor from flopping back too far and hitting the distributor against the firewall and also I like a scissor jack because it won't lose fluid or anything over time. And I put my hydraulic jack under the transmission once those 4 bolts to the bell housing are out and the 4 bolts to the crossmember and wham-o its in your hands. This is a great time to check and reseal everything and even book your linkage and shifter back up and make sure everything is all correct. You can check all the washers and lubricate the shifter and all of the little grommets in between the shifter linkage. You couldn't really improve your experience with the transmissions performance but having nice tight linkage.
edit: I almost forgot you'll have to unplug the reverse light and undo the speedo cable
I don't have that stuff in my car
 
It's been about 10, 000 years since I've been into a Mopar A833, but aren't there some O rings in the cover for the shafts? I don't even remember.

Last 4 speed was an adaptation (Advanced Adapters, and screw them by the way) with Jeep straight through transfer in the beat up FJ-40 and a small block.
 
67Dart273 said:
It's been about 10, 000 years since I've been into a Mopar A833, but aren't there some O rings in the cover for the shafts? I don't even remember.

Last 4 speed was an adaptation (Advanced Adapters, and screw them by the way) with Jeep straight through transfer in the beat up FJ-40 and a small block.
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It been 10 days or so since I've had my a833 transmission completely scattered on my workbench- pull the cover off, pull the shift selectors out of the cover and there will be a little o ring near the end. Change it- no more oil leak from there.
 
j par said:
Yes, taking it out is a great idea. Since your going to have to drain it anyways. Take a quick picture of the linkage - take the clips off each end of the linkage and remove them, take your shifter boot off, two bolts and your shifter comes off. Now the easy part- take the four 3/8's bolts off the driveline and remove, this would be application specific but I loosen my exhaust from my headers so I can put a jack under the transmission and when I take the 4 cross member bolts out I can lower the transmission down and tilt the motor back a little bit to gain access to the last four bolts holdingthe transmission to the bellhousing. I put a scissor jack under the bell housing to keep the motor from flopping back too far and hitting the distributor against the firewall and also I like a scissor jack because it won't lose fluid or anything over time. And I put my hydraulic jack under the transmission once those 4 bolts to the bell housing are out and the 4 bolts to the crossmember and wham-o its in your hands. This is a great time to check and reseal everything and even book your linkage and shifter back up and make sure everything is all correct. You can check all the washers and lubricate the shifter and all of the little grommets in between the shifter linkage. You couldn't really improve your experience with the transmissions performance but having nice tight linkage.
edit: I almost forgot you'll have to unplug the reverse light and undo the speedo cable
I don't have that stuff in my car
Click to expand...

You are pretty much spot on, I can make a few more suggestions:
Pop the distributor cap off, super easy slide it towards the front of the motor.
After tacking the trans cross-member bolts out, just let the jack down, the center link on the steering will touch the oil pan before the distributor hits the fire wall.
This will give alot more clearance for the trans bolts.
Use alot of 3/8 extensions, with a wobble socket and you can take the top bolts out with an air ratchet.
 
sireland67 said:
Use alot of 3/8 extensions, with a wobble socket and you can take the top bolts out with an air ratchet.
Click to expand...
OR, when I converted my car to a 4 speed I put some simple sealer and some self tapping screws in my floor hump. So, I simply remove the hump and sit in the drivers seat with a short extension and remove the top bolts. :D
 
j par said:
OR, when I converted my car to a 4 speed I put some simple sealer and some self tapping screws in my floor hump. So, I simply remove the hump and sit in the drivers seat with a short extension and remove the top bolts. :D
Click to expand...

Sneaky, but my car has carpet.
Good idea, makes everything real simple.
 
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