Weight loss.

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The glove box door. Lost the BARRACUDA script but the fish is there. The script was actually separate piece and stayed in the mold.

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The bottom dash pads. The little one should have been a two piece mold.

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The bezel, lost the bezel in the mold process, it was a pretty butchered spare watch to begin with.

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Awesome work, great to see this. You really ran with this !!!
 
A bit more progress on the dash. I’m at the point of the filler work on the frame and “pads” is almost finished. The lower pads are bonded/bolted to the frame. Now I onto the little detail finish of the cluster and working out a shelf for the ignition box etc behind the glove box door. A little putty and paint make it what it ain’t!!

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When can I pick up the one you make for me? Ready for MIR?
 
Hopefully it will be ready for MIR. Helps having the other car. Fit it to that so it should be just a pull the dash out and install this one. Connect the amp meter leads together and plug in the light switch, key, mount the gauges to the bottom. Do have to make a shelf for the ignition box.
 
Can't believe I've missed this thread. Great work!

You're in CT right? I've seen your car run many times over the years and probably chatted with you in the pits once or twice. A 10 second ET seems like it might be within reach.
 
I work with carbon fiber every day, where I work we manufacture aircraft parts.
The way we dispose of rolls of carbon fiber pre-preg, is to un-roll them, in the parking lot.
Let the sun cure the material, cut the material up with scissors, and in the dumpster it goes.
Legal way of disposing of material.
 
Yep, in CT. It’s like paint, hazardous waste when a liquid. Let it cure and it isn’t anymore. I think a high 10 is possible, pretty sure going to a roller cam might get me there. Solid flat tappet now.
 
That came out awesome! That's a big weight savings off the front. Think you'd be able to get away with a C.F. hood if it was painted to match?

Who/what is the lid for though? If I'm not mistaken, with a '68 Formula S 340 you would have a round, un-silenced air cleaner assembly, no?
 
They are for another FAST car. Can’t do body panels in FAST.

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Tried to ease the transition to the out boards, the choke horn kills it with the center.

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Yeah, I just haven’t gotten around to making the correct one for myself. I’m not sure how much my unsilenced one weighs.
 
Well, a problem has come to light, anyone see an issue with my 6 pack housing? Other than the air pockets.

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The OP mentioned early in this thread about vacuum bagging parts, which has advantages, but it's not mainly strength, its more weight savings as it optimizes epoxy to fiber ratios. making for a lighter part without sacrificing strength much.
Additionally, on structural or semi structural components, and the bumper brackets are the only item on this thread that seems to apply, a few layers of Kevlar properly included would prevent your bumper from departing and/or being run over in a minor shunt, and I consider that a big plus.

Me personally, I would not run pure CF on any bumpers on a street car, but then I live in Florida, and CF offers nearly zero collision protection.
CF IMO is a wonder material, and nobody should be afraid to utilize it. I've worked with FG for 50 years, and for past 15? I have shifted almost exclusively to CF, and have never looked back.
Somewhere else on this site I posted pics of my recent 62 Lancer CF hood and Trunk remakes.
 
Vacuum bag parts will increase strength, because it removes gasses, and compacts the part better.
Good CF parts are made in an autoclave, by vacuum bagging, then the chamber applies pressure to compact the fibers.
 
sireland67 said:
Vacuum bag parts will increase strength, because it removes gasses, and compacts the part better.
Good CF parts are made in an autoclave, by vacuum bagging, then the chamber applies pressure to compact the fibers.
Click to expand...
An autoclave is not an option for DIY members here, I question the significance of the gases (or is it entrained air?) you mention that vacuum bag removes, and a compacted part is not inherently stronger by simply being thinner, actually the reverse might be true.
I have used 5000lb concrete blocks to compress had laid CF wing struts between steel plates in place of vacuum bagging, with satisfactory results, being vacuum bag maximum is only 14+lb psi.
 
The car is 99% race, I did use alternating directions for the bumper brackets. I have absolute confidence in them holding the steel bumper and zero confidence in a crash.
 
Not willing to make a structural complex part, just a ham fisted monkey.
 
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