Weird 727 problem

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70Swinger510

70Swinger510

Bay Area Swinger
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Ok to make a long story short, last thanksgiving I was driving my duster when a steel plate that covers road trenches wobbled and caught my headers square, was a solid impact and it mangled my headers, the car sat, and sat, and finally got some insurance money, I bought a nice used set of TTi's for cheap, I never played with the shifter from the momment it got off the tow truck, it rolled back and forth no problem.

The problem I have now is it rolls forward but when I try to roll it backwards it binds up and won't move, like it stuck in park. The only thing I played with during the header install was the linkage, B&M, which I removed and put back, Also there is a weird long bolt looking thing above the front trans cooler line, it has a nut and like a square head on it, i removed that and sealed it because it was leaking fluid, could this have done something inside the trans to keep it from rolling in reverse? no matter what gear I'm in nuetral, reverse, D 1 or 2 it rolls forward but not in reverse.. any ideas? could I have broken something inside the transmission?

Thanks
-Chris
 
long thread bolt with square head and jam nut?

front band adjuster.....well....now for the bad news...

you will need to drop pan on trans and put adjuster back in....and hopefully it will engage the band and you can get the band strut back in place...
 
That weird long bolt thing with the square head is the front band adjustment. If you removed it it's possible the parts that attach it to the front band fell out of place and are laying in the pan. So you need to pull the pan and make sure to get them back in place. Then you need to adjust it. The proper way to adjust it is to back off the locknut and torque the inner screw down (the one with the square head) to 72 inch lbs. with a small inch lb. torque wrench then back it off 2-1/14~2-1/2 turns. Then hold it right where it is and tighten the locknut down securely. If you didn't completely remove the bolt you might have been lucky enough that the parts didn't fall out of place therefore you can try just the adjustment first and see if that fixes it. BTW: what ever you do don't try to drive it until you do this as it will destroy the trans very quickly if not adjusted right.
 
70aarcuda said:
long thread bolt with square head and jam nut?

front band adjuster.....well....now for the bad news...

you will need to drop pan on trans and put adjuster back in....and hopefully it will engage the band and you can get the band strut back in place...
Click to expand...

Sorry to be a mimic Tony. I started typing my response then left for a few minutes and came back and hit post. Then see you said the same thing. But at least he has 2 guys saying the same thing. LOL
 
Here's a try at it. Hopefully this comes out legible. Well it looks like even though I tried to cut out the excess it's still there. Look on the lower left side for the picture with where I have pointers saying what can fall out. BTW: This is the view with the valve body removed. I don't think you will be able to put them in place with the valve body in place.
 
Ok an update,

I pull the pan and valve body, the levers are intact and did not fall out. I tried to torque the adjuster but its rounded and could only get a wrench on it, it looks to be in the same position as when i pulled it out.seems pretty close... I hope.

So i put everything back together I havn't started it yet, because I wanted a 2nd opinion, I put the trans in every gear and still does not want to spin in reverse.. do you guys think If i start it that it will free itself? I'm not sure what to do, car is at my friends shop and needs to be gone, and I can't afford a rebuild! I'll check in tomarrow and see what you guys have to say.

-Chris
 
Do not start the car!!!!! That adjustment is critical. If the square adjuster is rounded, you will have to make a tool that will fit on your torque wrench and fit on the adjuster. Better yet, get a new adjuster. This adjustment has to be right. As said earlier, your transmission won't last very long without this adjustment being right.

Jack
 
Coyote Jack said:
Do not start the car!!!!! That adjustment is critical. If the square adjuster is rounded, you will have to make a tool that will fit on your torque wrench and fit on the adjuster. Better yet, get a new adjuster. This adjustment has to be right. As said earlier, your transmission won't last very long without this adjustment being right.

Jack
Click to expand...

Jack is dead on. If that adjustment isn't right it'll trash the trans. in a heartbeat. What will happen is the trans. will try to be in 2 different gears at once. That just don't work. It could even grenade the trans.

As far as the adjuster being rounded it is a square head that has rounded corners and takes a square 8 point socket. It would be nearly impossible to round that adjuster off because it's hardened steel and the band strut would either bend or you'd break an ear off the band before you ever stripped the adjuster. Exceptions do happen of course. Like if somebody tried to crank it down with the locknut tight. Try an 8 point socket on it and see what happens. I think its a 5/16" 8 point that fits if I remember right. If it is stripped I probably have an extra out in my spare trans parts I can send you. Just pm me if you need it.
 
oK I will give it another shot tonite, 5/16 8 point. so after the adjustment is correct, should i try and start it even though im still getting no reverse? car hasnt been started in approx 6 months.

-Chris
 
70Swinger510 said:
oK I will give it another shot tonite, 5/16 8 point. so after the adjustment is correct, should i try and start it even though im still getting no reverse? car hasnt been started in approx 6 months.

-Chris
Click to expand...

Sure. Once you torque the adjuster to 72 inch lbs (not foot lbs) back it off 2-1/4 to 2-1/2 turns then lock the locknut down tight and it should be ready to go. Most likely the reason you didn't have reverse is the front band adjustment was cranked down locking the hub in place. That locks it in 2 gears at once so naturally it wouldn't move.

BTW: due to the design on the torqueflite it is normally harder to turn a torqueflite backwards. Takes about 2-3 times the effort to spin it backwards. But you should be able to do it by hand.
 
This is confusing, first the OP says it hasn't been started in 6 months, how can you possibly tell the trans is the problem if you haven't started it? Just starting it and putting in the gears isn't going to grenade anything, just don't try to force it if it doesn't want to move.

If you are just trying to push it or turn the driveshaft then maybe there isn't anything wrong with it or maybe the rear brakes (still got drums?) are just adjusted too tight.
 
Guitar Jones said:
This is confusing, first the OP says it hasn't been started in 6 months, how can you possibly tell the trans is the problem if you haven't started it? Just starting it and putting in the gears isn't going to grenade anything, just don't try to force it if it doesn't want to move.

If you are just trying to push it or turn the driveshaft then maybe there isn't anything wrong with it or maybe the rear brakes (still got drums?) are just adjusted too tight.
Click to expand...


Well I first noted the problem when we pushed the car off the rack, we rolled it forwards and then tried to roll it back into an open spot. it wouldnt roll backwards, i had to jack it up and remove the drive shaft for it to roll backwards. The driveshaft will not spin backwards. I was in a little accident with the car reason why is hasnt run, I'm wondering now if something broke inside the transmission. or I locked 2 gears together by removing the front adjuster and installing it without torquing, so I'm gonna torque it in a few hours when I get home, and try to start in neutral and see what happens.

-Chris
 
Guitar Jones said:
This is confusing, first the OP says it hasn't been started in 6 months, how can you possibly tell the trans is the problem if you haven't started it? Just starting it and putting in the gears isn't going to grenade anything, just don't try to force it if it doesn't want to move.

If you are just trying to push it or turn the driveshaft then maybe there isn't anything wrong with it or maybe the rear brakes (still got drums?) are just adjusted too tight.
Click to expand...

The reason I said it could grenade the trans is because of his statement below I've highlighted. I realize he didn't say he might cram the gas pedal but if you look at his posts there is some confusion so I think my statement was warranted. Just trying to expound on safety.

70Swinger510 said:
I put the trans in every gear and still does not want to spin in reverse.. do you guys think If i start it that it will free itself?
-Chris
Click to expand...
..
 
Yeah I understand but putting an automatic in gear without the engine running is like sticking your member in a bait bucket, it might smell close and even feel somewhat similar but it ain't gonna do nothing! :)
 
Guitar Jones said:
Yeah I understand but putting an automatic in gear without the engine running is like sticking your member in a bait bucket, it might smell close and even feel somewhat similar but it ain't gonna do nothing! :)
Click to expand...

Yeah, but he asked "if he started it would it free itself". :-D
 
So I Havn't been able to start it, tried to start and my starter was getting bound up on the flywheel, I took it off and tighted it, one of those POS power master mini's. gonna try tomarrow, should i start it in nuetral? or park when I finally do get it running?

-Chris
 
Ok guys, I got everything together and running, and have run into a new set of problems, It may be my shifter linkage adjustment, but i was sure I was dead on, (b&M floor shifter)

Depending on which gear im in first, reverse or drive if I shift into neutral it act's like it is in either gear, so if i'm in reverse and I shift into neutral, it seems like its still in reverse, If i'm in drive and shift into neutral it stays n drive, could i have gotten the forward band ajustment wrong?

Thanks in advance!

-Chris
 
70Swinger510 said:
Bump! Anyone have any clues?

-Chris
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Get underneath and check that the plastic outer coating on the B+M shift cable hasn't got a melted area on it from being to close to the exhaust. With the plastic coate damaged the inner wire sheath will seperate and allow the inner shifter cable to push out instead of operate the tranny shift lever. Done that been there. If this isn't the problem check the cable adjustment.
 
The band adjustment won't cause that problem. I can't think of anything other than a shifter problem that would do that. Check the cable like Terry said and make absolutely certain it is operating the trans lever correctly. Getting someone to move the shifter through the gears while you watch it down below is the best way to make sure it's working right.
 
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