What are my options (harmonic balancer)

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JohnFM3

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I am working on a 1973 plymouth duster with a slant six. I havent touched a slant six in over 20 years, since that time working with Jeep 4.0's. I am persuing a interesting project, and am looking for a harmonic balancer with the smallest Outer Diameter I can find which will fit the 225 crank. Dont care about timing marks. Ideally would like NO belt groove at all like some of the V8 options.

Does anyone have any options? My search abilities seem to be low one points, as I am not having any luck locating some sort of chart showing different factory slant six dimensions.

Any idea's?

Thanks ~ John
 
They all have belt grooves and they are all interchangeable as far as balance. All slant six engines are internally balanced. The only differences I am aware of is they have different timing mark locations from early to late for example, but I don't know where that split is.
 
RustyRatRod said:
They all have belt grooves and they are all interchangeable as far as balance. All slant six engines are internally balanced. The only differences I am aware of is they have different timing mark locations from early to late for example, but I don't know where that split is.
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dano said:
Take a stocker to a lathe and remove what you want. Balance results may vary.
Click to expand...
Are there other options which fit the crank snout that could be modified. I am really trying to find one with a smaller OD which is my primary goal.

That is my second option and something I have thought about. Mainly as I do own a lathe. I recall the 170 having a smaller OD, but can not seem to find a supplier which sells them new as a starting point.

I am doing some research for a project I am going to tackle based on the outcome of this question. I may end up buying a Grizzly Mill for XMass this holiday season as a result :)
 
Don't turn down the inertia ring on a lathe. Unless you want to increase the frequency response of the damper. 65
 
Internal balanced big block balancers will also fit, but of course the timing marks will not be right. Maybe there are some smaller diameter balancers there.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Internal balanced big block balancers will also fit, but of course the timing marks will not be right. Maybe there are some smaller diameter balancers there.
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I am not concerned about timing marks. Those will be re carved in the correct place. Just seeking a smaller OD which will fit the slant six crank.

Do you have yr and size suggestions?
 
JohnFM3 said:
I am not concerned about timing marks. Those will be re carved in the correct place. Just seeking a smaller OD which will fit the slant six crank.

Do you have yr and size suggestions?
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Now how would I know THAT? Do YOU have a size idea? I certainly would not.
 
I also don't know how they will work as far as pressing on. I don't think they'll bottom against anything, but I am not sure.
 
With your big block statement, I guessing you knew from experience. As such I am asking a question of someone who may know more than I on the topic of big block harmonic balancers.
 
JohnFM3 said:
With your big block statement, I guessing you knew from experience. As such I am asking a question of someone who may know more than I on the topic of big block harmonic balancers.
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No problem. Crank snouts are the same size. Beyond that, I don't know.
 
blower hub.jpg

That ring comes off if you really want it smalled up
 

JohnFM3 said:
I am trying to maintain the general functionality of the harmonic balancer. That would defeat the purpose of having it.
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Correct. You don't want the inertia ring removed. Then it's not a vibration damper anymore. How small do you need it to be? You've never eluded to that.
 
mercury filled damper from some kind of boat engine plant/truck engine?

maybe they are bigger not smaller.... just thinking out loud its old tech....
 
Damper that fit 440 engine will fit a slant six. So a "aftermarket" damper with a smaller diameter should work. There would be no belt groove, and the distance from the front of the engine is different.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Correct. You don't want the inertia ring removed. Then it's not a vibration damper anymore. How small do you need it to be? You've never eluded to that.
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I am hoping to reduce 3/4 to 1 inch off diameter .

Charrlie_S said:
Damper that fit 440 engine will fit a slant six. So a "aftermarket" damper with a smaller diameter should work. There would be no belt groove, and the distance from the front of the engine is different.
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Thank you, this gives me something to research further. At least there are aftermarket option as it's a v8.

More to come.
 
It looks like the 440 option may be a good starting point. If my research is correct, summit racing has one thats 6.6 in OD. OEM weight is roughly eigther 6.25lb or 10.80 lb depending on which version. Summit racing one weight is undocumented.

More to come.
 
I have been hesitant to state the purpose as I have seen threads who have suggested this project get torn down with the typical excuses. That said, the project is a Serpentine belt setup. I believe I can use 4.0 pulleys to make this work. My thought is to create a pulley on my lathe that bolts to the front of the dampener, and wraps over the dampener with a +.01 inch fit. Then use the jeep pulleys to complete the system. This is the reason for needing a smaller diam pulley, ideally with no groove. I retain as much weight as possible while giving myself space to get as close to the original slant six OD.

The other idea is to use a Jeep 4.0L harmonic balance. Slip press fit a outer ring to the crank seal surface to match the slant six, then turn the inner diam to 1.5 inch (from 1.125 I believe) and possibly re cut the crank key hole the extra 3/16 a inch. And to all who know me, they have seen my Jeep 4.0L in a Barracuda build thread. Those will understand my interest in Jeep 4.0L... lol

The jeep harmonic balancer route is very feasible. The mopar 440 route has some great benefits such as not having to cut the ID to match. Turning a drive pulley to wrap over the 440 dampener would be simple lathe work. The cost of Aluminum would be the largest hurdle to get over. And thats not that much. Assuming I go with aluminum and not some form of steel.
 
I'd probably bore out the Jeep damper myself. Extra points if you can get a crank keyway cut to make the timing marks line up.

There are serpentine belt alternators that are close to bolt on; something off a 318 Magnum for example.
 
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