The replies are phenominal! Thank you all so much. I had no idea Chrysler motors were high rpm motors. I'm no stranger to forged eternals. I had a forged aluminum piston/rod set up on a sbc and it holds extremely well. I'd like to keep and refurbish the crank, everything else is a go. Don't mind TRW forged units. I'm guessing the cylinder walls are thick enough to bore over .030?. I would def have the heads rebuilt unless it'd be smarter to spend an additional 1-$200 for aftermarket heads.
I guess what would help is to know the peak powerband for these motors in street(weekend strip use)? I'm guessing moly rings are best unless you guys think it's overkill. No power adders, just would like to run on pump gas.
HEY! Thanks from myself and on behalf of the group, I hope we get passing grades.
FYI
A short stroke engine is a natural high RPM engine. AKA 273/318/340 with there 3.31 stroke and the 350/361/383/400 B engines with there slightly bigger stroke @ 3.38.
The longer stroked S/B comes in at 3.58 and the lovely aftermarket arms with the most popular being a 4 incher.
The big blocks 426/440 come in @ 3.75.
You may find TRW slugs heavy. Shop around and look up weights. Less is better. On overbores, yes, .030 is a shoe in, .060 should be sonic checked first.
Hensley Performance is takeing 318 (3.91 bore) engines and sonic checking them to be sure there good. IF there found to be in good shape, they take'em to a 4.00 bore and give them a 4 inch arm. That's a .090 overbore.
Not all smnall blocks can take that and live happily ever after. In overboreing, less is better for stronger cylinder walls. Non flexing walls is good for sealing up the mix and making power.
Spending 1200+ dolors on aluminum heads is a catch 22. While many will balk at it, because you can take your iron head preety damn far for less, it is a bolt on deal in general. They should be looked at by a pro shop and double checked for the little things mass produced places don't allways look hard at. Valve seat run out, correctly assembled diamentions, etc.....
So those aluminum heads, if not perfect out of the box, could cost even more money. Not such a good deal sometimes. Mine were fine and worked well though.
Your J heads can flow enuff air to make a serious screamer.
OH, Moly rings are just fine and standard in my rebuilds. Why not? What the heck. Fast seating/sealing. win win!
Street guys power bands are a constant variable and are preety much a end user item for there desire. Nevermind there desire, what's yours? Target it, shoot it, enjoy it.
Theres allways somebody faster. If it helps, target a time frame, AKA 1/4 mile time. Build it for that.
In general, most hot rods/street machines operate in the 1800 - 5800 to 2500 - 65000 rpm band. IMO, this is an ideal hot rod area. Though many drivers exceed this by 500 to a 1,000 rpm's, that's there choice.
Theres also a old addage that still remains true to this day. Years back, someone coined the phrase, High perfromance = high maintainance. The more power you make, the more parts will break.
