What Are You Doing To/With Your Car Today?

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Got my new speedmaster roller rockers installed, overall they're pretty decent and they lined up very nicely on the sweep.let there be RPMs!!

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I spend every day hitting the "like" button on all these post.... I can't wait until I'm posting here again!
Still in the process of moving, then I have to put my new garage together again. ..........THEN I can start assembling the 'Cuda again!
THEN I'll be posting here again like mad!

Gratuitous photo of the 'Cuda in waiting. ..

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Jeff
 
Went and got some furniture dollys and made rolling engine and transmission carts for the move...

Here's the old 318 and the new 392 next to it ......

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And my 727.....

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Jeff
 
Cut out a rusted "from cat pee" 4" X 8" section of the pass floor and cut a good section out of a used floor pan, hopefully I can get the new section welded in this weekend after a lot of practicing first!
 
Painted the other side of the brake parts and pulleys tonight. Tomorrow will hopefully be another coat. Hoping to start rebuilding the shifter tomorrow.
 
Cut out a rusted "from cat pee" 4" X 8" section of the pass floor and cut a good section out of a used floor pan, hopefully I can get the new section welded in this weekend after a lot of practicing first!
This floorpan stuff sure seems to going around lately!!
 
That sure looks a lot like the same exact brand pan I used. But it couldn't be 'cause your welds look 200% better than mine!! Or maybe it's just that driver sides just weld up differently....
 
That sure looks a lot like the same exact brand pan I used. But it couldn't be 'cause your welds look 200% better than mine!! Or maybe it's just that driver sides just weld up differently....
I don't do sub standard work. The quality on the part was really good.
 
44 degrees and sunny today here on the hill.
Hope to get the wire welder set and get these lower fender parts on and sealed..I hope.
66 Sedan

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The brake parts painted whid epoxy primer and top coute all in place and onley the bleading left to do tomorow

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What will you guys put on the floor after the floorpan is done for protection?
Mine got good ole Rustoleum Rusty Metal primer brushed on then some semi-gloss black Rustoleum. I'm now putting a 3/8" sticky foam pad that has the silver foil on top, then 3/8" jute pad on top of that, then the carpet (which will still have some jute in some areas).
Underside gets Rustoleum Rusty Metal primer then semi-gloss black, some SEM seam sealer, then maybe some undercoat. This repair will live well beyond me as the car will only see rain by accident!!
WIP - the whole front pan will be covered when done. I'll trim around throttle pedal as needed!
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Gonna do upper and lower minivan 3.6 intake gaskets and replace the cracked knock sensor plug if the wife ever gives me 2 hours with the car. May as well do plugs with the intake off.
 
Taping and masking. I will throw paint on trunk compartment, inside the cabin and in the engine bay myself. I don't know yet if I'll try to do finish paint on the body. This will tell me if I've picked up enough skill to do a decent job.
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Gonna do upper and lower minivan 3.6 intake gaskets and replace the cracked knock sensor plug if the wife ever gives me 2 hours with the car. May as well do plugs with the intake off.

Shouldn't be too bad those Pentastars are designed well to be serviced easily. I did the oil cooler/filter housing on my mom's 2014 300C and it was easier than I expected going into it.

I'm about to hit the gym then replace the spark plugs on the 360 in my D200. I installed a Pertronix Digital HP box and Flamethrower III coil last weekend, now I just need to round it out with fresh wider-gapped plugs. I can safely say a multi-spark CD ignition WILL give noticeable improvements in throttle response, power and MPG even on a stock engine; previously it had a stock coil and Ignitor I module in the distributor and it ran fine but definitely not as smooth and responsive as it is now.
 
Did all 12 gaskets. looked at the oil cooler again and found possible leakage (again) so I replaced the O-ring inside the cooler (bottom plate comes off to show you an O-ring) and ran a small 1/32 rubber bed under the 4 cooler to base O-rings to give them a little more sealing power. Well see if thats where it was leaking from as I could detect a little bit of warpage in the plastic base part. Also grafted on a new plug for the knock sensor. The new one didnt come with a lock wire (BS!) and I didnt have the old one but it was a very secure fit. Same plug as the older Delphi injectors. Smooth sailing until I broke a plastic vacuum hose from the intake to somewhere along the back of the firewall, slipped a 3/8 rubber hose over the 2 briken ends and it worked great. No way these modern vehicles are gonna survive 55 years like our old Mopars. Too much brittle plastic BS on these motors!
 
Did all 12 gaskets. looked at the oil cooler again and found possible leakage (again) so I replaced the O-ring inside the cooler (bottom plate comes off to show you an O-ring) and ran a small 1/32 rubber bed under the 4 cooler to base O-rings to give them a little more sealing power. Well see if thats where it was leaking from as I could detect a little bit of warpage in the plastic base part. Also grafted on a new plug for the knock sensor. The new one didnt come with a lock wire (BS!) and I didnt have the old one but it was a very secure fit. Same plug as the older Delphi injectors. Smooth sailing until I broke a plastic vacuum hose from the intake to somewhere along the back of the firewall, slipped a 3/8 rubber hose over the 2 briken ends and it worked great. No way these modern vehicles are gonna survive 55 years like our old Mopars. Too much brittle plastic BS on these motors!
Hope the new gaskets do the trick. I know you have been tinkering with the oil pressure and leak issue for awhile.I have seen a lot of leaks from the o ring on the cap. Leak is hard to detect as the housing is so black, especially with clean oil.Trick is to to wrap a strip of masking tape around the housing,just below the cap.You will be able to see the trail of oil easier if it’s leaking.RJ
 
I'm headed to the parts store is what I'm doing....or maybe I'll just wrap all of my hoses with duct tape? I got lucky and found this leak in the parking lot of the dollar store after I was finished shopping. I turned around and headed right back in for some duct tape, a towel, and some water.

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Engine is pretty much done until the carburetor shows up on my doorstep. No rest for my tired bones, when I wore a younger man's clothes it would be nothing to lift this off the floor. Nowadays it's a well-rehearsed choreography scene with sound effects thrown in for good measure.

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I'm headed to the parts store is what I'm doing....or maybe I'll just wrap all of my hoses with duct tape? I got lucky and found this leak in the parking lot of the dollar store after I was finished shopping. I turned around and headed right back in for some duct tape, a towel, and some water.

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Hope you got distilled water, or plan to flush it.

New spark plugs in the truck went fine except for one terminal that ripped out of one of the plug cables, got that fixed without too much trouble though. I also pulled out about 2 degrees of base timing as it pinged just a smidge on the first test drive; she runs like a champ now, very smooth and responsive I'm glad I did the ignition upgrade. And now the ignition system will be ready for when the time comes to swap a built 440 for the mostly-stock 360.

If anyone is looking for a multi-spark Capacitive Discharge box not made by MSD I'd recommend the Pertronix Digital HP, for $240 you get something half the size of a typical MSD box but has 3-step (burnout, launch, fatal) rev limiter and a bunch of other programmable settings like start retard and doesn't require the stupid 'pills' like MSD boxes. I believe it's also designed to be incorporated with standalone EFI systems. I've barely put any miles on it so can't say how reliable or long-lasting they are but so far I like it a lot. You can even "bench-program" the box with a typical small 9V battery it's pretty neat.
 
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