What Champion Plug ru Using in you 340?

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By the way out here in the Phoenix AZ area both Orelileys and Autozone are out or limited stock on all the non racing Champions we discussed here.
 
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And I have the walnut shells as well lol
 
NGK Copper plugs were in use in the mid 70s. I had them in my Honda m/cycle. The Champion R-6 plugs did not have copper & fouled very quickly. I remember adverts by Champion rubbishing the NGK copper plugs, saying the copper would melt, yada, yada
Now Champion &...........the others use copper.

The copper centre electrode has NOTHING to do with electrode tip material, which could be steel, Plat, Irid, Yttrium, etc.

The copper is NEVER exposed to the flame; it is enclosed in a nickel steel jacket. What the copper did was to extend the heat range of the plug. It removed heat faster so that a hotter plug can be used to burn off deposits, but not cause pre-ign at higher loads.

Those who really want to learn [ & not the BS in this thread ] about spark plugs, heat range, spark gap etc should buy the Bosch Automotive Handbook. I have the 9th edition, 1544 pages. There is 8 pages of fine print on ign systems.
 
NGK Copper plugs were in use in the mid 70s. I had them in my Honda m/cycle. The Champion R-6 plugs did not have copper & fouled very quickly. I remember adverts by Champion rubbishing the NGK copper plugs, saying the copper would melt, yada, yada
Now Champion &...........the others use copper.

The copper centre electrode has NOTHING to do with electrode tip material, which could be steel, Plat, Irid, Yttrium, etc.

The copper is NEVER exposed to the flame; it is enclosed in a nickel steel jacket. What the copper did was to extend the heat range of the plug. It removed heat faster so that a hotter plug can be used to burn off deposits, but not cause pre-ign at higher loads.

Those who really want to learn [ & not the BS in this thread ] about spark plugs, heat range, spark gap etc should buy the Bosch Automotive Handbook. I have the 9th edition, 1544 pages. There is 8 pages of fine print on ign systems.

What BS? Did you notice I said it the material the center wire is made from not the CORE? Or did you slip that part.

Just dumb. What does the book say that is different from what I said since we both know you think what I said was BS but you didn’t have the guts to say it?
 
Your talking about my 69 swinger in 1980's when I pulled the plugs out of a 72 318 Duster . I tried the plugs to see if they worked better and the car ran like ****. It would not twist up and lost power. The 9's I put in the Duster I didn't notice any difference. But that car didn't run that good compared to the 340 cars. I used the Duster just to haul parts .

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Turk.
Post #66 is BS. And much of what you say. The link below comes from a successful drag racer from the 80s & 90s. He wrote two automotive books & produced a video cassette on porting.

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I think many folks on this forum have no idea of the operating temp range of modern copper electrode plugs. You run your 10 or 12 sec car at the strip; coolant temp might go up slightly over the 12 secs...or not at all. How much heat can the spark plug electrodes increase by in 12 secs of exposure to higher temps? 50 or 100*F. More?
Modern plugs have a 750* F operating range. Not 200, not 400, but 750*. The lower temp is selected by spark plug heat range to be hot enough to burn off deposits so that misfires do not occur as load & heat increases. That leaves 750* of increased temp at the plug tip before the tip gets hot enough to cause pre-ign. Is the plug tip going to increase temp by 750* in 12 sec? I doubt it.

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Turk.
Post #66 is BS. And much of what you say. The link below comes from a successful drag racer from the 80s & 90s. He wrote two automotive books & produced a video cassette on porting.

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lol. So you can’t refute it but it’s BS.

Got it.

BTW, some “experts” run the engine as hot as you can because it makes more power.

The same “expert” wrote the above.

Edit: WTF did I say in post 66 that’s bullshit?

There is something wrong with you.
 
I think many folks on this forum have no idea of the operating temp range of modern copper electrode plugs. You run your 10 or 12 sec car at the strip; coolant temp might go up slightly over the 12 secs...or not at all. How much heat can the spark plug electrodes increase by in 12 secs of exposure to higher temps? 50 or 100*F. More?
Modern plugs have a 750* F operating range. Not 200, not 400, but 750*. The lower temp is selected by spark plug heat range to be hot enough to burn off deposits so that misfires do not occur as load & heat increases. That leaves 750* of increased temp at the plug tip before the tip gets hot enough to cause pre-ign. Is the plug tip going to increase temp by 750* in 12 sec? I doubt it.

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Nothing new in this post.

If you ever tuned a boat or a road course car you’d see your error.

Because some “expert” prints it you buy it.
 
Well my block is a 73 running J heads with TRW 12:1 pistons. Compression is a little high on pump gas as it’s not stock so I want to go with one heat range from stock. Which I believe to be rn9yc or n9y not sure of the difference.

When you go to Champions ******* web site they use different part numbers like 405 for some dam reason.

Then you go to technical help they have no heat range charts or anything but they do show you how to change oil!

Dam retards over there or maybe someone can prove me wrong and show that Im the retard.
I run the N9YC in my 69 and 70 340's. That is what the book calls for and I have never had an issue with them. You asked about the difference between the two plugs. The "R" refers to a resistor plug, for the radio interference and the "C" is stating, it is a copper core plug. The N12 and N13 plugs are for the later LA motors, with a lower compression rating.
 
Few months ago I was looking at an older youtube that 318Wilrun has. Someone sent him some Champion Since they did not like um. His application did just fine with um. I got a pile of um at less than a buck. Think it was 79 cents. Gud enough fur me. I have over spent in the hobby so it's run what ya got. I also have little over a 120 oil filters most are private label Wix. It was all old stock at 70 ish bucks for a 150ish filters. So ya know what I am gonna use.
I must be an old fart. I remember paying $.79 for N9Y plugs and could buy them on sale for $.50. I still have a MOPAR set of plugs that are still in the box. Saving for a rainy day.
 
I must be an old fart. I remember paying $.79 for N9Y plugs and could buy them on sale for $.50. I still have a MOPAR set of plugs that are still in the box. Saving for a rainy day.
90% of my silly never get to use um all before I die oil filter and spark plug collection came from the local auto parts place that big chains ran broke. And when CarQuest was bought out by Adavance.
Man I miss going with Hot Rod place and Bull **** with the guys who came in and the owner. Even the regular Auto Parts place was kinda a Hot Rodders Place. Kenny the owner was friends with My dad. He had a black Dodge van with a 440. It was all 70s van captain charirs full interior with bed in back.
The Chevy Dealer was on the main highway US 61 but was also on my street as the other street corner. They would deliver my parts and pick up cores. And the driver deliberately stops by to see what I was up to and BS. And see if I was OK or needed something.
 
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