What convertor for a 482 lift cam

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cudacrazy67

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I'm having my 340 built as we speak. It has a comp cam with 482 lift. Will the stock convertor be good or should I step it up a little? 73 duster 340/727. 323 gears. Power brakes if that matters. Any thoughts on this matter. Please let me know. Thanks, mike.
 
the comp cam site should have the suggested converter for that cam. i dont have a link in front of me, but it will probably be in the 2500-2800 range. the 3.23 should be a decent gear for it.
 
My buddy has the same cam in his and he has a 2500 stall. He didnt have enough vacaum at idle.Comp cams said I should be able to use my stock stall. It is a street car with very little track time if any.
 
Which comp cam?

Not enough idle vacuum may not be a cam issue, depending on the duration. Lots of times low vacuum is rooted in ignition setting. The total timing crew falls victim to this a lot!
 
crackedback said:
Which comp cam?

Not enough idle vacuum may not be a cam issue, depending on the duration. Lots of times low vacuum is rooted in ignition setting. The total timing crew falls victim to this a lot!
Click to expand...

but the mopar engine manual says so !
 
AdamR said:
but the mopar engine manual says so !
Click to expand...

I must be banished for contradicting the "bible"... How foolish of me.

I can't see a 482 lift cam from comp having any issues with vacuum unless it's the PP 484 grind. Even then, it should pull around or over 10" if set up correctly.

Converter, get a good 2500-3000 model and it will work well.
 
I don't have the specs in front of me now, still at builders shop. So it may or may not work is what your telling me?
 
Stock converter will work, BUT, you may be disappointed in the sluggish feeling on takeoff. I run a Comp cam with a little less lift and with the 2.76 gears that were in it and the stock converter it was a real dog on takeoff. I'm also running a 318 presently going to build a 360/408. Once I got into the powerband of the cam it was OK. I switched to 3.55's and that did make a difference but still a little doggy from a standstill.

When I rebuild my trans I will be looking at a custom built converter from, most likely, PTC somewhere in the neighborhood of 3200 stall.

It really depends on what you expect out of the car. For a little stoplight to stoplight fun you will want a little more stall. A custom built converter would probably be better than an off the shelf one in the long run. These companies will ask for all of the specs on your car and intended usage and build one accordingly. It will perform better from a standstill and still have decent street manners.
 
Main focus is like posted above, with usage of the vehicle.

What gears you have? What tires you have? What are you doing 80% of your driving style like? What is the exact torque curve expected of your engine? Ask your engine builder all the exact specs of the build or get his expert opinion of the torque curve and horse power curve (RPM). This is how you select your converter for street driving.

What is your type of driving enjoyment?

I frequently rode in a Duster w/ 284 purple shaft mild 360 with a used factory "stall" converter and 3.91 gears with 25" rear tires which was great on the street and street racing. The gear ratio allowed the car to get into its camshaft rpm range with out much delay and the reasonably tight torque converter made the car feel torquey and responsive when cruising at low rpm around town.

One thing that sucks about higher stall converters is the amount of slushy slip you feel when driving slowly or cruising below your stall rpm unless you have a really powerful motor.

So, like if your gears are say 3.23 and you are driving 60 mph with a 25" tire you will be running about 3000 rpm so your converter needs to be locked up by then or you will get more slippage and doggie feeling.

I would target your area where you expect torque and be sure the converter is locked up at the beginning of that torque curve.

An example of sluggish is when I installed a 2500 - 2700 rpm stall converter for my F150 with a stock 5.4 motor.
The whole car is setup for a low RPM stall converter (gears, trans programming, engine performance curve) and I put a higher stall torque converter unit in it like an idiot.

Total slipping dog when operating below about 2700 rpm. So in high gear (or any gear) pulling a hill at 2300 rpm the motor just slips and slides, failing to transfer half of the torque to the drive train for pulling the vehicle up the hill. When in 1st pulling up a big hill slowly the torque generated by the engine is totally lost unless it is revved up around 2500-2700. This factory engine is a 1000 - 5000 rpm engine. My torque converter should have been a 1000 rpm stall.
 
Just put a convertor in and be done with it my God man.If one day you want another bump stick with more lift and duration its done.
 
Mike look at this and also consider a shift kit.
B&M 10416 - B&M Tork Master Torque Converters
 
I got a M.P. 484 lift cam in mine. Have a B&M Hole shot. Convertor I've had
forever. 3000 stall. Works great. I'm glad i don't have power brakes. Wouldn't
have enough vacumn for it.
But all in all. Nice set up. I have found racing to bring it up to 2000 at the
line. Than nail it. Go's up to 3200 rpm's. Get's into the cams power range
better.
 
Shouldn't the duration and lobe center have more to do with the proper converter that lift?
 
I'm one those who says get gears before convertor, otherwise u may jump the intersection...but then u trip and fall and get ur *** passed...lol
3.23 is weak, and a stall like mentioned of 2500-2800 for the street would be slick.
 
My brother in law put a 2500 stall in his dart with a 340. MP .484, 727, 3:23 gears. A little slugish taking off so he then upgraded to a 3200 and loves it.
 
I had a MP 484 in my 340 with 4:30's (currently building a 408 ). Plan to use the same cam. My converter is 3800stall from dynamic. Works much better than the shitty B&M 2800 stall that was in before.
 
X2,on gears,before converter.More gear multiplication,usually drops stall speeds.
 
crackedback said:
Which comp cam?

Not enough idle vacuum may not be a cam issue, depending on the duration. Lots of times low vacuum is rooted in ignition setting. The total timing crew falls victim to this a lot!
Click to expand...

Use Rhoades variable duration lifters. They bleed down at low RPM's and "pump up" at higher RPM's. By 3500 RPM they give the full lift and duration of the cam. At idle, they take out 15° duration and about .025" of lift. This will help the engine idle at lower RPM's and smoother idle with more vacuum. I've been using them for over 20 years. Rhoades are the best variable duration lifters to use.
 
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