What do I need to watch for when getting a freshly rebuilt LA?

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Corrupt_Reverend

Corrupt_Reverend

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So I found a fellow with a freshly rebuilt 318 for sale. It's never been fired and it's on a stand so I'm trying to think of what all to check to be sure it's worth it.

So far all I know is from what he's told me:


  • New pistons
  • Bored 30 over
  • 9:1 compression ratio
  • Valve job
  • RV cams


I'm calling him again tomorrow and I'm trying to think of more questions.

I'm going to ask for receipts, but what else should I find out? Has anything I've mentioned in this post sounded sketchy?

Thanks a tonne in advance for any input you can offer,
~Rev
 
Anybody can say anything and claim anything. Unless he has itemized receipts from a respected shop, "it didn't happen."

If I don't know someone, I'm not gonna pay much for a pig in a poke.

At least pull the pan and valve covers, inspect the pistons and bores, put a couple of rod caps and at least one main and inspect. If he won't let you do that, then walk
 
Pretty close, there are variations. Also note that some of the guys give their torque without the rocker arms installed and didn't have the drag from opening the valves and the spring pressure. You have to take that in consideration and adjust your "acceptable" value accordingly. Just be aware.

Or loosen the rocker shafts before you test for torque to keep them out of the equation.

Also bring an extension in case the crank pulley is installed so you can get the socket on the vibration damper bolt. 3" or 6" should work.
 
You also don't know how qualified the person was that built the engine.

There was an article I read about reading car for sale ads. They pointed out that when they say "engine has been rebuilt" - their comment was, "by who your uncle charlie using kitchen utensils? "

I always tear an engine down and make sure that everything is ok before I spend the time and effort to install it in my car. Plastic gauge all of the main and rod bearings, check the piston rings to make sure that they spin freely on the pistons. Make sure that the ring gaps for the two thin oil rings and the two compression rings are a minimum of 90° apart when installing the pistons.

That way I can catch any mistakes that may have been made by "less experienced builders". If it blows up, then it is my fault and nobody else's. Just remember who's *** is going for a long walk home if the engine breaks....
 
krazykuda said:
You also don't know how qualified the person was that built the engine.

There was an article I read about reading car for sale ads. They pointed out that when they say "engine has been rebuilt" - their comment was, "by who your uncle charlie using kitchen utensils? "

I always tear an engine down and make sure that everything is ok before I spend the time and effort to install it in my car. Plastic gauge all of the main and rod bearings, check the piston rings to make sure that they spin freely on the pistons. Make sure that the ring gaps for the two thin oil rings and the two compression rings are a minimum of 90° apart when installing the pistons.

That way I can catch any mistakes that may have been made by "less experienced builders". If it blows up, then it is my fault and nobody else's. Just remember who's *** is going for a long walk home if the engine breaks....
Click to expand...
This is reality.Some home builders,are better than low end engine shops. A curveball: Ask a educated mopar friend /engine savvy buddy/ local FABO member ,to tag along. My .02....
 
My first engine when I got my car had a rebuild on it. They used new bearings on a wore out crank which gave me no oil pressure at idle, they did hone it and put a rv cam in it however, Do what you want in my case I bought the whole car, and spent alot to get it where it is now. But long term Im now happy. No one should have to do what we did, my car was repped as needing brake work, and a new dizzy, since than I have replaced almost every mechanical part on the car. One thing was true the body was rock solid.
 
67Dart273 said:
Anybody can say anything and claim anything. Unless he has itemized receipts from a respected shop, "it didn't happen."

If I don't know someone, I'm not gonna pay much for a pig in a poke.

At least pull the pan and valve covers, inspect the pistons and bores, put a couple of rod caps and at least one main and inspect. If he won't let you do that, then walk
Click to expand...

x2
A couple additions to this... First - never be afraid to walk away. The engine size doesn't matter, paying more for a "rebuilt" will only add to the overall cost should you have to spend to install it (even just for gaskets & fluids) and then pull it, fix whatever, and the reinstall. So get the proof, preferrably by receipts AND having someone who's familiar with what a good rebuild looks like.
Second - There are almost as many ideas of what "rebuilt" means as there are enthusuasts. They may honesly believe that because it's got new gaskets, a cam and timing set, and paint that it constitutes "rebuilt". So make sure this engine meets what you define as rebuilt. If the seller honestly thinks it is when it's sold, but you don't after you get it home - the issue is with you for not verifying it was up to your "snuff".
 
Some people's definition of "overhauled:"

bon-ami-can-home-header.jpg


engine_paints_-_universal_gray_1pt.jpg
 
If he has an air compressor where the engine is a leak down test would be nice. The numbers past the rings might be off since it hasn't been started before but you might find bad valves, cracked head, etc.

Take out the block drain plugs and swab a q tip in the water passage.

I got raped by a "freshly rebuilt motor" sale. Never again.
 
If there is a transmission attached to it, you can also do a compression test.
 
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