What do I use to messure the valves in a head

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1 Bad Duster

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I have a set of 915s I would like to find out what size valves are in the heads. They have the Casting number of a J head but it looks like a U. The heads came off a 1970 340 and there orange in color. They didn't go to blue till late 71 up..The Intake and the Exhaust Valves are almost touching.. Thanks Jimmy.
 
A vernier caliper would be the best tool for the job IMO
Available at any autoparts store, but I suggest you get a decent one
 
........If there almost touching they should be 2.02s.......looks like any gap at all 1.88s.........kim....U is a 2.02 intake valve......
 
A ruler would work. They're eitehr going to be a little bigger than 2", or a litle less. And '70 vintage 340 heads regardless of letter/casting should have 2.02s. U or X is what I'd expect to see on a '70 engine, with Js maybe on a later dated 70 assembly or '71.
 
A ruler would work. They're eitehr going to be a little bigger than 2", or a litle less. And '70 vintage 340 heads regardless of letter/casting should have 2.02s. U or X is what I'd expect to see on a '70 engine, with Js maybe on a later dated 70 assembly or '71.

I did the ruler test and they look to be at 2 or a tiny more. I have another set of magnum heads they probably have 188s they don't even come close to 2"..
 
OEM Magnums would be 1.92"/1.625" and thinner stems. Totally different head assemblies.

Thanks I was just checking to see where the magnum head valves came on the ruler. So if the 915 U head was at or a tiny bit past so there 202s right..

The heads on the 73 340 I'am using have 587 heads.
 
Yes, the OEM 915 U heads would likely be 2.02. OEM '73 587 heads should be 1.88.
 
Yes, the OEM 915 U heads would likely be 2.02. OEM '73 587 heads should be 1.88.

Thanks again..So the 915 are going on the motor it should be a better head. I can't wait till I get this car finished for I can enjoy it driving it on the street and racing it at the track.
 
Well, it all depends on the condition of the heads, how many valve jobs they've had and what you've done to the engine and drivetrain.

* Even with a new quality valve job, if a head has had several and the valves are sunk, it will flow less air.

* You can take a worn out 1.88" valve head and regrind it for a 2.02" valve and it will flow better because the seat is nice and high in the chamber.

* A 2.02" valve will work better at higher rpms, say 6,000+. But a 1.88" has the potential of running faster because it can provide more torque through the low end and mid-range, where your car spends most of the time in. (Area under the curve.)

* If you do get new valves for either head, use stainless nail-head style valves. They flow better on the intake side. Exhaust usually like more of the OEM tulip style, but it isn't a big difference.

So lots of little things to look out for.
 
Well, it all depends on the condition of the heads, how many valve jobs they've had and what you've done to the engine and drivetrain.

* Even with a new quality valve job, if a head has had several and the valves are sunk, it will flow less air.

* You can take a worn out 1.88" valve head and regrind it for a 2.02" valve and it will flow better because the seat is nice and high in the chamber.

* A 2.02" valve will work better at higher rpms, say 6,000+. But a 1.88" has the potential of running faster because it can provide more torque through the low end and mid-range, where your car spends most of the time in. (Area under the curve.)

* If you do get new valves for either head, use stainless nail-head style valves. They flow better on the intake side. Exhaust usually like more of the OEM tulip style, but it isn't a big difference.

So lots of little things to look out for.

thanks alot I'am trying to build a 7s all motor street car in the 1/8.My buddy has a stock crank and I don't know about the rods or pistons but it has a cam/intake/carb and eddy heads with 456s and 3500 stall I believe. It ran 7.22 in the 1/8..
 
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