What do you make of this, hot push rods.

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This is why I run oil thru push rods even on LA Shaft heads. This way you get pressurized oil constantly on the ball & Cup. I order my pushrods from Manton with a small EMD hole built into the pushrods. High spring pressures no problem with this lil trick.

Looks like your going to need new pushrods and adjusters. Something looks wrong as already noted. Someone set up your lash incorrectly. Pro or not looks like they messed up without a doubt.
 
When we used to assemble press fit rods, they would turn blue above 520° F. Your pushrods are probably getting near that hot.
 
In that one pic Rick pointed out, it almost looks like the wrong size adjuster was used. It appears the adjuster doesn't engage the pushrod cup all the way. With that pointed out, something looks amiss for sure. At least you've caught it before anything broke.
 
RustyRatRod said:
In that one pic Rick pointed out, it almost looks like the wrong size adjuster was used. It appears the adjuster doesn't engage the pushrod cup all the way. With that pointed out, something looks amiss for sure. At least you've caught it before anything broke.
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The adjusters were bought as a set (I will be pulling the shafts and checking everything).

This is where I am so far. I have checked the lash and will continue updating.

Lash as recomended by Lunati.....IE: .015, EX: .016

My actual:

1 I/E = .010 - .000

2 I/E = .048 - .011

3 I/E = .011 - .010

4 I/E = .006 - .010

5 I/E = .000 - .011

6 I/E = .011 - .010

7 I/E = .006 - .011

8 I/E = .005 - .011


Checked using this procedure:
 

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I still think you need shorter push rods,

1968FormulaS340 said:
The only significant change was the cam. Cam had a different base circle requiring a pushrod change.
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this may help

16 If the pushrods are the correct length, the adjusters will be centered in the rocker arms. For maximum strength, you only approximately two or three showing below the rocker body.

taken from here- check out some of the pics
(half way down that page, the picture before the pic of just the rocker shaft)
Shows a good pic of the oil hole and proper adjuster position...

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/1307_value_your_valvetrain/
 
The heat is coming from the top contact point on the pushrod; look at the gradations in color. The light brown is the lowest temp and is furtherest away from the top. These 3 pushrods certainly lost oil. You gotta figure out why. Perhaps the lash was too tight and they/something in the valve train expanded more than the block&head expansion, tightened up to zero clearance, and blocked off the oil flow. Once they get a bit hot, then they will expand more and block the hole even tighter; the situation will feed on itself.
 
Thanks guys, I'm taking seriously everyones suggestions while I work through this.

I got stalled mid stream in the evaluation process. I just found out my best friend came home from work yesterday to an empty house. His wife and 3 step kids moved out, he didn't know it was comming.
 
Ok, I found a problem and I'm seriously thinking about starting over with the valve-train.

The previous owner, who had this engine originally built back in 1989, and changed it to a solid roller had valve train problems and they have continued with me.

It's shimmed under the shafts and running lash caps. The shims on each bank consist of 3 that just have a round hole for the shaft bolt and 1 that has on elongated hole for the bolt and oil passage.

The shim for oiling was on the wrong pedestal. The incorrectly placed shim let enough oil pass during my pre startup inspection to make me think it was oiling enough but the restriction was to great for proper oiling.

This is my theory anyway (for al least part of my problem). My mopar valve-train knowledge is basic at best. At this point I have only checked the left side.

Before (shim restricting oil to shaft) and after moving the open shim to the oiling pedestal.
 

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Yep I think you found the source of irritation. Shame that a few parts are probably beyond reuse, I`m withya, I`d probably want to start over on the valvetrain myself.
Hang in there buddy, You get this thing "right", I believe you`ll have a new luv affair with this car..8)
 
Hay, at least you saved yourself from a catastrophic failure. For that, you should go sit down, relax and crack open a cold one. Or 9.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Hay, at least you saved yourself from a catastrophic failure. For that, you should go sit down, relax and crack open a cold one. Or 9.
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I think he should invite his buddy over for that 12 pack. Good news on the car, bad news for your friend. That's called kidnapping where I live, Amber alert and all.

Are those pushrods done or are they just "seasoned"?
 
Thanks everyone, most likely my final update on this until next time....

I used a round file on the 2 shims that sit on the oiling pedestals. I opened them up to match the opening on the head.

Reinstalled everything (used the slightly damaged parts for testing). Corrected lash.

Ran engine to verify oiling and it's oiling like I believe it should, plenty of oil coming out.


Parts that need to be replaced:
4 pushrods and an adjuster set.

I think going with a bit shorter pushrod would also be something to think about. Now that I have closely watched everything I can see that if the cup is high enough is could lessen the oil it gets.
 
you need to pull the rockers off the shafts and inspect the bearings, both banks
 
Nice to see you averted disaster. Your car is really nice. I would hate for anything like that to happen.
 
Is it just me or does having soft copper shims under the rocker give pause for concern in the future? I can see these perhaps being crushed a bit and spreading if things get hot, or just allowing the rocker shaft to get loose, and oil to get out. Did these torque down normally?

Sounds like your friend is lucky to have you around for some help... THAT had to be a kick in the head....

Edit to add....looks like I am not the only one concerned by this....
 
I'm curious, why are you running the shims? Is it necessary to keep the spring retainers from hitting the bottom side of the rockers?
 
GEO said:
I would think about doing away with the shims and lash caps myself
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Yes, I agree. The valve train needs to be completely redone. This is how it was set up way back in 89/90 when my friend owned the car and it was running high 11s.

It's screwy, that's why I mentioned starting over. I think the valves too long.
 
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