What equipment is needed to spray epoxy primer?

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ESP47

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I'm not having a ton of luck finding the info readily available online. Other than a capable compressor and a gun, is there anything specific needed to spray epoxy at home? I have an RV access on the side of the house that I could put plastic up around. Would this suffice? I want the car to look like a nice driver so a show finish isn't necessary. I've never done anything like this but I need to get this car in primer so I can get to work on it without it rusting every time I try to do any work to it. Thanks.
 
ESP47 said:
I'm not having a ton of luck finding the info readily available online. Other than a capable compressor and a gun, is there anything specific needed to spray epoxy at home? I have an RV access on the side of the house that I could put plastic up around. Would this suffice? I want the car to look like a nice driver so a show finish isn't necessary. I've never done anything like this but I need to get this car in primer so I can get to work on it without it rusting every time I try to do any work to it. Thanks.
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ESP47 said:
I'm not having a ton of luck finding the info readily available online. Other than a capable compressor and a gun, is there anything specific needed to spray epoxy at home? I have an RV access on the side of the house that I could put plastic up around. Would this suffice? I want the car to look like a nice driver so a show finish isn't necessary. I've never done anything like this but I need to get this car in primer so I can get to work on it without it rusting every time I try to do any work to it. Thanks.
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Proper paint mask, some type of venting for the spray area( a box fan will work fine), and the usual other stuff. I would try using at least a 1.8mm needle as primers are thicker than paints. Get some prepsol or equivalent, wipe it down, then follow with a tack rag prior to shooting the primer. Hope this helps.
 
Expoxy is sprayed the same as most other paints. Just follow the spec sheet that comes with the paint. Painted my car and parts at home in a single garage with no issue. Remember to use proper respiratory mask to filter paint fumes.
 
Disclaimer...I am no painter.

In fact the most painting I have done is with rattle cans so I was a bit apprehensive about painting some small parts. I bought ( for better or worse) Lakewood 2 part epoxy primer ( 50 / 50 mix made that part really easy) I bought a cheap high velocity low pressure touch-up gun from harbor freight ( I figured if I messed up the gun i'm out $20.00) I already had a small pancake compressor. I test sprayed a few seconds and went after the part. I cleaned the gun and pored out the excess paint. waited the amount of time per the instructions and put on a second coat. If it hadn't been for the wire of the hanger scratching the surface while it was still wet it turned out perfect. smooth no runs etc. It was about 60 degs out side in the sun so I took the part into the house to finish curing. That's my story. You are painting the entire car so I would assume a larger compressor and a larger gun but I think the process is about the same.

A shop I had my fender repainted at did not have a booth and painted in the open air. not sure what steps they took between coats then clear but it turned out fine for a daily driver I couldn't find any signs of dust etc.

I know the pros are cringing right now. But this is my experience.

Hope it helps.
 
I tried what you are suggesting. I was diagnosed with Chemical pneumonia afterwards

I'm lucky to be alive and have damaged myself permanently. Again..... I am lucky.

Do not mess with V.O.C. paint without a supplied air system. You need a paintsuit to avoid absorption.

If you can smell it. It's causing permanent damage. It ruins your lungs and your brain.

that is all.
 
mgoblue9798 said:
Proper paint mask, some type of venting for the spray area( a box fan will work fine), and the usual other stuff. I would try using at least a 1.8mm needle as primers are thicker than paints. Get some prepsol or equivalent, wipe it down, then follow with a tack rag prior to shooting the primer. Hope this helps.
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self contained breathing apparatus or do not.
 
I'd also recommend buying a gallon of Methyl Ethyl Keytone MEK from lowes to clean out your paint gun when done. And clean it out right away. When that epoxy primer dries, its like concrete.
 
so here is my experience. 1 follow the datasheet for the primer you are using. i just use a cheap hvlp gun (100.00 range) for primer. make sure it has the needle size recommended on the datasheet. I have a 60gal compressor, but i think you could get away with a 40, maybe 30 or so. I dont use fresh air, it was too expensive for just painting a few cars or parts here and there. Primer wont atomize like paints and clears (clear is the worst) i double up filters in my respirator when shooting clear coat. Also remember primer will absorb moistier so dont let it have primer forever. or you will be stripping and re priming before paint. if not you will have rust build underneath and bubble paint.........ask me how i know, lol.

spraying expoxy isnt any different then enamal or urethane just follow the datasheet. and do yourself a favor, get a large body panel, hood or something. to practice on before you actually spray paint or clear. my first full paint job i fought with tiger stripes because i thought i could just jump right in. learning spray distances, how to follow body lines and keeping consistent overlap is the key to a good paintjob. primer this wont be as important cause you will be sanding and finishing it anyways.

hope this helps
 
kris hines said:
so here is my experience. 1 follow the datasheet for the primer you are using. i just use a cheap hvlp gun (100.00 range) for primer. make sure it has the needle size recommended on the datasheet. I have a 60gal compressor, but i think you could get away with a 40, maybe 30 or so. I dont use fresh air, it was too expensive for just painting a few cars or parts here and there. Primer wont atomize like paints and clears (clear is the worst) i double up filters in my respirator when shooting clear coat. Also remember primer will absorb moistier so dont let it have primer forever. or you will be stripping and re priming before paint. if not you will have rust build underneath and bubble paint.........ask me how i know, lol.

spraying expoxy isnt any different then enamal or urethane just follow the datasheet. and do yourself a favor, get a large body panel, hood or something. to practice on before you actually spray paint or clear. my first full paint job i fought with tiger stripes because i thought i could just jump right in. learning spray distances, how to follow body lines and keeping consistent overlap is the key to a good paintjob. primer this wont be as important cause you will be sanding and finishing it anyways.

hope this helps
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Any VOC paint like urethane is listed as "instant threat to life"
one car, or the next car can ruin you or kill you. I learned all about isocyanate poisoning. Read about the union carbide leak in Bophal India. Same chemicals as in these paints

It's your decision, I painted one car and hurt myself, tried my best with off the shelf masks and ventilation...

never ever again.
 
rustyswinger said:
Any VOC paint like urethane is listed as "instant threat to life"
one car, or the next car can ruin you or kill you. I learned all about isocyanate poisoning. Read about the union carbide leak in Bophal India. Same chemicals as in these paints

It's your decision, I painted one car and hurt myself, tried my best with off the shelf masks and ventilation...

never ever again.
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yes i have read all about that. I know what the risk are and as someone else said, if you can smell the paint then your not safe. I always paint with well ventilation in the garage. I use a respirator mask and filter setup for painting. If i smell chemicals i stop. And yes, i learned the hard way, thinking i didnt need to have a draw setup for the fumes..........
 
Thanks guys it sounds like I'll have to look into respirators for this project. I have a decent 3M one but it may not be enough by the sound of it.

The cheap guns and all that are really good advice so I don't end up over spending.

What about water separators and all that for the compressor? I've never sprayed anything with the compressor so I'm not sure what I'll need for that. I don't plan on painting and clearing the car but I would like to get it epoxied. I figure I'll do a panel or two at a time at first to get the hang of it and then go from there.
 
I used those organic vapour respirators too. A good quality forced air downdraft vent would help. I'll personally never open a can of that poison again. Not even to mix or check color
 
ESP47 said:
Thanks guys it sounds like I'll have to look into respirators for this project. I have a decent 3M one but it may not be enough by the sound of it.

The cheap guns and all that are really good advice so I don't end up over spending.

What about water separators and all that for the compressor? I've never sprayed anything with the compressor so I'm not sure what I'll need for that. I don't plan on painting and clearing the car but I would like to get it epoxied. I figure I'll do a panel or two at a time at first to get the hang of it and then go from there.
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What kind of compressor do you have? If it's undersized, it may not keep up if you're planning to spray the whole car. There's nothing wrong with doing it one panel at a time though.
 
mopowers said:
What kind of compressor do you have? If it's undersized, it may not keep up if you're planning to spray the whole car. There's nothing wrong with doing it one panel at a time though.
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I'm not sure off the top off my head. It's one of the Husky compressors that stand about 4ft tall. I'd say it's probably a 20gal? I also have an old school home made one that my grandpa made down on the railroad that's probably even better at 30gal or so.

If I do it, i'll probably do the separate panels two at a time at first and then finish the roof/quarters at the end in one swoop. Think I'll have enough compressor for that?
 
Either compressor will work. If you want more volume you can tee the two tanks and run one motor. For just shooting some primer you can get by with a disposable inline dryer snake. Also loop your hose off the ceiling to get some water to drain back to the tank before it hits the snake.

Since all you really want to do is shoot epoxy do it outside. Who cares about bugs, dust, ect. It's gotta be sanded, shot with high build, and blocked anyway.
 
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Guns don't really make a painter. You can find and use a fairly cheap paint gun for spraying epoxy. As stated before read the p (product) sheet for everything you spray. Most people don't know that the isocyanates that are in automotive products are absorbed through your eyes and cuticles. Wear nitrile gloves for sure. Using a hood that covers your face is going to be supplied air or a backpack that you wear and not something a hobbiest is going to be able to afford. Just make sure where you spray it you just have plenty of ventilation. Keeping moisture out of the paint gun is critical to allowing the epoxy to do what it's supposed to do. Drain your compressor tank and plumb it if possible to let moisture run back into the tank. A cheap inline filter and regulator with desiccant will also help.
 
protect your eyes and skin, they will absorb these nasty chemicals. Problem is everyone has different levels of "sensitivity" to these deadly chemicals. Some people didn't realize this before they died. Not trying to get any panties in a wad but realize all this.

I use some primers out of Calif. from TCP Global, less VOC. A fresh air suit is a good investment. I should had bought one years ago.
 
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